dead right spring I used to pick up a few on the black beech track between the HQ and the motor camp- they would be on their way down to the big flat alongside the road
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dead right spring I used to pick up a few on the black beech track between the HQ and the motor camp- they would be on their way down to the big flat alongside the road
Technically you can't use any second hand materials if you are building to the Code
Because second hand materials can't meet the requirement for lasting 50 years
This rule seems to depend on where you liveQuote:
Originally Posted by akaroa1
Technically it's second hand the moment it leaves the forest haha. They hate that argument...Quote:
Originally Posted by akaroa1
I'd add half the materials can't last 50 years anyway.
This stupidity drove us insane, as the quality of the crap coming off the Mitre10 racks was way inferior to the slow growth doug fir 6x2s we had stashed. But no, it doesn't have the pink wiggly line on it. Then came the argument about our Universal beam portals. 30 year old Aussie made universal beams with no rust, but no...can only use cheap chinese steel beams where you can almost see the backed bean cans in the metal..... Grrrr!Quote:
Originally Posted by akaroa1
Stupidity reigns supreme!Quote:
Originally Posted by XR500
Yep. The quality of the SG8 I got during Covid was an embarrassment. It was so wet that when you hit a nail it sprayed at you. I had to leave it for about 7 weeks to dry off, and then pick my cuts to get a relatively straight bit with no knots in it! When I drove home with it on the trailer I had a bunch of sparrows chasing me to fight me to get their house back. One piece I dropped and it broke at a knot. A bloody joke!
Not entirely correct, you can still meet minimum durability requirements with secondhand materials, but expect to jump through hoops with your local consenting authority.Quote:
Originally Posted by akaroa1
It doesn't sound as though this project needs to be consented and suggest you probably don't anyway. For example, the recent changes to H1 standards will add tens of thousands of dollars to an average build. I.E windows are roughly twice the price they were prior to the change, then you need a minimum 6-inch stud thickness in most cases to get enough insulation into the walls regardless of structural considerations, etc, etc.
Besides the IRD the biggest gang in NZ is undoubtably BRANZ.
Yeah I've heard that it's a crock. Arguably the changes won't actually have that greater effect in a lot of areas, as we found with topping up the insulation in our place - it's costing us more power each year as we are using the fireplace less so without the wetback we are using more power for water heating. Go figure... We also now have a problem that we aren't using the wood we are generating each year!!!
For the 'hut' I'm kinda thinking at the moment that the plan will be to make 'modules' that fit the tandem trailer, and roll them down to site fully ready to drop onto whatever it needs. A couple for bedrooms, one ablutions and a kitchen and then connect with a space for eating, resting and storing stuff.
sounds like a good plan big verandah and outside fire place cooking area a must have nothing like sitting back with a beer while the snags cookQuote:
Originally Posted by No.3
The 50 year life expectancy thing still cracks me up to this day.
One of the last jobs i did back in blighty was on a building that was one of Henry the 8ths hunting lodges, and still standing in mostly its original form.
50 years is the blink of an eye in real terms
I'm restoring an 1873 house in Akaroa at the moment and most of what I'm redoing are repairs from 2000 !Quote:
Originally Posted by Pengy
Yes the 50 years and Branz are a total joke.
But as an LBP it's the joke we have too live with.
The cost and agrivation in trying to use second hand and non approved materials in a compliant build is out of proportion to the potential savings
The 50 years is a design requirement relating to the structural integrity, it does not necessarily mean that all materials used must last the 50-year life span.
Ply cladding for example only has to meet a 15-year life expectantly.
We're getting a bit of topic here though.
Yeah, but an interesting diversion nonetheless. The interesting one is the SG8 framing as I mentioned earlier - if you were being anal about it you'd have to open each packet at the yard, comb through it piece by piece and I'm sure you'd fail 50% out of some packets. The chunk I dropped and it snapped in half at the knot, the knot was about 80% of the area of the timber. No way in hell that that meets SG8 structural framing requirements, even with a blind deaf mute amputee doing the QC'ing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayden C
I should add to this that BRANZ is the single controlling authority in NZ when it comes to 'approving' building materials in this country.
In my view they actually exacerbate the problem of being able to provide affordable housing in this country.
A classic example is GIB, there are no feasible or cost effective alternatives and the current building code is heavily geared towards its use as a bracing element. When you have monopoly on the market and competitors are restricted due to the cost prohibitive nature of the BRANZ approval process guess what happens to the price.....
Now we are way off topic lol
80%= fire work offcuts.
GIB as a bracing element - yeah um ok to that. I dropped a sheet of braceline a while back accidentally, it performed the same as gib standard when dropped. Buggered if I know what it would add to anything if it had the shite shaken out of it, the one I dropped crumpled nicely (fortunately we still got the roughly half a sheet out of it we needed to complete the little pricky bit we had to fill in - ran out of standard haha). 12mm ply with a facing of some sort would far outperform it and probably allow you to reduce the framing amount going in behind it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayden C
Very very briefly, if your building 'to code' then your bracing is achieved by the internal linings, exterior cladding etc is not considered to contribute towards bracing elements. GIB is basically the starting point, if you can't get the required bracing then you'd swap it out for GIB Braceline, then Ply. After that then you're beyond the realm of the NZBC and need an Engineer as it becomes specific design.Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
P.S GIB behaves very differently when fixed correctly as opposed to being dropped on the floor....
Have a good read of 3604 for stud spacing requirements etc and how they are calculated.
Back on topic.
https://www.kenneallytimber.co.nz/
These guys are good for materials. They often have nonstructural timber and/or reject ply at reasonable prices if you go that way.
This kitset came from Levin.
@Brian being a builder made it all straight forward. 2 built in bunks, table, bench. Pot belly. Storage.
Attachment 275429
Attachment 275430
Attachment 275431
Good to see you back on the forum Tahr.
@Rushy home yesterday.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rushy
ExcellentQuote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
[QUOTE=Hayden C;1687114]P.S GIB behaves very differently when fixed correctly as opposed to being dropped on the floor.... /QUOTE]
Yes, but breaking into pieces? GIB Standard behaves better than that when dropped on one corner. You usually lose about 150mm in either way, not literally breaking into pieces like the Braceline did. It got a raised eyebrow all around, as it would have been much lower forces than it would experience in a big jolt and flex in line with the wall.
More than likely the internal linings as it is in my head at the moment will be ply or somesuch - we are not talking a large span wall if it's going to be prefabbed then broken back down to a kitset for transport so in reality the 3604 span calculations will be limited in application. Going for ply will ensure it won't fail and crack or suffer compression or impact damage in transit. What will be the driving force as far as design is use of the sheet sizes, ensuring that the sheets have sufficient support with correct fastening locations. From the cursory glance through 3604 that will ensure we are well within requirements for 'code'.
Good prices, wrong island (again).Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayden C
What's access at the site like?
Could you get a hiab truck to the site?
Is the site sheltered or windy?
Does anyone overlook the site or can it not be legally seen by any other neighbouring property users?
Non-builders seem to think that those in the construction industry are jealous guardians of some secret portal through which magically low prices and golden deals can be accessed
In reality, short cuts save maybe 10% and end up costing 200%
If you have space I'd start stockpiling materials now, treated ply, windows, etc
I'd build it so that it could be removed in the future because things change and nothing lasts forever - ie make it into a truckable shape say 2.5 by 6m container footprint
You could build it on skids and still bolt those skids to piles/poles in a high wind zone, just tape and grease the bolts
Also if truck access is an option, look for 2nd hand freezerpanel work site sheds on TardMe - grotty ones can be cheap
If you are doing it in sections I'd make the frames butt up to each other then use 100mm tek screws from each side to lock them together, that way you could conceivably undo the sections in the future, likewise screw cladding over the join on the outside and screw ply over the interior join
Speaking as an LBP I would recommend not telling council or any regulatory authority and just building the damn thing - it's a hunting hut FFS
also +1 on avoiding all James Hardie products now and for ever more - these are the same scumfucks who reincorporated their company overseas to avoid being sued for mesothalmia (sp?) and asbestosis claims by their previous workers
A bunch of lawyers flogging building products - nuff said
Yep my thoughts too...
Access is very basic at this point, 4x4 is about it. It's a bare block after all... As I understand it, pick of the places for siting so can select a sheltered option.
Early sun,radio/phone reception,a view over productive ground,water supply might also be points to consider when finding site.
Greetings All,
I was glad to see NZS 3604 mentioned as it is an excellent guide for the basic building construction. It is the weather tightness of buildings that seems to trip people up, namely lack of adequate flashings around windows and at changes in roof pitch, inadequate roof pitch for the material used and not carrying the cladding down far enough to form a drip to protect the subfloor framing and stop water penetration from capillary action and many others. Regrettably I see all of these in the posted photos. I am not getting at anyone here but just stressing the need to get some advice with some sketched of details for cladding before getting started on the project.
Regards Grandpamac
Yey, yep. All good advice again...
The BRANZ House Building Guide has lots of sketched details for how to do these sort of things - this one is 18 bucks or soQuote:
Originally Posted by grandpamac
https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketpl...ing/5318262776
just build one what could go wrong just make sure it needs 4x4 to get to
I love your wind chimes @TahrQuote:
Originally Posted by Tahr
This is a document I was trying to remember. Overkill for a hut, but even browsing the table of contents gives you some good points to think about. Might be useful if you are doing it all yourself.
https://www.building.govt.nz/assets/...st-edition.pdf
