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Thread: Gun Smith - top of SI

  1. #1
    Member Sarvo's Avatar
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    Gun Smith - top of SI

    Does anyone know of a Gun Smith or someone capable of doing a recoil pad fit onto a wooden stock Baikal
    Tried myself and cocked up 1st one
    Have the recoil pad (new one) but want it done professionally this time
    I live Marlborough - but can go Nelson way too

    Thanks in advance
    Peter

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  2. #2
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    leave it slightly oversized..... freeze and grind is the proper method I believe... you should be able to do it just remember measure twice and cut once....in my case measure three times.

  3. #3
    Member Sarvo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    leave it slightly oversized..... freeze and grind is the proper method I believe... you should be able to do it just remember measure twice and cut once....in my case measure three times.
    No - tried it once and ruined one recoil pad already
    Woolshed emery grinder will do the job - but really need to make a jig/blank encase hit the stock
    Also not easy getting the level (or comb) correct angle off top and bottom of pad to match angle of stock

    Happy yo pay an expert

  4. #4
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    for what its worth a slip on pad works just as well.....thats what goes on mine lol.

  5. #5
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    oh and you already have pattern...use the hard buttplate that you took off it. mark it out on replacement and go from there....or courier it down to Robbie and team in chch.

  6. #6
    MSL
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    Definitely donít grind it while itís still attached, haha.

  7. #7
    Member Sarvo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    for what its worth a slip on pad works just as well.....thats what goes on mine lol.
    Yes - got one of those - but this Baikal is very small butt end
    Have a China knock off coming via Free Shipping (so prob get it after Roar)
    They are good - but this little rifle deserves better

  8. #8
    Member Sarvo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSL View Post
    Definitely don’t grind it while it’s still attached, haha.
    No
    I did the 1st one clamped onto the old one that had the hard plate still attached, but cocked up the top and bottom angle/line off stock

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    Dave Ward, ph 03 543 3777, of Dovedale Road, Nelson.
    veitnamcam, Shearer and rockland like this.

  10. #10
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nor-west View Post
    Dave Ward, ph 03 543 3777, of Dovedale Road, Nelson.
    Wakefield, Nelson
    Rule 3: Load a firearm only when ready to fire

    Chicken Intolerant.

  11. #11
    Member Sarvo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Micky Duck View Post
    oh and you already have pattern...use the hard buttplate that you took off it. mark it out on replacement and go from there....or courier it down to Robbie and team in chch.
    I wanted Robbie to do it when they did the SUP last month - but she said Robbie sick and not doing pads ???
    Bit odd ah ?

  12. #12
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    put it on the rifle and mark pad with a pen held against the stock this will give you a start cut that will allow some leeway remove from stock and do your rough cut then reattach to stock and wrap a layer of pvc tape 2 or 3 widths wide onto stock then a layer of masking tape over it now use an orbital sander with stock held in a clamp or vice so you can look down onto stock and keep sander on the same line as stock .rotate stock around as you do each side then do the top and heel as soon as you touch masking tape remove and put on new layer once down to same level as masking tape remove it and use finer grade sandpaper till same level as pvc tape once down to pvc tape slightly angle sander so you can take a little bit more off with out touching tape about 1mm then just do a light cut with sander more following contour but keep edge of sander just off edge of wood or you can remove from stock and just finish on a bench sander by colouring the pad with ink and just removing enough to get rid of the ink.you can also use a rasp file to do the first cut

  13. #13
    Member Sarvo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by veitnamcam View Post
    Wakefield, Nelson
    Thanks @nor-west and @veitnamcam
    I thought there was a local - just got that sleeping bag thanks to @StrikerNZ and its in Nelson too
    Had an offer already from a Forum Member to do it - but needs to be sent Waikato and he's a busy working boy and needs more time to practice with his 30-30 - so I thank him immensely (cheers Derek) but will give Dave in Wakefield a bell tomorrow
    Last edited by Sarvo; 04-03-2018 at 02:32 PM.

  14. #14
    Member mikee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarvo View Post
    Thanks @nor-west and @veitnamcam
    I thought there was a local - just got that sleeping bag thanks to @StrikerNZ and its in Nelson too
    Had an offer already from a Forum Member to do it - but needs to be sent Waikato and he's a busy working boy and needs more time to practice with his 30-30 - so I thank him immensely (cheers Derek) but will give Dave in Wakefield a bell tomorrow
    Let me know if you are coming this way, I have something for ya too

  15. #15
    Member Sarvo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by berg243 View Post
    put it on the rifle and mark pad with a pen held against the stock this will give you a start cut that will allow some leeway remove from stock and do your rough cut then reattach to stock and wrap a layer of pvc tape 2 or 3 widths wide onto stock then a layer of masking tape over it now use an orbital sander with stock held in a clamp or vice so you can look down onto stock and keep sander on the same line as stock .rotate stock around as you do each side then do the top and heel as soon as you touch masking tape remove and put on new layer once down to same level as masking tape remove it and use finer grade sandpaper till same level as pvc tape once down to pvc tape slightly angle sander so you can take a little bit more off with out touching tape about 1mm then just do a light cut with sander more following contour but keep edge of sander just off edge of wood or you can remove from stock and just finish on a bench sander by colouring the pad with ink and just removing enough to get rid of the ink.you can also use a rasp file to do the first cut
    I would have tried that way if had a belt sander.
    I did as above clamped onto old pad plate and used a buffer pad on angle grinder which did a fine/smooth finish to pad
    But as I said - the angle/line off the stock top and bottom is a trick for me without taking huge risk (to me anyways) of leaving attached to stock and slipping and guaging into the lovely grained wood of Baikal
    No - I will get Gunsmith Nelson to do it
    Throw another Goldfish to the cat - as we say

    Those buffer pads are bloody great for buffing up old knives/machetes/meat clevers etc
    Polish up like new !!

 

 

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