Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Create Account now to join.
  • Login:

Welcome to the NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums.

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.

DPT Black Watch


User Tag List

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 45
Like Tree7Likes

Thread: Knife projects Handles/restoration

  1. #1
    Member Raging Bull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    843

    Knife projects Handles/restoration

    Follow up on the bird & trout knife blank thread. However, I now have two projects. I have a few questions, see below. Any help/tips would be greatly appreciated.

    Original thread: http://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co.n...e-blanks-1849/


    Project 1. Bird & trout / small game knife

    Knife blank: Have spoken with the forum sponsor (Zedteq), I will get the blank made, as I’m not set up and/or don’t have the confidence to make a knife from scratch just yet.
    Proposed handle material: antler scales / epoxied leather (between steel and antler)
    Pins: Stainless
    Guard/bolster: Stainless

    I’ve got as far as making a wooden prototype to check sizing, next step will be to get a knife blank made.

    The prototype w/ cut scales in foreground.



    Wooden prototype next to the docking knife, handle materials in foreground.



    The pins I found today, I think they are stainless (anyone know how to check?)



    The epoxy I bought today, it was recommended to me by a guy at Mitre 10... hopefully he knows what he was talking about.



    Proposed method (once blank is made/hardened and stainless bolster is installed):

    Once antler scales have been leveled/dried…

    I plan to drill holes through leather an antler (lined up with guide holes through steel knife blank), cover leather and both sides of the steel, pin all the handle materials together and clamp for 24-48 hours.

    Machine grind & sand to rough shape and then continue to sand/file by hand. I have been thinking of getting a Dremel? Does anyone use one?

    Is there any tips/tricks into getting a tight fit?

    I’m also a little concerned in regards to the antler I chose to use. In the end I chose to cut the scales from a Ruahine red (cast) which has a fair bit of pith, unlike the Sambar antler I was originally going to use. Is there any compound that I could use that will look like antler/bone if all does not go to plan?



    Project 2. Re-handle a Sabatier Chefs knife (my favourite)

    Old handle (problem): cracked/rivets broken
    Proposed new handle material: Ebony
    Pins: Stainless

    The problem (handle material/rivets are cracked and broken).



    New handle material (ebony – it is very dense).



    The knife.



    Is this just a simple task of removing the old scales and shaping fitting the ebony scales to match? I’m worried I wont get a tight fit, I can see it has started to rust a bit where the handle has cracked, is there a way to clean this without making it the steel look shiny/new again. Tips/ help would be appreciated.


    Also, some of you may be interested.

    I was given a fair bit of Perspex/plastic in a few colours a few weeks back (from my brother, an industrial designer). If any of you are interested, I’m happy to cut up a few sections for you to use on your own knife making/projects).

    The selection.




    Cheers,

    Raging Bull
    Last edited by Raging Bull; 26-06-2012 at 07:30 PM.

  2. #2
    Member john worthington's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    clyde
    Posts
    244
    hi raging bull i would use 5 minute epoxy and glue the stag to the handle [no leather which will absorb water ]and drill the holes using the tang as a guide and then glue the other side on and drill through the handle .im not sure if you have ebony it does not look black enough to me it may be Madagascan ebony which is lighter my ebony is jet black .the handle of your sabatier is held on with cutlers rivets if you want some pm me your address and i will send you some . the best way of removing the handle is to cut it of with a hacksaw just down beside the tang on both sides and punch out the leftovers .i would grind the rust of the tang and then fit the new scales with a good epoxy and put the rivets in when it has set ,leave the scales oversize and file and sand them to a neat fit after .this will leave the tang shiny but rub it with a lemon a few times and it will restore the patina.hope this helps
    cheers john
    Raging Bull likes this.

  3. #3
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Nelson
    Posts
    20,145
    A good grunty magnet will only be slightly attracted to 316 s/s
    Raging Bull likes this.
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

  4. #4
    Member Raging Bull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    843
    Quote Originally Posted by john worthington View Post
    hi raging bull i would use 5 minute epoxy and glue the stag to the handle [no leather which will absorb water ]and drill the holes using the tang as a guide and then glue the other side on and drill through the handle .im not sure if you have ebony it does not look black enough to me it may be Madagascan ebony which is lighter my ebony is jet black .the handle of your sabatier is held on with cutlers rivets if you want some pm me your address and i will send you some . the best way of removing the handle is to cut it of with a hacksaw just down beside the tang on both sides and punch out the leftovers .i would grind the rust of the tang and then fit the new scales with a good epoxy and put the rivets in when it has set ,leave the scales oversize and file and sand them to a neat fit after .this will leave the tang shiny but rub it with a lemon a few times and it will restore the patina.hope this helps
    cheers john
    Hi John,

    Thank you for your recommendations an advice on fitting the handles.

    The whole idea with the leather was to have black spacers between the tang and antler scales, purely for aesthetics. Will have to rethink that, would thin (1-2mm) Perspex be okay?

    I think your correct re: ebony, it is a lot darker than in the pictures. Having looked at photos on google I think it could be the Madagascan ebony.

    I will flick you a pm re: cutlers rivets.

    Cheers,

    Vincent (Raging Bull)

  5. #5
    Member Raging Bull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    843
    Quote Originally Posted by veitnamcam View Post
    A good grunty magnet will only be slightly attracted to 316 s/s
    Interesting. I will test them tomorrow.

    Cheers.

  6. #6
    Member john worthington's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    clyde
    Posts
    244
    perspex will be fine as a spacer
    cheers john

  7. #7
    Member Raging Bull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    843
    Sabatier Chef knife - Handle removed, will clean it up later today.



    Out of curiosity I cut some Sambar scales today to compare them to the red deer scales I had already cut.

    I can certainly see why knife makers prefer to use Sambar antler (these are just rough cut, not leveled/flattened yet).

    Sambar scales (left) / Red scales (right)




    Sambar scales (left) / Red scales (right)


  8. #8
    Member RimfireNZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    553
    Hey Raging Bull,
    Good idea getting a knife blank made up. How much will that set you back? I'm getting my old man to cut me a couple of templates out of some hard 3mm plate to have a crack on. I'll probably balls it up so might be better if I can design my own knife and get someone else to make the steel.

    Just a question about the leather you mention, does that go in between the antler handle and the blank? You have to pin that all together? That solves the problem I was thinking of of trying to get the handle timber and the steel to match perfectly in flatness. [EDIT] Just read you're going to use perspex instead of leather.

    Very keen to see how this turns out. Keep us posted.
    Last edited by RimfireNZ; 27-06-2012 at 01:33 PM.

  9. #9
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Wellington
    Posts
    289
    Ha did you get those stainless lengths from a photocopier tech?
    I've a pile of them laying around - and they look very similar!

  10. #10
    Member Raging Bull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    843
    Quote Originally Posted by RimfireNZ View Post
    Hey Raging Bull,
    Good idea getting a knife blank made up. How much will that set you back? I'm getting my old man to cut me a couple of templates out of some hard 3mm plate to have a crack on. I'll probably balls it up so might be better if I can design my own knife and get someone else to make the steel.

    Just a question about the leather you mention, does that go in between the antler handle and the blank? You have to pin that all together? That solves the problem I was thinking of of trying to get the handle timber and the steel to match perfectly in flatness. [EDIT] Just read you're going to use perspex instead of leather.

    Very keen to see how this turns out. Keep us posted.

    Hi Rimfire NZ,

    Yeah, I've been thinking of getting a few blanks cut for a while now, was going to get the water cut through a local agent but he seems to have closed down now. For this particular blank its $60, but thats finished/drilled (not just the shape).

    I've got a bit of steel lying around, but I don't know how to tell if its any good for knife making. For example: these two pieces, the thinnest piece is about 6mm thick.



    I still might go with the leather if I can work out a way to seal it / block moisture from entering the knife handle and rusting it.

    Lesson for day 1 - always ALWAYS tape and/or wrap the blade your working on, the bastards things are sharp.

    Cheers.
    Last edited by Raging Bull; 28-06-2012 at 09:20 PM.

  11. #11
    Member Raging Bull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    843
    Quote Originally Posted by thejavelin View Post
    Ha did you get those stainless lengths from a photocopier tech?
    I've a pile of them laying around - and they look very similar!
    To be honest I have no idea, quite possibly, they were amongst of box of stuff from my brother (a former Industrial design student).

  12. #12
    Member Raging Bull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    843
    My bird & trout blank (s) turned up last week from Darren (Zedteq knives New Zealand).

    Darren made them to my specs/design, keeping me in the loop from start to finish. I'm very pleased with them.

    Steel: Recycled L6 high carbon steel
    Grind: Hollow grind
    Rockwell hardness: C58-60
    Finish: 180 grit / drilled



    I will be using 316 Stainless flat bar/pins for the bolsters and Sambar antler scales for one of the handles and a hard wood (yet to be chosen) for the other.

    Re: The chefs knife update - the rust has been removed (sanded/filed), bolster edges are in the process of being flattened to accommodate the Madagascan ebony scales. Will hopefully get in finished in the next week or two.

  13. #13
    Member Pop Shot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Rangitikei
    Posts
    981
    Don't be a pussy - use em like that - you don't need a fancy little handle.

    Looking good - I will blood them for you when finished if you want?

  14. #14
    Member RimfireNZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    553
    Hey RB,
    Those blanks look good. How much did that set you back?

    That might be an easier start than trying to make the knife and everything myself. I'm still waiting for the old man to cut me my templates out of some steel he's got at work.

  15. #15
    Member Raging Bull's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    843
    Quote Originally Posted by RimfireNZ View Post
    Hey RB,
    Those blanks look good. How much did that set you back?

    That might be an easier start than trying to make the knife and everything myself. I'm still waiting for the old man to cut me my templates out of some steel he's got at work.
    Pm sent.

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. Centrefire rifles wanted for projects
    By jim160 in forum Buy, Sell or Swap
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 31-08-2012, 09:37 PM
  2. Antler handled knife
    By kimjon in forum Projects and Home Builds
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 26-06-2012, 06:16 PM
  3. Projects section
    By mudgripz in forum Questions, Comments, Suggestions, Testing.
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 18-03-2012, 10:14 PM
  4. WTS: Kershaw knife
    By keen fella in forum Buy, Sell or Swap
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 11-03-2012, 10:30 AM
  5. Knife Sharping setups
    By crzyman in forum Gear and Equipment
    Replies: 38
    Last Post: 17-12-2011, 11:59 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Welcome to NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums! We see you're new here, or arn't logged in. Create an account, and Login for full access including our FREE BUY and SELL section Register NOW!!