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Thread: Mauser M96 safety mod

  1. #1
    Member stretch's Avatar
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    Mauser M96 safety mod

    Mounting a scope with low rings on my Mauser meant that I could no longer apply the safety, as the safety lever is blocked by the scope. Solution was to buy one of these Timney low profile safeties. https://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...prod13149.aspx

    When compared to the original, I noticed some dimensional differences. Enough that the new part doesn't fit.

    The safety sits a few thou back from the bolt head, whereas the original sits flush. I have traced this to the point where the head of the safety meets the safety shaft. The original is machined square, while the new one has a small radius. I can think of two possible solutions.

    Option 1. Put the new safety in the lathe and get rid of the small radius, allowing the safety to sit flush and be assembled completely.
    Option 2. Countersink the hole in the bolt head where the shaft of the safety goes, making room for the small radius.

    How hard are these metals and what issues am I likely to have with each option?

    Option 1 leaves the original bolt head as is, but has me machining a smaller thinner part, and potentially breaking it.

    Option 2 has more room for error, but messes with 100-year-old steel. Not concerned about keeping things original - it's a non-matching sporterised Mauser.

    Is there an option 3?







    Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    Member stretch's Avatar
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    Countersunk. That has accommodated the radius and closed the gap, but there is still the overlap in the first image above. More work required.

    takbok likes this.

  3. #3
    Member Marty Henry's Avatar
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    I see they say for 96s grinding of the cocking piece may be required are the dimensions of both the same in all other aspects and how big is the gap.

  4. #4
    Member FRST's Avatar
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    I see the safety wing on the Beuhler is screwed onto the shaft- could you cut the safety wing off the original shaft in a way that allows you to install the new one on?

  5. #5
    Member Sideshow's Avatar
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    @gundoc I'd be weary of grinding these as you may affect the hardness
    It's all fun and games till Darthvader comes along
    I respect your beliefs but don't impose them on me.

  6. #6
    Member FRST's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sideshow View Post
    @gundoc I'd be weary of grinding these as you may affect the hardness
    It may do, but could you explain why that would matter on this part?

  7. #7
    Member Sideshow's Avatar
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    Not the expert that's why I stuck gundocs name on it.
    Can you mill the new safety and leave the bolt alone?
    It's all fun and games till Darthvader comes along
    I respect your beliefs but don't impose them on me.

  8. #8
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    I have an m 98 and I can't lock the bolt and trigger on it. But it goes up enough to lock the trigger and keep the bolt free to move which annoys the crap out of me. Lost a round that way.

    Does yours still work on the second stage or are they different.?

    Sent from my TA-1024 using Tapatalk

  9. #9
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    Countersinking is the correct method for getting the safety head flush. All other fitting adjustments to get the safety to work properly should be on the safety, not the bolt components. Mark binding areas with engineers blue (or felt pen) and gently remove metal until you get the desired result. Fit frequently to avoid removing too much metal in one go. The safety works by camming the striker back slightly away from the sear, and the shaft also locks the bolt closed.
    stretch and csmiffy like this.

  10. #10
    Member stretch's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone. Iíll dig out the dremel later and massage the safety lever into place.

  11. #11
    Member stretch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russian 22. View Post
    I have an m 98 and I can't lock the bolt and trigger on it. But it goes up enough to lock the trigger and keep the bolt free to move which annoys the crap out of me. Lost a round that way.

    Does yours still work on the second stage or are they different.?

    Sent from my TA-1024 using Tapatalk
    Mine still works on both stages. Have you figured out what is wrong with yours?

  12. #12
    Member stretch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Henry View Post
    I see they say for 96s grinding of the cocking piece may be required are the dimensions of both the same in all other aspects and how big is the gap.
    Itís about 10 thou. I think the cocking piece is going to need to be ground so that it doesnít hit he head of the screw on the new safety when uncocked, and upon firing.

  13. #13
    Ex stick thrower madjon_'s Avatar
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    Option 3.I cut the original leaver lower,to clear the scope.fiddly,most times cause it's cock on close I just used halfbolt al la 303.
    Real guns start with the number 3 or bigger and make two holes, one in and one out." -

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by stretch View Post
    Mine still works on both stages. Have you figured out what is wrong with yours?
    Scope is in the way lol. If I changed the scope base then I can use it on the 3rd stage. But it's been drilled and tapped with not much room left for any adjustments.

    Sent from my TA-1024 using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    Member scotty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russian 22. View Post
    Scope is in the way lol. If I changed the scope base then I can use it on the 3rd stage. But it's been drilled and tapped with not much room left for any adjustments.

    Sent from my TA-1024 using Tapatalk
    yours is a one piece redfield base good quality base ..... the bolt on yours is the same as mine (typical miitary m98) i put a low swing safety on mine which you can buy from outdoor supplies to fix your issue can be done without the aid of a gunsmith they are different to the m96. you just have to make sure you get your head around stripping the bolt correctly . you will have to remove the scope to do it as you need the safety on (upright ) and its good to know how to strip the bolt for cleaning anyway.
    Russian 22. likes this.

 

 

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