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@gadgetman and any other electronic knowledge folk..... would / could this be the beginning of a case annealing machine ? (Add timer, power supply, case holder.....)
20A 1000W ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Board Module Flyback Driver Heater
20A 1000W ZVS Low Voltage Induction Heating Board Module Flyback Driver Heater-in Smart Remote Control from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
(from AliExpress Android)
@mikee has put one together.
@Beaker, I’ve got one of those. Project has stalled. You can have it if you like. Lots of good info here.
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/thr...redux.3908353/
Thanks for the offer - but all it will do is shift the location of said stalled parts...... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch
I was just looking on aliexpress for a few fishing/boat things and it popped up. Maybe of interest to someone with time etc...
That thread is full of good info to.
I think an Arduino to control it and maybe a vehicle central locking mechanism to work the trap door. Most expensive bit will be the power supply.
I would be keen on a go. Wish there was a simple way to mod my $50 Kmart induction burner to make it higher frequency and work with brass. That way you could do about 40 at once.
I'll buy one from you. Don't care on what it looks likes - function over form.Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
Just make it work, and little effort from me. :)
I'll buy one from you. Don't care on what it looks likes - function over form.Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
Just make it work, and little effort from me. :)
Oops. Seems a few bits are on the way.
ok, basically its a beat frequency oscillator connected to a power supply and a coil. no 300calman. you cant do 40 at a hit as the neck needs to be surrounded 360 deg.
big issue is that this is an electromagnetic device. different metals will be affected differently so the mix of copper and zinc to make the brass is one issue, then how much nickel is added and/or plated on.
i'm new to the reloading issue but when it comes down to magnetic induction i'm pretty ok.
whats posted will work, but its going to be a whole lot of possibly dangerous trial and error to make it work
I can remember being in the power electronics lab with a guy trying to make the first switch mode welder. A couple of times a week a $50 semiconductor would explode and send molten bits 2-3m across the bench.Quote:
Originally Posted by gonetropo
This is why the A.M.P. costs what it does. He’s done all that trial and error and documented the minimum annealing needed to achieve the required softness, and programmed all that into the machine. Look up your cal and brand of brass and away you go.
ahh gadget wait till you see selenium diode ignite, its like the ultimate dog fart from hell
a very toxic dog fartQuote:
Originally Posted by gonetropo
Good on him, nice machine and if I had 10,000 brass or more to anneal I would get one. I don't really need one, just want one to play with.Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch
How much are they? And do they do a auto feed?Quote:
Originally Posted by 300CALMAN
We (a few jaffa's ) could go shares? Buy your own calibre bits.
I don't need one all the time, but would like some brass done.
@Beaker for some reason (maybe unfairly) for this price i expect autofeed like this:
https://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...prod97922.aspx
I know flame isn't as cool as induction well in my geeky world anyway but if I am going to pay that much I want automation.
Got some bits rolling in. Might go for a smaller radiator. They're pretty cheap.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4374c0430c.jpg
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That's cute will it cope?Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
That radiator is massive overkill. Will have a 120mm computer fan mounted on it to cool the liquid in the coil and the electronics.Quote:
Originally Posted by 300CALMAN
overkill is good.Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
Which circuit/coil did you order?
The one from the original link.Quote:
Originally Posted by 300CALMAN
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/20A-...311.0.0.sd7CG6
I can always make a new coil. Plenty of copper tube here from trailer brakes and things.
And pump the water (or glycol) or just convection?Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
Will likely use your typical auto cooling system liquid. Want to try just convection but have pumps just in case.Quote:
Originally Posted by 300CALMAN
I bet your garage looks just like mine. Lots of "in case" stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
I bet your garage looks just like mine. Lots of "in case" stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
mine was somewhat more 'agricultural" compared to yours but was really a proof of concept with what was lying round my bench and 5 bored minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
Never went any further than that for now anyway
https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....504_141554.jpg
Sure is, and always grabbing that just in case gear.Quote:
Originally Posted by 300CALMAN
If air-wound coils don't do what is required then a gapped ferrite core will help and allow for a lower input power. Brass' good conductivity is a problem for inductive heating. The trick for this and uniformity is to have a coil that concentrates the flux on the shoulders. The neck is easier to heat as it has shorter current paths, a lower mass of material than the shoulders and walls, and heat can only conduct out of the neck in one direction. Necks will keep up temperature-wise with the shoulders with much less input. Then the field also needs to drop away rapidly in the other direction to minimize heating in the case walls so the heating down towards the head only gets there via conduction.
Thanks @Puffin The magnet gap is also quite a nice reference point for the case head to assure repeated alignment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Puffin
Finally have the majority of components so will start building shortly.
I have all of the components except for smaller items like on off switches, tubing for the water-cooling and a relay that is strong enough to break 30V DC. I made things slightly more difficult for myself as I purchased a 12V dc timer instead of the 240v AC one, I wanted to run 240V in and everything run off 24V-48V So only having to worry about 240V once. Benefit of AC is it drops do 0V every cycle so the arc automatically gets suppressed every single. Im hoping a 24V automotive relay will work.
I paid around 110 dollars for a 48v 20amp PSU from aliexpress. As the project mentions this type of PSU will not have quick enough up time to get the induction coil working so need it switch it first. I think all up ill be about $300 nzd including the power supply. A flame one would be cheaper but I like the idea of not having a flame inside the house and I wanted a project to do.
Shooting and other bits and peaces has taken priority. Ill start building mine in the next few months once things are back to normal.
From what I have read conduction is not enough to adequately cool it. Paid about 24 dollars for my pump and res combo.Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
I'm basing mine on an old PC with it's power supply and case. This will give me 12V and 5V supplies for the pump and control circuits and arduino. Will use an RC servo to operate the case release and a 60A solid state relay (got a box of them) to switch the output of the 48V supply. Possibly look at a case feeder too later on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nugget connaisseur
Yes, with the 3mm copper tube there is only a 2mm hole so it needs some help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nugget connaisseur
Interested :thumbsup:. Keep the updates coming. Ive got this on my list of things to do but have new arrivals so it has to wait.Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
@gadgetman - any progress on this? CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
Too much work on lately to have a crack at it. Hopefully over the next weekend or two.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Claw