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Anyone able to weld a picatinny rail on my Colt A2 upper? Or know someone who can?
Will pay for it to be done.
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I have only done a little alloy wielding, but wouldn't the risk of distorting such thin alloy make the cost of doing so not worth it v just buying a Anderson or aero upper? How about grub screws and epoxy? I have seen rails fitted to old ar10's like that.
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Hmm might be a better way to do it! Any idea who can get it done? I don't have the tools available to do it
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Most gunsmiths could do it, if they would is another matter as there time is probably worth more than you want to pay and if it's not perfect they risk there reputation.
$10 tap,$5 grub screws, $10 epoxy, $5 sandpaper is all you need to do it yourself.
Slip a barrel in, clamp a laser to the rail. Sand and bolt the rail on and of until the bore and the laser are vertically aligned with the correct Elevation spacing. Then add epoxy.
Personally I would only use such a upper for a red dot sight. Would be a good rainy day project
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Cheers res! I appreciate it!Quote:
Originally Posted by res
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No problem
https://nzar15.com/store/parts/upper...upper-receiver
I think these are the cheepest uppers in NZ right now, so you can see how it wouldn't take much paid labour to make it not worth paying to have it done as it would never be as good as a factory flat top. I hope you got the upper for free or close to it, if so its a good project with nothing to lose
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Far out that's cheap! Anyone else remember the days of $10K plus to buy an ar in nz?
Kj
Yea, my first was $5k for base rifleQuote:
Originally Posted by kimjon
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Not sure about the grub screws part...
Feel free to share some knowledge if you know another way [emoji4]Quote:
Originally Posted by MSL
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I have seen both grub screws and cap screws. I don't think either is ideal for what it's worth-personally I would bin it and buy a new one
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I just can't see how a grub screw would work, maybe I'm missing something. I would also bin it.
Paid $795 for Colts in the mid 80's at Reloaders, if they were out of stock had to go to the guy that started SAI, paid $1200 if I was lucky.Quote:
Originally Posted by kimjon
cant say Im an AR fan-remember the bloody m16s in my TFdays-beina left hooker i stillcarry a scar from a hot case ejecting and getting caught in my bloodbucket strapas it then cooked my jawline-fuck itwas hot!
old crusty maori SGTsorted it -used a shotgun boy-throw ya shoulder forward like a shottywhen you fire.best bit of bloody advice i ever had -no further probs.
anyhow looking a that upper-i wonder if perhaps someone with machining skills could machine an alloy spacer to match height where the back of the so called carrying handle was cut and then mount the base on a level plane.just my thoughts I know SFA about metal machining,but the likes of Homebrew357 and Kimjon seem to relish these challenges.
shouldnt be that hard to machine a flat on there and then drill and tap the upper to take the rail. just would depend on how much 'meat' there is to tap into
Cheers for that guys! I'll hit them up Kotuku
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AR forged receivers are 7075 aluminium I think. 7075 aluminium is generally considered to be un weldable by arc welding (tig). It stress and corrosion cracks
If this was a normal bolt action you would drill and tap the receiver to fit a rail. Personally I would just buy a new upper but welding would be my last option.
A pity that this has a lot less material to tap into compared to any bolt gun I have seen, and the whole alloy thing v steel.Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveAttack
I'm very interested in how the op gets on
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My suggestion is either chuck it, and get an upper with a rail, or...
Get a cheap "airsoft handguard" off aliexpress (such as http://s.aliexpress.com/NjYBRzE3 - search for 'ar15 handguard'), mount that to the front of the upper and use a one-piece scope mount like this (http://s.aliexpress.com/6RvQVvEn) to span the picatinny rail on the handguard AND the one you're wanting to fix to the upper. That should act as a jig to keep both rails aligned while you figure out how to permanently attach the rail to the butchered upper.
Use epoxy (I'd use Devcon or some other metal-filled epoxy) to bond rail to upper, and wait for it to cure before drilling, tapping and fastening with screws. I imagine there will be a gap between the rail and the upper that you'll need to fill with the epoxy. If you drill/tap before the epoxy is cured, you'll end up oozing epoxy everywhere.
Or, just chuck it and get a railed upper.
I'd buy a new upper. Failing that option I'd braze it with these. I have them in the garage and they work quite well.
10 Fluxless Aluminum Repair Rods & Bonus S/S Brush | Trade Me
I would not be putting any heat into any aluminium firearm part unless.
A you know exactly what grade it is and.
B you have it stress relieved then heat treated.
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The only good thing is that a ar upper contains no load on firing so no safety issues involvedQuote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
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so I gave him a had and took this on. This is what I came up with.
http://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co.n...75/#post478798