Thread: Self isolation gun projects

A little 'Ahh shit!' moment. The kingpin is well rusted into the eye. I have had the eye glowing red while under extreme pressure with the cramp only got a few thou out of it. I will let it soak overnight in penetrating oil and have a go again tomorrow. If we get a frost tonight I will hit the eye with the gas again and that might do it if I can keep the pin cold, speed being of the essence!

sit the suspension arm on something solid and try a decent square hit with a heavy sledge hammer the jack will absorb the shock it you use jack to support the arm

ATF and acetone mix is meant to be the bees knees for ‘unseizing’ things

That and a b.f.h.!

PS: have you tried loading up the clamp pressure and then giving the top of the clamp a hard whack with a hammer while supporting the other end of the clamp?

Id sit down -with a nice glass of single malt --snuggle up close ..and in your most sultry voice murmur
you do as I say
Or
Chuck Norris is on the next waka headed this way and you will know what pain is all about

I trust im understood!!

An unfortunate design means the upper control arm curves out over the line of the king pin and you can only get an angled blow at it, about 10 degrees off line. I got another 1/8" out of it a few minutes ago so will leave it soaking overnight. A good point about the jack absorbing the blow. I will put a solid support under the spindle tomorrow.

Originally Posted by gundoc

An unfortunate design means the upper control arm curves out over the line of the king pin and you can only get an angled blow at it, about 10 degrees off line. I got another 1/8" out of it a few minutes ago so will leave it soaking overnight. A good point about the jack absorbing the blow. I will put a solid support under the spindle tomorrow.

now listen old chasp -ive a psycho babble solution to your problem .
take another gulp of scotlands finest
lean in close to the offending joint
and in remembrance of one of countrys finest men GeorgeJones
croon
"I FALL TO PIECES
AND I SUGGEST YOU FUCKING DO TOO

option two
If you know any old westcoast coal miners -
a suitably applied dollop of Nobels #5
lavishly wrapped about that reticent joint
and ignited once youre undercover in the dunny or outside
mat prove you wont take no for an answer

just sayin like

Originally Posted by kotuku

now listen old chasp -ive a psycho babble solution to your problem .
take another gulp of scotlands finest
lean in close to the offending joint
and in remembrance of one of countrys finest men GeorgeJones
croon
"I FALL TO PIECES
AND I SUGGEST YOU FUCKING DO TOO

option two
If you know any old westcoast coal miners -
a suitably applied dollop of Nobels #5
lavishly wrapped about that reticent joint
and ignited once youre undercover in the dunny or outside
mat prove you wont take no for an answer

just sayin like

Option1 is the preferred choice and I have the required components in a wee selection oh Heeland malts.

Option 2 is tempting but a tad too close to my workshop, not to mention the judge next door!

On the yucky rusty tight fitting stuff it's like previously mentioned.
A bit like a slipping socket. If there is the slightest give any impact is lessened significantly.

You`v all got it wrong, you pour the single malt extract over the flaming pin, then the roasting trick, breath in the heavenly fumes. ,, now what was I meant to be doing.

Originally Posted by Klhari

Made myself a body die and a seater for a 6 Norma Dasher.
Attachment 135510

Attachment 135509

Wow, that looks very nice. I would love to see some more of the process. Im guessing you reamed it yourself? Did you use a bought die reamer or conjure one up yourself?
Are all the locking nuts and stems etc made by you? What material did you use?

Im looking into making my own reamers and dies for wildcat cartridges and projectiles so would be very interested in seeing some more.

A good Friday! Thanks for the tips! The support block under the spindle certainly helped but I had to make up a special drift as well to properly direct the hammer blows. Suspension, king pins and disc brakes done (the 8" wheels are only temporary till the new 6" front ones arrive). Next will be to remove the seats and open up the floor, then disconnect the drive train. You can see from the second photo that she is a fairly tidy old girl for a 73 year old.

Excellent work gundoc!!

Watch when you mount the diff that you make an allowance for the fact that the center bolt of the rear springs won’t have the dif in the right location if you mount it in the traditional manner otherwise your dif will be too far to the rear. ( or front, it’s been a decade or two si ce I last looked a. Chev torque-tube drive line!)
To get an idea have a look at the factory pivot point on the dif.

And don’t cut the mounts off the original dif and weld them onto the new dif, they’re designed to operate with a torque-tube.

Originally Posted by akaroa1

I put all the parts back together and ended up with this

Winchester 1885 takedown .25 rim fire
Rough but complete
Good project
Just ( and a big just ) need to team and install a .22 barrel liner and install a vintage scope if I can find one.



Both the liner and vintage scope will be a challenge in nz
Attachment 135501
Attachment 135503
Attachment 135502

@akaroa1 I thought 22 barrel liners were easily available here
@Finnwolf-none of it is torque tube?
72 nova-diff conventional 10 bolt? Torque tubes were in the 'vettes I thought

@csmiffy easily available where ?

I would buy one in a flash if I could find one

Just about to go practice on an old barrel to see how to turn one down to 1/2"

Originally Posted by csmiffy

@akaroa1 I thought 22 barrel liners were easily available here
@Finnwolf-none of it is torque tube?
72 nova-diff conventional 10 bolt? Torque tubes were in the 'vettes I thought

The older pre ‘55 Chevs had them, not sure how far back they went, probably to mid 30’s.