Swamping a muzzleloader barrel.

Well here's are a few tips for those interested in swamping a muzzleloader barrel.

This is not a How-To
It's just a few images of the one I've just done and a bit of a heads up on the time it takes
I probably have more machinery than most guys, but its really not a huge advantage

To start with I'm swamping a 26" long .75" caliber 1:60" straight octagonal barrel for a Jaeger rifle build

Attachment 288397

I did rough a bit off on my milling machine.
But you can't work lengthwise because its a constantly changing curve

So I cut the waist ( narrowest point slightly more than 1/4 back from the muzzle

I worked to the muzzle from the waist, tilting the mill head toward the muzzle in a series of flats on a constantly changing arc.

Attachment 288398

Then I worked out from the waist to near the breech
A much gentler, longer curve and I really didn't take enough out here.

Then things get fairly tedious and vigorous

There is now a vast amount of filing to do.
Lots of checking with straight edges across the flats to check you aren't getting out of flat
Lots of checking along the flat for humps and hollows

Attachment 288399

You absolutely must wear leather gloves the moment you pick up that file because you are likely to be using it for 20 hours over the next week, month or year.
Assuming you do loose the will to live and give up !

Attachment 288400

I got from the waist to the muzzle into shape relatively quickly
But from the waist to the breech is very subtly and unforgiving
I went back to that area multiple times before I was reasonably happy with it.

Honestly when its in the white and very reflective you will always see parts that reflect differently and be tempted to have " just another turn around the 8 flats "
Really when its in a stock ( you will only see 3 full flats and 2 half flats ) and browned you will never notice.

In this image the swamp seems pretty mild and gentle.
But actually I've gone pretty hard at this barrel and it will be very shapely and obviou

Attachment 288401

Well, how long did it take ?
Lost track for sure but around 20 hours

It still hasn't had a fine cut draw filing because it will get lots of bumps and scratches before it needs that and to be fit into a stock.

Why bother ?
Well that's what the flintlocks were done like to keep the weight back in the hands but have a reasonably robust muzzle and area to hang tennons and front sights from.

My muzzle tennon will be a big one because I will pass my sling loop mount through it and the stock.

So this is not a How-To

It's to encourage anyone whos always wanted to try Swamping a barrel to rip into it.

Buy some good leather work gloves
Buy some decent files
Learn how to mill file properly
Have plenty of small parralels, straight edges and steel rules

I hope you are a bit obsessive about projects and not easily discouraged
I will give you some moral support
And more tips if required

Don't over think it
Don't do it when its hot because its pretty physical
Don't let others tell you tapered octagonal is OK

And I'm looking forward to seeing an up swing in swamped barrel project builds on this forum

Seems you have absolutely no trace of ADHD

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Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Seems you have absolutely no trace of ADHD

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Yeah don't have that

I am a Rifle-aholic though and the first step to recovery is admitting you have a problem.

I'm doing pretty well actucally.
I haven't brought any rifles in December !

Phew that’s a lot of work , so the muzzle stays the same size ? how much weight ended up on your floor now you have roughed it out ?

The waist is 4.5mn narrower than the breech and then it flares back out 3mm to the muzzle

I didn't do a before and after weight on this one
But sometimes when machining down a full diameter blank you remove 75%

I struggled to follow.
So what is "Swamping"? Is it weight saving or balancing?
Is this a rebuild job or modification? It looks like there is some newly cast brass parts?

Swamping is weight and ballence

Pre the industrial revolution it was easier to file a forge welded barrel than turn it.
A gun barrel maker would have filed a single flat and then gauged all the subsequent flats off the first one
The shape of the swamp would have all been slightly different depending on what the filer had to work with and the intended purpose of the rifle

This 75 cal barrel is for a new rifle.
Left handed Flintlock Jaeger Stutzen
Basically along the lines of a Pattern 1776 rifle
This was the first British twist rifled service rifle to see service.
The first 200 were brought on contract from Germany. There were another 800 made in Birmingham to the same pattern.

These 1000 rifles were issued to German Hessian Jaeger mercenaries who fought for the British in the American War of Independence

I'm not building it because I'm into military rifles.
But I like the Jaeger style rifles of that period.
They were usually .60 cal or bigger
They were relatively short for that period
They were robustly built because hung on a big barrel
They lasted well in service use
They were a lot slower to shoot than the service muskets of that time. But in the hands of an experienced and skilled Jaeger they were accurate to about 300 yards

As a hunting rifle with a 26" barrel this should be quite nice to carry and shoot.
The American Long Rifle i built had a traditional 44" barrel.
It was a delight to shoot in 50 cal patched round ball.
But it couldn't be slung over the shoulder.
Needed to be in the hands always and was pretty challenging for my hunting locations

Curious, did you have to constantly stop and card the file to remove shavings? Would it make it easier to have several of each file type? Did you start with a new file?

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Originally Posted by bjp

Curious, did you have to constantly stop and card the file to remove shavings? Would it make it easier to have several of each file type? Did you start with a new file?

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I started with several new files
Roughed with a coarse mill file
Smoothed with a 2nd cut mill file that has definitely lost about half of its cut
I do have a smooth mill file which I will use later in the project

I do not chalk these files as I dont think it helps
I do not card the files but I remove pining with a sharp brass bar end
Proper draw filing when you have a good run brings off microscopic spirals anyway ans it doesn't pin up

I do some cross filing at about 45° with the roughing file
Slowly tightening the angle so the size of the contact increases so that is isn't following the undulations as much

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Originally Posted by akaroa1

Yeah don't have that

I am a Rifle-aholic though and the first step to recovery is admitting you have a problem.

I'm doing pretty well actucally.
I haven't brought any rifles in December !

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Having met the man, spent time in his shed, best way to to describe it is an alcoholic working in a brewery, ment in the best possible way