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Ive got a bit of a project going on, has anyone done or heard of porting a barrel for a suppressor?
And also welding to a barrel, Ive got access to mig, arc, tig, and brazing. which If any would be ok to use?
Cheers
p.s. please forgive how naive I am on the subject...at least Im asking before I do something potentially dangerous:thumbsup:
What are you putting on the barrel?
Suppressor
Draw me a picture
Was thinking of an underslung job so it doesnt mess with the line of sight. want to "fix" a collar about 2/3rds down, slide the suppressor on then make up a nut to tighten it onto a thread on the end of the barrel. port the section of the barrel where it runs through the tube....so the wallabys dont hear theyre mates getting vapourised:D
Might add ill be running the softest loads I can find
I believe the wad keeps the shot safe from the porting holes. A dividing head and carbide cutter would do it - size and spacing I have no idea. I'd be cautious about welding, easy flow or something may be go. I reckon may be able to cut a fine thread at the muzzle
Don't disount locktite just yet either
Which reminds me Wallibies? What about a slight shrink fit, easyflow is brilliant just a cherry red, works like a "glue" runs like water,Quote:
Originally Posted by big_foot
Yea let me know when ya ready to go Im good most weekends. Im pretty sure Ive got some easyflow here, just not sure about getting the barrel cherry red:x_x:
Red is hot enough(850c) to fuck easy flow but perfect for brazing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maca49
I am not going to recommend anything on the interweb but if your mods are towards the loud end not the loading end you should be pretty right.
Can you just sweat it with some solder?
Yeah I might just do that, the thread will keep a bit of pressure on it anywayQuote:
Originally Posted by Maca49
Clean it, flux it, tin both surfaces and flow together, you'll need good heat supply
roger, if I remember ill take a pic or 2Quote:
Originally Posted by Maca49
High temp high strength retaining 6** can't remember the no's. Go 15 to 20mm wide and .05 clearance ( think it takes up to .2) clean, prime glue done. Will take some heat to remove, I have done a lot of shrink fits for bearing sleeves and used to be a skeptic.
Yep I used some metal araldite two pot mix! It's bloody amazing stuff, could use in place of solder with a bit more clearance, can be drilled, filed etc.
Where do I find that?Quote:
Originally Posted by Maca49
Yea na not in this application, easyflow or solder please.Quote:
Originally Posted by big_foot
Yea na WTF I've used to fix sights on my black powder rifle, like shit to a blanket! But agree easyflow or solder for a tradesman like job. If glued you could relieve the band to give more thickness. An engineering supplies will have the araldite, it's black in colour, comes in two seperate tubes you mix together.
Suppressors on shotguns, particularly 12 ga, are more trouble than they are worth. They add a lot of weight forward which inhibits your swing, and they are not very quiet, even with subsonic loads. The main problem is the size of the hole, and the fact that the suppressor has to be designed so it will not catch the wad, which also makes it inefficient in trapping and slowing gas. It is easier for the gas to follow (and overtake) the wad instead of going into barrel ports. Also the baffles have to have tapered rear edges to allow the wad to pass without catching, which also does the same to the gas. I have been designing and commercially building suppressors for over 40 years and have never yet got good results with a shotgun - quieter yes, but not much! During the Vietnam War the US developed a silent shot cartridge for the .44 Magnum revolver for the 'tunnel rats'. The only reason it worked was that the special cartridge case remained sealed after doubling it's length when fired and the gas was fully contained.
Yea I get what your saying and cheers for your input. Im not to concerned about weight and swing as its designed for reasonably stationary targets around the 10-20m mark. Might be a silly question but do solids have wads?Quote:
Originally Posted by gundoc
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
Araldite softens at about 50C.
Yes, American loads and some European loads have plastic wads, the rest have multiple card wads.Quote:
Originally Posted by big_foot
i got some i can bring over on saturday if you haventQuote:
Originally Posted by big_foot
you might be better to do a insert job like what @Toby did with a shottieQuote:
Originally Posted by big_foot
Nah not accurate enough. Why not get a suppressed .22 and head shoot the fuckers if its only 20m
when you meet bigfoot you will understand, i think he wants a mess as the end result.Quote:
Originally Posted by Toby
were the inserts rifled?Quote:
Originally Posted by Toby
Haha fair enough, not gonna argue with that
+1 it's a nice shotty, fired from the hip?
Yep nice rifle, .45? @FriwiQuote:
Originally Posted by mucko
Haha na I just like 12 gauge, does the job good. I know some people shoot cows with the bloody things but wallabies are as big as Ill go with my .22 and thats when spotlighting on my mates farm, Id be no good in the scrub with it.
Did think about inserts or using a pistol caliber but just kept getting drawn back to the shoty, price and availablity being the major factors.
If I go with easy flow or solder will the temperature required harm the barrel? Its only a single shot I really dont think Ill be able to pump enough rounds through to get very warm.
I ported my old Bakail single barrel with black n decker and small drill bit. 5 holes about 3mm at 10 and 2 oclock spaced about 12mm apart. it reduced barrel lift a little and was just a bit different. think it helped with recoil a tad too maybe just because gun didn't lift into cheek. haven't don't the pump YET!!!!
Hi guys,Quote:
Originally Posted by Maca49
Sorry just back from holiday trip in Rarotonga.
Yep, 458 socom.