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I need to move my safe it’s currently in the garage bolted to the concrete, I want to bring it inside and put it in a wardrobe (hopefully warmer and dryer in there) what’s the best thing to secure it to the wooden floor and walls with? Sorry this will seem very easy for most but im the guy that’s wife doesn’t let use power tools
A steel plate with threaded rod studs welded on, to come up from under the floor, then some coach screws into the wall.
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well whatever you use make sure you use more than you think you need...some really big screws into floor and walls work well,a dozen gib screws into panels will hold a hell of a lot.... not being able to move it seems to be the usual test when its inspected...Im yet to see someone get down n dirty to see if its bolted.... I struggle to get enough wrist strength to twist screws home,so use square headed screws and the cordless drill OR put the bits into correct sized socket and use the ratchet to snug them up tight. having just done the rear fence of section with iron fence,the screws used really impressed me with strength and they hare done up with a decent sized socket type bit,you can get them in longer lengths too...no way would you manage to pull them out of timber.
So it’s a bit of a job then?Quote:
Originally Posted by MSL
Go to the NZ Police website and look for the document titled "Secure Storage Guide for Firearms and Ammunition". The current iteration, I believe, is Version 3: February 2022. Everything you need to know.
I f you can find studs drill a row of holes in the back 8mm more to top than base and screw in 70 -80 mm tec screws with screw gun or 18v drill cost under 20 for bit and 10 screws ,youll nether rip it of . and for the experts im a builder 50yrs locksmith 25 yrs experience just dont over think it
I'd be lining it up with some studs and dwangs/nogs and using 100mm tec screws.
For me, no. But m101a1’s suggestion is far easier, cheaper, and more than sufficient.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr300WSM
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I've got galv. bolts through the safe's floor, epoxied into the concrete floor....she's going to be a bitch to shift when I eventually move out of here. But no ninja's going to remove it, that's for sure. That's what you have to think of.
Locate a stud in your wardrobe and use a couple of 75mm long, 10mm galvinised hex head coach bolts with good sized washers behind the hex heads. If there is a skirting board inside the wardrobe and there usually is, either cut it out or use a length of solid wood the same thickness as the skirting board and make sure the coach bolts pass through that.
exactly what we did and police were happy .... just straight thru the spacer wood into a stud .Quote:
Originally Posted by 10-Ring
Use BIG washers
tek screws are like duct tape and zip ties . mans best inventions, and holding the world together
How to solve my problem - Bank safe - 6 inch walls - 2.5 ton, ABP, and the police say it it needs bolting down.......now - how the fuck do I do that?
Logic goes out the minute.
m101a1's Advice is the best. as for you not being best with hand tools have you got a trusted mate who's good on the tools that'd be keen to help you out for the new fitout?
75 mm coach bolt screws,10mm dia.Into wall studs and thru floor into joist or blocks of timber under floor.I got a pass for doing this in chch few years ago.Put a big dob of fibar glass glue around hex bolt head.Goes really hard and bitch for thiefs to grind off to get socket over hex bolt head.Do this to about half your bolts heads.Im a expert.lols
Common sense ain't so common any more. And was it police, or some numpty civie "vetting officer" who knows nothing about reality?Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghead
But aren't your bolt heads inside the safe?Quote:
Originally Posted by Trout
Thats right lols but it looks good for the educated vetting inspector.:D
I think you've been over-thinking that one, Trout.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trout
Why would you want to go to the trouble of "putting a big dob of fibreglass around the bolt head/s"? If the miscreant has managed to get the safe open, I'm sure as hell certain that the last thing on their mind is to remove the safe. It's the contents they're after, isn't it??
Sometimes it would be easier and quieter to prize a gun safe off a wall using a hand pumped porta power and block of wood and crowe bar.Than to use a noisey battery angle grinder and a pack of fine cutting discs to cut into safe waking the neighbors up.
its 2.5t......the inspecter is NEVER going to be capable of lifting it to look.....so put some bolts down into the base and have some nuts coming up from the bottom..... the connecting of those two bits is neither feasible nor necessary.....or checkable if you think about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghead
A bunch of pillows over the grinder shuts them up. But makes it a bugger to see what you are doing!;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Trout
It's the only thing I use now. Haven't used nails in years. I like the bugle head counter sunk ones to give a flush finish in wood.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sig4x4
If you could find these in size fit to your requirement, you can do it quietly. I think...Good luckQuote:
Originally Posted by Mr300WSM
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@ Mr300wsm
M101a1 pretty much nailed it with his advice, it’s an easy job if you work with tools every day, it’s also an easy job if you have done it once before.
But any job can seem intimidating when you’re stepping into the unknown especially when you have to have faith enough to finish it because you know there’s no going back like when you start ripping everything out of the bathroom to redo it.
If you’re finding the job daunting, feel free to pm me your contact number, I am happy to talk you through the different steps as you go and advise on what to check for at the start and some tips and tricks to get you through.
It's not likely that a professional thief is going to try and break into your firearm security unless they know you have a lot of valuable firearms. It's usually the opportunist meth head that will try and grab anything they can and get out of there as fast as they can. They're not likely to carry specialist equipment or angle grinders.
unless they already know what is there, and where it is. In which case your security has already failed.Quote:
Originally Posted by 10-Ring
You mean the smoke? The pillow would be on fire in no time.Quote:
Originally Posted by XR500
I had to use a 1mm cutoff disc recently on some thicknesser knives which are only 3mm thick. I clamped the blades between two bits of timber and put them in the wood vice. As it's my good wood bench, I didn't want abrasive shit all over it so got an old sheet and covered the bench and vice jaws. In no time, the stream of grinding sparks was close to setting the sheet on fire despite being about 250mm away from the cutting spot. Had to put a metal deflector over the hot spot.
(dupl)
