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Cool. I'll leave all the linage blah blah to others.
Now down to actually rearing pups. HANDLE THEM A LOT!!!!
Get everyone else to handle them a lot.
Get them around other dogs a lot. (The bitch will tell you when)
Take them for a short burn in the car every now and then.
Handle them some more.
Never let them inside.
Do those very few simple things and you'll be amazed at how good a pup you've started, and it takes no work.....
The fundamental aspects in breeding a litter are...
1. ask yourself why you want to breed a litter...some reckon that it settles your bitches temperament; it might slow them down a little for a while but does not
change their temperaments.
2. you want a litter out of your bitch before you spey her...why spey her then...why breed her?
3. HAVE YOU GOT A LIST OF INTERESTED PARTIES WANTING PUPPIES FROM YOUR BITCH BEFORE SHE IS MATED?
4. inbreeding is linebreeding gone wrong
Ok, i accept that this post contains some of your philosophy... now how about some wisdom in breeding litters?Quote:
Originally Posted by EeeBees
I think you are patently wrong... I think there is much better, higher criteria to adhere to... wtf?
I dont give a ratsarse what you and the post police think about my posts on this forum...I didnt ask your opinion and when I want it I will let you know...
heheheh
I suggest reading "Planned Breeding" by Lloyd C. Brackett.
An award winning article on the differences between linebreeding and inbreeding.
for general ease here it is -- http://breedingbetterdogs.com/pdfFil...tts_fomula.pdfQuote:
Originally Posted by Smallfry
FFS Ruff, you must be on the HIT list for all woman dog handlers/breeders .
UU, Ruff is not on my hit list...I do not have such a thing, but when he stops patronising other people it will be all be fine...
I'm not sure why the bitch was given the chance of a second litter after the first :)Quote:
Originally Posted by el borracho
I accept there is a lot you're unsure about ... :ORLY:
Wirehunt and EBs have two different discussions, one is about physically raising a litter, one is about the ethics of breeding. What is actually being discussed here?
Does anyone really know... essentially it MUST be about better gundogs... but who can really tell. :)
:XD: Nobody knows
Drop the ethics, far too contentiousQuote:
Originally Posted by Pointer
Disscussions on raising a pup will benefit most here
I'm really keen to know too MH. I don't want to know the whys, the hows are of more benefit
interesting , a negative view on this posted linkQuote:
Originally Posted by el borracho
Brackett’s Formula for Failure | BorderWars
Not much of a fan of Brackett either.
Brackett was of an era when the stud got all the glory for successful progeny, a notion quite popular in the UK and the States even to this day. Most people today acknowledge the dam has an equal, if not greater part in the inheritance of certain sex-related genes.
I can now see why some don't like to discuss their breeding thoughts -so much theory on whose got what and what works bests.
Yeah. The proof is in the pudding as they say
What proof and what pudding...:D:D:D invariably this would want to return to the old trial versus working versus Im happy with my dog, ok!! and obviously genetics are alas taboo, so that leaves, um, birds...:D
As they say in the old country...
The only thing two gundog trainers will ever agree on is that a third trainer is doing it all wrong.
trial versus working are the self same dogs !!!
Righto, first ensure that your bitch is well fed, has lots of exercise etc before she is in whelp, she must have at least a hour or more of run each day during pregnancy and that has to include gallops...do not increase her feed but feed her as good as food as possible ie up the meat...but feed her like there is no tomorrow once she has gotten over her whelping 'fast'...a Spring/Summer litter is preferable to an Autumn/Winter litter...if you want to be pedantic, advise your vet of the bitch's impending whelping just in case help is required...ensure that the bitch can voluntarily leave the whelps (ie an adequate sized whelping box) to attend to her ablutions and for exercise...worm the puppies throughout their eight weeks because they inherit a worm burden from the bitch...never let a puppy go under eight weeks...feed puppies individually, that way you can monitor their appetites and adjust amounts...accustom puppies to loud noises etc...spend as much time as is possible with the puppies, from birth...
There are three nines to the bitch and puppies...
Nine weeks gestation where the focus is constantly on the care of the dam
Nine weeks care of the litter, their weaning and their departure to their new homes
Nine months of the rearing of the puppies where their diet and exercise will lay down the foundation for a dog which is healthy and develops good barrel development and strong limbs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by el borracho
:D:D:D
I feed the pups very differently EB, it's also the way the main pack is feed (note here, no labs involved)
The whole lot are over feed together. Not in one big pile, but a few smaller ones spread over about four metres. There is no fights over food cause they all know there is more than enough. So there can be around 10-14 adult dogs plus a few pups having a feed. After the main biscuit feed they are hand fed fat, at the moment every second day.
The pups are also feed after the main feed on some better tucker, being pups they just don't get much at the main one, but it's great having them involved in it.
Of pups I've breed none are gutses or fight over food, some pups I've bought have been a bit that way. For me it's a PITA.