Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Create Account now to join.
  • Login:

Welcome to the NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums.

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.

Delta Terminator


User Tag List

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 50
Like Tree35Likes

Thread: Lab sort of problems

  1. #16
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Nelson
    Posts
    24,766
    Quote Originally Posted by Happy View Post
    She will be retrieving from ponds etc. when she gets wind of food there’s no calling her back Tried whistling her and calling no way she’s not interested I don’t run after her. She won’t get shot over as it’s all mai mai shooting and we stop shooting to do a retreive Be ducks only
    I have had to train mine to walk on a lead and sit and, well everything basicly totally untrained when we got her.
    Found tonight by keeping her on a lead for a start till the excitement levels dropped a bit I could let her range out a couple hundred meters and call her back (in a howling wind too!) so definitely making progress....also have a solid sit when inrange so have found that good to enforce the come here or she comes here and runs past at 70kph and keeps going lol She is just full of beans and will run flat stick in big circles if not controlled(must be the greyhound in her)
    Micky Duck likes this.
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  2. #17
    Member Cordite's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    NZ Mainland (Dunedin)
    Posts
    5,478
    Quote Originally Posted by Happy View Post
    Any ideas or help welcome. She’s a lovely girl
    Attachment 85913
    @Happy

    And there is your problem: you need to play hard to get. Don't allow her on the sofa. She'll soon be chasing you and you'll enjoy her company a lot more.
    An itch ... is ... a desire to scratch

  3. #18
    Gone but not forgotten Gapped axe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lake Tarawera
    Posts
    4,044
    correction collar only to start off with and then let her know who controls who.
    "ars longa, vita brevis"

  4. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Auckland
    Posts
    43
    Quote Originally Posted by Happy View Post
    She will be retrieving from ponds etc. when she gets wind of food there’s no calling her back Tried whistling her and calling no way she’s not interested I don’t run after her. She won’t get shot over as it’s all mai mai shooting and we stop shooting to do a retreive Be ducks only
    It sounds like she is self-hunting. That is not her fault as it is something that she has been allowed to do, but it is now your problem and it is not easy to correct. My suggestion would be to go right back to basics and then build her up again. I would start with a whistle (Acme 210, 210.5 or 211.5). She needs to learn two whistle commands. First is recall, which is 3 peeps. Second is a stop command, that is one blast.

    With the recall command, start off using it at home to call her for her food. Even if she is already there, walk around the yard and do a couple calls holding her food bowl with her following. Then transfer this to the park. What you want to do is get into her head. Let her go hunt and then go hide somewhere with a vantage point. What you want to do is make her think that she is lost. You want to make her anxious. You will see her looking around, ears back and running to try and find you. After she has been anxious for a while call her (three peeps). She will then start to equate the whistle as something positive. It has provided her with relief and recall will become a positive thing. But don’t over do it. Only do it once or twice a walk and don’t let her panic. Another trick is when she is at a distance, blow the recall whistle and when she looks up, run in the opposite direct as fast as you can. This will start to teach her if she does not come, she will be left behind.

    With the stop command, ask her to sit and then immediately blow your whistle once. Over time she will equate the single blast with sit and stop. Then once she understands that you need to extend it out so that you can stop her at a distance. This is handy when you are hunting. One exercise I will do with my dogs is to send one out and then when they are at a distance I will stop him/her. Then I will throw a couple dummies either side. Then make them wait before directing them to a particular dummy. I will then send the other dog sitting beside me to the other dummy. This reinforces the stop whistle, steadiness and hand signals.

    Dogs respond to direct stimulus. So timing is critical. If your dog takes off and does not come back to you the time to tell it off is not when it finally comes back to you. It will not equate the telling off with the failure to come back straight away, it will equate the telling off with coming back to you. So what do you do if she does not come back after you call her. Easy, get after her and sneak up on her, give her a fright and yell and run in the opposite direction. This will help to teach her that you are omnipresent.

    The reason that I asked what sort of hunting you do is because that has implications for the training. I use my labs as retrievers, particularly when hunting waterfowl. But I also hunt over them when I am rough shooting or shooting walked-up. But if you are just shooting ducks you only need a non-slip retriever. She does not need to hunt. She only needs to retrieve shot game. So another option for you is to make her walk to heel all the time. Let her run free for a couple mins at the start, but then for the rest of your walk make her heel. Eventually you will modify her behaviour so that she stays close all the time. Which is good if you end up shooting upland game. A dog hunting at 5m, will be at 10m when it smells the pheasant and 15m when it flushes, so if your dog is already working at 25m you are going to have trouble making that shot.

    Another option is try and desensitizer her and teach her that hunting for her is not going off by herself. For this she needs to stay beside you while being exposed to birds. That is not easy to arrange. So one option is to approach one of the upland game preserves to see if they have any openings for beaters. There are two near you in Hamilton. Tui Ridge in Raglan and Leigh Barton in Cambridge. They will be looking for people at the moment. Basically you will walk with a bunch of people in a line flushing pheasants over the guns. There may be some opportunities to work your dog, but it will be a good opportunity for her to be exposed to game without being asked to do anything.

    I have never used a shock collar. I approach training on the basis that I want the dog to work for me because they want to, not because of a negative consequence. I have friends that do use them and all the dogs seem to learn is that the collar can shock. So when they don’t have the collar they tend to revert back.

    Finally, sorry about the long post.
    tetawa, Happy, Woody and 1 others like this.

  5. #20
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    kaiapoi
    Posts
    6,727
    Our red cattle dog we got in oz smack on her 2nd birthday as a rescue dog-same sort of thing.
    She'll bugger off if the gates open, even just walk behind you. Sort of comes back, sometimes. Selective deafness. Once coming back she knows she's done wrong but will do it 5 minutes later if you let her. red headed bitch is all I can say.

  6. #21
    Gone but not forgotten Gapped axe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lake Tarawera
    Posts
    4,044
    But good on Pigs. Those red Merles are fuckin tough.
    "ars longa, vita brevis"

  7. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Cambridge
    Posts
    974
    Our kennels are based just outside of Hamilton, you are welcome to bring yourself and dog over for some advise/tuition.

  8. #23
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Kingcountry
    Posts
    4,624
    Quote Originally Posted by Paddy79 View Post
    the last dog I had that ran off and would not come back got a 165gr 308 cal round at 300m never ran any further ever again
    why? dogs are a tool and useless tools get destroyed
    Your lucky that your old man didn't have that attitude with you. The owner has to take some responsibility with the dogs behaviour but with second hand goods the problems can be tuff to sort.
    Pengy likes this.

  9. #24
    Member kidmac42's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    central otago
    Posts
    1,207
    Quote Originally Posted by tetawa View Post
    Your lucky that your old man didn't have that attitude with you. The owner has to take some responsibility with the dogs behaviour but with second hand goods the problems can be tuff to sort.
    I think we were trying to ignore his completely crass statement mate. I sure as hell was til now anyway.
    Micky Duck likes this.
    Ya can't park there mate.

  10. #25
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Geraldine
    Posts
    22,627
    good on ya Kawhia...I was hoping you would chime in.

  11. #26
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Napier.
    Posts
    2,101
    he did

  12. #27
    Member Pengy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Up in da hills somewhere near Nelson
    Posts
    9,691
    Quote Originally Posted by Paddy79 View Post
    the last dog I had that ran off and would not come back got a 165gr 308 cal round at 300m never ran any further ever again
    why? dogs are a tool and useless tools get destroyed
    As my old Grandad used to say. "A poor tradesman ALWAYS blames his tools"
    Forgotmaboltagain+1

  13. #28
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    Napier.
    Posts
    2,101
    @Pengy in the early 80s my father sold working dogs for up to $2000 so clearly he knew how to train dogs because people would pay for those dogs and any dog that did not perform got shot. I grew up on 5500 hectares of rough farm land we had no time for shit dogs and I was taught how to put them down from a very young age

  14. #29
    Member Pengy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Up in da hills somewhere near Nelson
    Posts
    9,691
    Whoopee fuckin doo
    Forgotmaboltagain+1

  15. #30
    Member Pengy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Up in da hills somewhere near Nelson
    Posts
    9,691
    My dog came from someone with a similar mindset. She will never make a hunting dog etc etc etc, but he couldn't bring himself to shoot her.

    I am sure as hell no dog expert, but take it from me that he was WRONG. A bit of effort is all it takes. Shooting them is just lazy
    Forgotmaboltagain+1

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. what sort of grease?
    By rogers.270 in forum Firearms, Optics and Accessories
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-06-2014, 05:08 PM
  2. A trip report, (well sort of)
    By mikee in forum The Magazine
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 16-01-2014, 12:02 PM
  3. What sort of cast do you want from your dog...
    By EeeBees in forum Trial, Pedigree and Bird Dogs
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 25-12-2013, 10:11 PM
  4. Sort of Hunting
    By Neckshot in forum Hunting
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 30-11-2013, 09:15 PM
  5. What sort of 223?
    By gadgetman in forum Firearms, Optics and Accessories
    Replies: 30
    Last Post: 13-09-2012, 09:49 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Welcome to NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums! We see you're new here, or arn't logged in. Create an account, and Login for full access including our FREE BUY and SELL section Register NOW!!