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I have years of hard copies and Accurate Rifle mags if anyone is looking for particular writers or topics…

Yup it’s the rails and the complexity of Mauser type feeding. Some landmark posts from master American custom riflemakers in the 90s relating to feed rails, timing, mag spring tension etc. Bear in...

Looks like South African surplus produced by Serbia (?) during the Cold War haha…probably used mainly in Vickers. Sold by the case in NZ some years back (? 90s or early 00s)..

Yes, the muzzle blast is as much of an issue as the sound. Ears you can protect (with intention) but blast without a suppressor you can’t.

I got a couple of CZ527 223 barrels unused take offs from them, one repurposed onto my Sako A1…gunsmithing cost a bit though…

What he says

So frustrating. But the primary issue is - carbon buildup in chamber/throat. Only if you’ve excluded that can you start looking at other variables. Next variable is magazine. Even original Ruger mags...

AA TX 200 HC, HW50, HW80 22, HW45 22 pistol. Great fun!

Also look at prewar Husqvarna with C ring Mauser type actions made by FN.

I had a near miss with a Tipton disintegrating (yes I was a bit overzealous).. splinters didn’t puncture skin. They don’t show on x ray and are a bugger to dig out I know from professional experience!

Hammer forged Tikka barrels generally well finished internally, i’d say less benefit doing ‘break in’ than some others…

My personal opinion - we should not draw attention to the inconsistencies..essentially the prudent approach is to refer to the least restrictive wording or interpretation in any of the official info…

It was the cocking piece/shroud that’s plastic on T3, alloy/steel on T3X from memory

Isn’t the loading port slightly bigger on X? Hence in theory more rigid action?

Thanks for all the pooled wisdom! I’ve loaded 416 Rigby, 375 H&H, 9.3x62, 30-06, 308, 270, 243, and have a full set of reloading toys based on a Lyman Orange press, but 303 will be the first rimmed...

Yup brutally rational. Was going to say earlier I haven’t had the chamber casted..but not wanting to get tooo precious.., or overthink it?

Hmmm..this is what makes life and oir hobby/passion interesting. My 303 is an out of the grease (yeah I know the controversy) ‘Irish’ 1955 original with open sights (so with my eyesight I’m not going...

Thank you o wise ones! Yup, I always use the hot water for milsurp cleaning, and only one service rifle left (sob) so will mainly use the collet die. Advice much appreciated!

Was thinking the Lee set with a collet die would be a good option. I have everything needed for other calibres but haven’t bothered with 303 yet as I’ve got close to a lifetime’s stock of milsurp,...

So I’ve plenty of military 303 milsurp for my only remaining 303, a 1955 Fazakerly, but if I were to reload what dies should I buy/start out with?

Got to be the lightest and most compact in this magnification range.

A symbol of what the future holds…..:(

Sent a text

This is an 8” twist rifle if factory original? That might have an influence….?

Personally I think Reloaders is hard to beat for service.