Thread: Baikal rail issue

Originally Posted by Sarvo

Hi Tim
No that Baikal will be a point and shoot - been walking round today with dogs trying to flush sonething out to fire its 1st shot - but no luck yet

Re other 7.62x39 Baikal
Mmm - I dont think I grubbed any key/screw as there was no where to seat it - and I also think I had rail back 1/2mm clear of breach/break face knowing the issue I had last time
I also could not understand that 3 times I shifted ret + to right and onto new bullet hole and it needed exact same next two trys (but thought maybe I did not do a final hold of main menu button to lock the shift in)
With these Thermal scopes - You fire at Bull - then freeze frame pic - them use menu and shift ret+ over to bullet hole (which is still glowing hot) - push set/lock and - usually its all over in 1 shot.
So I think it has moved up - but it still was way over from my bore sighting b4 going to range, so need to try and rectify that.
Might even change the rings and deff flip to opposite etc

Not what I meant. The grub screw is a bolt that goes through the metal. Think of a bolt with the head cut off and a recessed driver head of some sort, usually hex. Like this https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/grub-...crews/1870721/

They normally screw down from through the rail inside a ring. You can see it on this product.



On the rifle the dovetail should look like this



One of te screw will go down and engage with the groove to stop recoil movement. Not usually found on weaver as the groove in weaver interlock with the holds on the rings this stopping slippage.

Originally Posted by timattalon

Not what I meant. The grub screw is a bolt that goes through the metal. Think of a bolt with the head cut off and a recessed driver head of some sort, usually hex. Like this https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/grub-...crews/1870721/

They normally screw down from through the rail inside a ring. You can see it on this product.

Attachment 145461

On the rifle the dovetail should look like this

Attachment 145462

One of te screw will go down and engage with the groove to stop recoil movement. Not usually found on weaver as the groove in weaver interlock with the holds on the rings this stopping slippage.

Yes - I understood - will look today

I had a Baikal in 243 years ago, it was a good setup (happily did < 1" @ 100m) so I did some digging. This is I used: https://www.trademe.co.nz/sports/hun...2706131849.htm (I looked back in my trademe history)

Originally Posted by vulcannz

I had a Baikal in 243 years ago, it was a good setup (happily did < 1" @ 100m) so I did some digging. This is I used: https://www.trademe.co.nz/sports/hun...2706131849.htm (I looked back in my trademe history)

We have used a few of those as well. If you look atthe picture relatively closely, you can see where the grub / recoil screw goes through to the bottom.

The choice of mount system we used on the Baikals varied depending on what scope the owner wanted. Rails like the one listed there were good for "normal" 3-9x40s etc as it allowed enough height with rings to clear the rear blade sight if it was retained.

For compact or similar scopes we used one piece units and occasionally drilled and tapped the top to fit a flat rail for low profile scopes or ones that were wanted low mounting.

In the second one down, the air gun mount has had the underside modified significantly so that it would mount around the flare on the front of the dovetail. We milled out the clamping surfaces.

I am not a fan of using the "two rings" in the lower image as that does not support the scope as well as it could. With shorter scopes it may work depending on eye relief.

The flat rail that has been fitted would also need the rear sight ramp to be filed down so it is lower than the top of the dovetail. If this is not done the rifle will not fully close and it won fire if the chamber is not closed (or it shouldn't) If you look carefully you can see under the rail there is a groove for the recoil screws. (Please note in that image the rail is sitting on the rifle and is not screwed into place- it was done to show the lowest mounting height.

First I would remove scope and rings and sight along the groove in the rail to the end of the barrel to see if the end of the barrel is tending off to one side. I have a rifle that has this issue and I could not alter the alignment of the rail to the barrel/action. I fixed it by using Burris rings with the offset inserts to give me windage rather than elevation. Previously it had Leupold quick release rings that would change POI every time the pressure on the lever changed. As pointed out earlier there may be a bit of fudge room with your current rings not being identical to allow some gain by swapping back/front and turning them around.

Originally Posted by gadgetman

First I would remove scope and rings and sight along the groove in the rail to the end of the barrel to see if the end of the barrel is tending off to one side. I have a rifle that has this issue and I could not alter the alignment of the rail to the barrel/action. I fixed it by using Burris rings with the offset inserts to give me windage rather than elevation. Previously it had Leupold quick release rings that would change POI every time the pressure on the lever changed. As pointed out earlier there may be a bit of fudge room with your current rings not being identical to allow some gain by swapping back/front and turning them around.

Not easy to get a sight along like that when you half blind and using glasses :-(

OK
I cannot not flip the rail to rear as the recoil stud wont work/align
I have shifted it back and used the recoil pin that I was no using before
No diff
Changed rings - front to rear and left to right
No diff

Think I will go back to the 243 and try and get a better quality rail like the one in 1st post 2nd & 3rd pic

Originally Posted by Sarvo

Not easy to get a sight along like that when you half blind and using glasses :-(

OK
I cannot not flip the rail to rear as the recoil stud wont work/align
I have shifted it back and used the recoil pin that I was no using before
No diff
Changed rings - front to rear and left to right
No diff

Think I will go back to the 243 and try and get a better quality rail like the one in 1st post 2nd & 3rd pic

The Burris rings will probably be your best bet.

Have a couple of sets of those base adapters that take Weaver type rings, they do work correctly, will send to you to play with.

left field thought here.....will a DIFFERENT scope line up correctly using the base you have on rifle??????
we use the 2nd mount Tim has shown and it works fine n dandy.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

left field thought here.....will a DIFFERENT scope line up correctly using the base you have on rifle??????
we use the 2nd mount Tim has shown and it works fine n dandy.

No - had same issue
Its now in the bin !!
The rail not the rifle

Sighted in a 243 and 22
Using the QD - worked good and both returned to Zero when swapped back and forth - also sighted .22 in for Subsonic and High V

Will get a descent Picatinny rail out of Russia/East Europe - one designed pacifically for the Baikal

Originally Posted by Sarvo

No - had same issue
Its now in the bin !!
The rail not the rifle

Sighted in a 243 and 22
Using the QD - worked good and both returned to Zero when swapped back and forth - also sighted .22 in for Subsonic and High V

Will get a descent Picatinny rail out of Russia/East Europe - one designed pacifically for the Baikal

To me brutally honest, probably easier to get it drilled and tapped and bolt a rail directly to the top. I could probably find someone in Blenheim that can help....Or I have some mounts here that may help if you have a inch tube.....

Originally Posted by timattalon

To me brutally honest, probably easier to get it drilled and tapped and bolt a rail directly to the top. I could probably find someone in Blenheim that can help....Or I have some mounts here that may help if you have a inch tube.....

Yes - a rail fixed directly on
You thinking of the Bro for that job ??
Sounds like a pretty clever guy

I had a 308 Baikal many moons ago, and asked the local gunsmith to fit a picatinny rail as the dovetail was too short for the scope I wanted to mount. To keep it nice and low he machined off the dovetail and a bit lower again - theres plenty of meat there to do it. Then he fitted a picatinny base on top, cantilevered about 40mm in front of the action. He suggested at the time, that if I wanted to fit a larger scope, or make it even stronger, he could machine the underside of a picattinny rail so that it had a "block" right out at the end of the cantilever, that would extend down to the barrel, and could have another mounting screw in to the barrel. That rifle was bloody accurate!

Originally Posted by Sarvo

Yes - a rail fixed directly on
You thinking of the Bro for that job ??
Sounds like a pretty clever guy

I wish, No. He does not have the gear for that task, but he does know a gunsmith there who does that stuff for him.....

[QUOTE=timattalon;1039670]I wish, No. He does not have the gear for that task, but he does know a gunsmith there who does that stuff for him.....[/QUOT

I heard from a guy via Facebook who introduced himself as Blenheim Gunsmith but I never kept his details
So let me know if you can and will contact him