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Thread: Calibre and Barrel Length Decision......

  1. #1
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    Calibre and Barrel Length Decision......

    I am about to take the plunge and buy my first plastic and silver rifle. It will also be the first that has a suppressor.... It will be a Sako Finnlight, and all I now need to decide is whether to get a .260 or .308...and what will largely determine that is which will allow the barrel to be shortened while giving up the least performance? I already have a .260 and .308 so am familiar with them, but haven't bothered myself with the implications of chopping them in the past, hence this question. And I expect this rifle to do everything, from bush hunting to as far as it can reasonably reach.

    Thanks in anticipation.

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    I wouldn't go any shorter than factory with the .260 as its already 20" and to get the best out of it I would rather have a 22" barrel.

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  3. #3
    Sending it Gibo's Avatar
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    Yip and go 16" with 308. I have both , 16" 308 with 165 BTs doing 2700 so sweet out to 500 and 21" 260 with 143 eldx doing 2820 so sweet to 700 odd based on the old 1000 ft lbs of energy theory.

    If you want short I'd go 308 of the two suggested.
    Werawhakaui?

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  4. #4
    Member Mathias's Avatar
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    If you are going to chop up a Finnlight with the factory fluted barrel, then maybe you should buy the stainless synthetic version 85 and chop it. Its cheaper to buy for a start.
    outdoorlad and shift14 like this.

  5. #5
    Member outdoorlad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mathias View Post
    If you are going to chop up a Finnlight with the factory fluted barrel, then maybe you should buy the stainless synthetic version 85 and chop it. Its cheaper to buy for a start.
    +1 and get it in 308
    Kiwi Greg, crewe2, shift14 and 1 others like this.
    Shut up, get out & start pushing!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mathias View Post
    If you are going to chop up a Finnlight with the factory fluted barrel, then maybe you should buy the stainless synthetic version 85 and chop it. Its cheaper to buy for a start.
    At the risk of sounding ignorant, can I ask why? Something to do with cutting the barrel back into the fluted section? And/or are you telling me the only difference between a Finnlight and S/S 85 is the flutes, and it would be better to get and 85, chop the barrel, and then flute that if so inclined?

    TIA.

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    Helluva a lot cheaper to buy a T3 and chop that...spend the extra $$$ on optics just my 2 :-)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by trooper90 View Post
    Helluva a lot cheaper to buy a T3 and chop that...spend the extra $$$ on optics just my 2 :-)
    Some people HATE rifles you cant topload.....just saying.
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    Good point right there!

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  10. #10
    Member Mathias's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx View Post
    At the risk of sounding ignorant, can I ask why? Something to do with cutting the barrel back into the fluted section? And/or are you telling me the only difference between a Finnlight and S/S 85 is the flutes, and it would be better to get and 85, chop the barrel, and then flute that if so inclined?

    TIA.
    Was referring that it could be a cost saving by buying the 85 SS if shortening. You could probably buy & do the surgery plus put money towards the suppressor with the difference in cost between the two rifles. However if you intended to flute it, then the advantage is lost.

  11. #11
    Member 10-Ring's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxx View Post
    At the risk of sounding ignorant, can I ask why? Something to do with cutting the barrel back into the fluted section? And/or are you telling me the only difference between a Finnlight and S/S 85 is the flutes, and it would be better to get and 85, chop the barrel, and then flute that if so inclined?

    TIA.
    I don't know whether it's feasible to shorten a barrel down to the fluted section. I had a 20" .308 Sako fluted barrel shortened to 18" and the chap at DPT said something along the lines of it being doable because the flutes had not been reached at 18".
    Never try to teach a pig to sing...
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by trooper90 View Post
    Helluva a lot cheaper to buy a T3 and chop that...spend the extra $$$ on optics just my 2 :-)
    That may be the most economically sensible thing to do but buying a rifle isn't always about economics for many of us. A concept many tight arses find hard to get their heads around. You also get some nice features with a Sako over a T3.
    Never try to teach a pig to sing...
    ...it wastes your time and annoys the pig!

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    Gimp seems to do plenty well with a 20 inch 260. 27-2800 should still be achievable with 140's no? go with the factory length and whack a suppressor on the end. Lop of an inch is you fancy it should still have you clear of the flutes. My rifle is an 18" plus can, honestly I dont think an extra 1 or 2 inches would make any practical difference in the bush

  14. #14
    Member SlimySquirrel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by veitnamcam View Post
    Some people HATE rifles you cant topload.....just saying.
    I thought the new T3X is supposed to have a bigger port for single feeding?

  15. #15
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    Yeah you still cant top of the mag though
    veitnamcam likes this.

 

 

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