After a load for a 308 with a 155 amax using ADI 2208.
18-20" barrel
Printable View
After a load for a 308 with a 155 amax using ADI 2208.
18-20" barrel
This is what worked very well in my wby vanguard with barrel at 21'', 45.5g of 2208, 155 a max, cci large rifle primers, COAL set at 2.840. good luck its not a hot load just mild and I didn't go any hotter when I was getting round 1/2'' groups at 100mQuote:
Originally Posted by Shootm
Same load in my rem 700 does 2680 fps and shoots 3/4 moa rather have good consistent groups than faster speed
Well, if you want a free lunch, just go to H&F and buy some ready made.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shootm
Or you could learn a useful skill and get the best out of YOUR rifle.
What is "not hot" in someone else's rifle could be disastrous in yours. Guess it depends on what you want to get out of reloading....
In fact, you've selected a powder, you know the projectile. All you need to do is load a ladder starting at the bottom and work your way up. Don't understand threads like this....
I agree with ebf.
I had 3 different 308 rifles and none used or shot well with the same load. One of. My loads shot like shit in another rifle identical to the other one I had.
Its load the best for your rifle not someone else's.
My thoughts a.yway
Anything above 45gr 2208 is a bit hot IMHO. I use Fed210 (M's if available), lapua match Brass, 155gr HBCs and 2208. I suggest you start at the min and go up 0.5gr to 45gr watching very carefully for primers burning through and getting squished. I really, really would not go above 45.5gr and there is no need to really IMHO. The only time you want to be in the 45gr range is when you want to be supersonic at 1000yds and have a 28/30inch barrel to do it with.
What are you bullet seating with? The amax has a secant ogive? if so you may ring the projectile if using say a Lee seating die, get the hornady seating die with the amax / secant bushing.
45 gr too hot behind a 155?!??
I ran 47gr behind a 168 in lapua brass with fed 215 primer and had good brass life.
Shows the importance of doing your own ladder for pressure in your own rifle.
Ah I see it is not a amax so sort of irrelevant in a amax load thread [emoji2]
ADI/Hodgdon data lists the max for 155 & 2208 as 47.
I would start at 46 & go up in halves from there, until you are comfortable with the performance & it isn't overloaded.
Chuck a Fed 215 in it & away you go or just use what ever primers you use in your 7-375, keeps it simple & the magnum primer may give you some more velocity :)
Obviously accuracy trumps velocity, every rifle is different, brass & powder batch also make a difference as does throat length etc etc etc ;)
[QUOTE=Kiwi Greg;360742]ADI/Hodgdon data lists the max for 155 & 2208 as 47.
Yeah thats what is in my ADI manual and I started at 44 and went up to 46 in .5grain increments found that it grouped very good at 45.5 and then just played around with seating depths.
Thanks to the guy's that actually wanted to help.
@Shootm, you don't get it do you ?
Asking for load recipes on the internet is not only dumb, it is dangerous...
You have guys on here that think the pressure for an amax would be the same as some other (very different shape and length) projectile, simply because it weighs the same... for fuck sake !!!
Then the 47.0 gr max is thrown about. That little red C next to it means "potentially compressed load". Maybe you are shooting a massively strong action and wear safety glasses when shooting, or maybe you shoot a 40year old rifle that can not take anywhere near those types of pressures...
It is not rocket science, begin at the start load, work your way up and see where you get pressure signs in YOUR rifle. All it takes is about 20 rounds to figure this shit out.
Grabs popcorn and heads to couch lets go[emoji1]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Settle down mate.
Only getting a gauge as to where guy's end up at with this combo. I know it's not one load for everyone.
Yet again I agree with ebf. Nothing greater than trying to open an action with a mallet and having your ears ringing even after wearing earmuffs.
Each rifle is different.
The cautions on the sites such as ADI are there to take blame away from them for the loaders potential stupidity of overloading. Better to be cautious than damage the rifle or your head/eyes.
But its your head that will get taken off not mine.
W*****s
I have found 46gr 2208 and a 150 iterloc touching the lands to shoot very well in every 308 I have tried it in (only about 12-14 rifles), mild load in all of them usually 2700-2800.
Yes but experience has shown me that the ADI/Hodgdon data is reasonably conservative.Quote:
Originally Posted by jim160
Imagine a blown up rifle in the States disclaimers or not on a manufactures site....
@ebf What is it that you think is so catastrophically bad about a compressed load?
Nothing VC...
If you have an action that can handle it...
If you have worked up to it and ensured that it is safe to use in a particular rifle...
If you take note of the ambient and ammunition temperature when testing, and keep this in mind for future shots...
Here is a little cautionary tale to explain, I have 4 different types of brass that I use for 308, collected over the years. If I take take the brass with the least case capacity, and use my perfectly safe load from some other brass, it generates enough pressure to blow the primer out of the case.... same load, same primer, same rifle, only difference is the brass...
I only ask because pretty much every load I have loaded for 308 has been compressed varying from lightly to "your bloody kidding right?".
No excessive pressure on any of them as slow powder for the weight.
Edit to add
Transferring a load that is already near max into another brass without knowledge of its volume and hardness is dumb, dumber than asking what works for others on the internet for sure.
Like others have said start low and work up. Personally I've gone up to 50 grains in once fired neck sized cases(more volume than full length sized cases). I definitely wouldn't recommend going that high however as it is hot.
If I was you I'd use AR2206H which for me works better in an 18 inch barrel.
Isn't that exactly what every guy asking for a "top end" load on the internet is automatically doing ? :D;)Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
I must have missed all these guys asking for "top end loads"
This ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shootm
One has to assume so he has some idea where he might "end up at" ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by ebf
Anyone who wants to run a starting load in an unknown gun near the max is someone I do not want to be near when the trigger is pulled.
Once you get to compressed then the pressures can climb really fast and its not something you should be doing as a beginner, especially as Ive yet to find a good reason that you have to anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
Nobody has suggested that tho have they [emoji14]Quote:
Originally Posted by steven
2208 desnt mind at all.
I would be more concerned about using a powder that quickly spikes near max than compressing 2208
@VC But when you comment on 46gr that is exactly what you imply. So an an example, I am just loading testing for my AR15 and I am starting with 10 rounds at the minimum and going up in 0.5gr but Ive not loaded the max this time around. I also have 3 x 62gr FMJs nominally the same from different manufacturers (and a 55gr CMJ) and I have done the same 40 rounds for each projectile so I have 160rounds to test, (plus my baselines). Maybe I am a bit overly careful but as an engineer Ive seen failures that have injured and even killed ppl.
Yea I am a engineer too.
Usually when things go bad it is due to a moments inattention by somebody.
Like gas bagging to your mate and loading the wrong powder ... leaving a cleaning rod in the barrel etc etc not from reading on the Internet.
You could drive your whole life at 40kph if it makes you feel safe but it wont stop the guy running a stop sign hitting you.
Danger is natures way of weeding out the morons.
Its us with osh etc that keep them around.
@steven @veitnamcam
question for you guys about the term "engineer" in NZ
where I am from an engineer used to be someone with a 4 year degree in engineering and was registered with a professional body (? IPENZ) ... does the same apply here ?
used to be someone with a 4 year practical degree here, now its any twat who fixes computers :wtfsmilie:
haha, yeah - that and "architect" :D
back in my day, it was something like tradesman (apprentice-ship), then technician (2-3 year polytech), then engineer (varsity).
I always thought that an engineer was the dude next to the driver on a train, how wrong i have been all these years thanks for putting me right
Yes that is the only true engineer!Quote:
Originally Posted by shooternz
yes and no.Quote:
Originally Posted by ebf
In the UK to be a "chartered" engineer you need to have a 4 year Hons engineering degree (which I have) and be a member of a professional body such as IMechE or CIBSE. Here in NZ I am not sure if there is such a legal status for engineer, I dont believe so. For instance I think "architect" in NZ does, yet its widely mis-used in IT for instance.
yes IPENZ, that is NZ institute for a "real" NZ engineer. I could have joined them but I was already a member of CIBSE and ImechE which was recognised world wide and it was costing me north of $1200 every January just for associate engineer in those 2, eek! (An associate is someone on the path to becoming chartered). Anyway I went off and worked in IT, better pay and way better job security and better work as well. Meanwhile in NZ the no8 bailing wire mentality rules. ie we have ppl who frankly are at best technicians but do cheap work that works most of the time and that customers are happy to pay for, good luck to them.
f*** mate next time yours breaks I will charge you until your a*s bleeds.Quote:
Originally Posted by veitnamcam
:thumbsup: