Does anyone know who I can get to anneal my cases in or around Manawatu?
Next question is do I size before or after annealing I'm picking afterwards?
But making sure I've got it right.
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Does anyone know who I can get to anneal my cases in or around Manawatu?
Next question is do I size before or after annealing I'm picking afterwards?
But making sure I've got it right.
Youre right. Best results you size after annealing.
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Its a diy job if you have a drill, socket set and a propane torch
You can do it by just holding the case in your hands, put the neck in the torch and turn gently until it's too hot to hold and you can see the slight color change (have the room darkened slightly) and then dump it in a bucket of water. Holding it in your hands guarantees that you won't over anneal it.
There are you tube videos showing you how to do it. The other good advice is to take a few old cases and over anneal them. Crush a few in plyers to get a feel for how soft the brass gets after a certain amount of annealing so you get a feel for how much is enough.
You are correct though, it's a whole lot simpler if someone shows you the first time.
I think NZ Hunter offer a annealing service?
+1for NZHunter
Yeh I got some done a couple of years ago by Greg. Excellent job but costly, but given the time to do the quantity I supplied the price was fair. He uses the ultimate, an induction heater. Since then have bought a Bench Source annealer and have never looked back. @Shootm if you just want to do a rejuvenate of your cases I would recommend sending them to NZHunter. I anneal every loading though so buying my own annealer was the only way to go. And yes, I had already done the stand them in water technique, the hold them in hand technique, and the long socket method. I didn't try the dipping in molten lead method which a lot of forum posters recommend but obviously haven't done themselves. :omg:
Just gas camping cooker will do it. No need for a propane torch.
Hold it by hand, when the neck shoulder has a blued tint, then its as far as you need.
Its around the same time as the case get too hot to hold.
Any more, then the metal is too soft.
If the case is glowing in daylight, you've pretty much stuffed the metal.
No need to douse in water after really, but it if you want to, go ahead.
Thanks team.
Might get in contact with NZ Hunter.
I'm looking to do the same might give it a go myself unless someone from Auckland wants a job I'll pay for the service
Didn't someone post up plans for a homemade machine a while back?
Yep
I made my own with parts from aliexpress
Works bloody good too. :thumbsup:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-C-i0Kr2jU
Cheers
Pete
How much to build me one Pete😆
@P38
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A small production run could be in order, to buy a factory one is about $600!
Good idea. Me first😆
Only need one for bulk .223 brass to be fair.
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@R93
$2.4million usd :)
Or slightly less if you supply all the parts. ;)
Cheers
Pete
Cheap at twice the price.😆
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Yep
That's what I thought.
A good keen man like you would build one of these in an afternoon.
I'll put up the link to the materials/parts list and cutting instructions
Here's the link
http://www.shootingaustralia.net/for...er-black-betty
Cheers
Pete
Can't even join as it says my email is invalid. It never has been anywhere else.
Any chance you could make it visable here?
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Ok here is a ebay list and a rough drawing of the dimension's i used to build my annealer.
First the rough measurement's. Your's can differ and you can chop n change this sizes as you like. This is a ball park guide ( well this is how i built mine ) Not i haven't put the exact hole placement in as it's determined by the first hole you drill ( main drum motor ) Leave the case feeder drum hole last to drill out.
The rough total build cost is $140 that's everything if you have to buy all the bit's new. For me it was $60 as i had scavenged bit's off my older build.
from Bunning's you will need:
1x Benzomatic pencil flame torch kit
1-2x100mm long 13mm hole eyelit bolt ( This will hold the torch. od on the brass tip is 12.7mm so the internal diamiter of the eyelit bolt must be 12.7-13mm )
Bolt's, nut's, washer's, ( m5 ) Mine was M6 but i had to drill out the motor mount's. m5 threadded rod ( for drum motor adjustment 3x75mm )
1-2x Small tube of Liquid nail's $2.50 each.
Wood screw's 20mm ( I used 8g 20mm hinge screws as that's what i had in the shed. )
35mm dress nail's ( this is to pin all the mdf till the Liq nail's set's ) or you can just buy longer screw's.
Bunning's also sell timber bracket's cheap that at of the right size and shape's. to use as a ramp and case hopper side's etc. also they sell angle also flashing ( easy to bend )
If i can think of anything else i'll add to the above list.
Skip's shithouse excuse of plan's :lol:
Update: the main motor drum hole and feeder hole is 30mm ( i did say 30-35 ) 30 would be better. Mine was 35 as that was a size i had in my hole saw kit i got a few year's ago
Attachment 44596
Ebay buying list: EDIT :facepalm: Thank you EBAY for having to make thing's difficult every time you update your site.
So i have come up with this to hope stop the link's turning into blank white boxes. ( NOTE: you will have to search for these as i no longer can use the link's ) Below will help your search in what i used for my build. ( i have added one extra item that i found that could be used as a torch holder )
Attachment 44597
As to the cable well i am assuming just about everyone has a old cable no longer getting used, from a old PC monitor etc you can use. ( If your like me you have a box of all sort's of cable's collected over the year's. ) The build can be as cheap as you want or as expensive as you want. It depend's on how good you are on scavenging bit's for the build. You can run it all off a battery if you wish like AusHunter. For a case stopper/holder in the drum you can use a bent up bit of coat hanger as a quick cheap option ( Like Adam did in his first build )
I don't want to do a step buy step instruction, I'm not Ikea nor is the build that complex to warrant it. As to the coupling's and case arbor we'll it's been stated i can help out there ( If and when 10 member's get together ) I will then buy the material and make them up for thos ten ( ten is the number as that's the min length's, i can buy the stuff ) If GregT is willing to do it great even better, as he has the gear at home to do it where i have to drive out to go use it.
Watch this vid pause it when needed to give you a rough idea :)
Drum width size will be up to you: Example is for me my smallest case is .223 ( i made the dum 35mm wide ) for my largest case i made a 45mm one ) If you have larger case's i would buy the next drum size up which i think is 6" ( which is also wider )
Legend.😆
Thanks Pete.
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Here's some more drawings that you will need
Attachment 44598Attachment 44599Attachment 44600
oh and it looks like Skips making them for sale.
So log onto the website and access the page if you want to buy rather than make one.
Cheers
Pete
Good info Pete . Cheers for posting.
+1 thanks Pete.
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I might have a go at one of those. I'd use one motor linked to both shafts as you ideally want them spinning at the same speed to keep in sync. Just rotate one shaft relative to the other to get the relative timing as you want. Wouldn't need to buy anything.
Just be careful and watch a few YouTube clips one I watched the guy was getting the brass way to hot compared to the other clips I watched
How can u tell? Most of the YouTube ones show guys not using Tempilaq to indicate. I use a high temp (shoulder area/inside neck) and low temp (base) to set up and then once I have the timing right away I go. Personally know of a guy who overcooked the base - result, a dramatically expanded base and primer pocket and lots of gas trying to escape backwards/jammed bolt.
They were really glowing like in one clip where they domoed a couple of times what colour a case goes when its to hot
Yeh, crazy. YouTube is bloody dangerous.
I did a test to destruction on my annealer. Using 308 CAC brass I increased the heating time from 4 secs in 1/4 sec intervals up to 8 secs. The best result was at 4 1/4secs. At that point the Tempilaq was indicating all good and when viewing down the neck (room darkened) there was a momentary dull glow as the annealer indexed. You had to look hard to see it. The 8 secs ones had the neck glowing red for around 3 secs and the low temp Tempilac melted right down to the rim.
Interestingly I then did some ADI brass with similar neck thickness to the CAC and I had to change the 4 1/4 secs time by 1/4sec to get a result the same as the CAC.
@P38, roughly what size is the pan you use as a drum?
So I'm off,
Attachment 44639Attachment 44640Attachment 44638Attachment 44636Attachment 44637
:thumbsup:
The clamps are really good wee things for $20 odd from supercheap auto stores. They are quite weak but Ok for light work like this.
un-fortunately the wife has buggered her leg so is laid up in bed and cant catch me working on the dining room table.
:cool:
@gadgetman
It's 5" to us children from the 60's :P
Or
127mm for you younger buggers ;)
Cheers
Pete
Yeah where do you get the pan?
All electronic parts including the pan came from Aliexpress
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-inc...451318400_6150
Cheers
Pete