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Am new to cast reloading. Loaded up a dummy round this morning to try in my 30-30. It cycles ok but the rifling leaves a slight (5mm long) mark on the proj. Its sized seated to the crimping groove, Not hard to chamber or eject. Was planning to use 20-22 grain of IMR3031.
Is this normal with cast?
Attachment 44765Attachment 44766
Do you crimp? I imagine it would be fun if eventually you chamber one and when you try to eject the round without firing it and the projectile stays in the rifling and dumps a bunch of powder through the action
Yep, crimped.
Have a play around with seating depth. Because they are lead they get marked easier compared to jacketed projectiles.
If I seat it any deeper I can not crimp in the groove: Attachment 44767
They look to be right lengthwise, if its rifling there will be 6 evenly spaced marks round the bullet. Only one on top is the bullet catching the edge of the chamber as it loads and thats no drama. With that much engraving if its rifling they must be a bitch to chamber.
What weight pill and what type of mould?
Its rifling marks but just kind of rubbing on the prj. Its chambers without any issue. Do you think its ok to shoot it like this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty Henry
Its 150grain, don't know what mold. I bought them ready to load.
Don't worry about it the bullet is designed as a bore rider the bullet nose is to long and unsupported so if it didn't ride the bore it would slump when fired, if it chambers without forcing it not a problem
it will extract just fine, the 30/30 is one of the best cast bullet calibres it can shoot cast bullets to the same velocity as jacketed bullets you should never have to buy expensive jacketed bullets again,
you can tailor the lead mix to what you require for hunting don't make them to hard 50/50 wheel weights and pure lead is good for up to 1900fps,
Welcome to the real bullet club
What type of crimping die do you have? Are you just using the crimping function in the seating die or do you have a separate crimping die. I use a Lee Factory crimp die which will crimp into cast even if you haven't lined up with the cannelure so I can seat further in and still crimp.
@Boar Freak
Bloody good projectiles those. :thumbsup:
Looks like your all good to go.
I believe ShooterNZ is correct and these are bore rider projectiles
Google bore rider projectiles and have a good read.
Cheers
Pete
Thanks Shooter, do you know what mold makes these projectiles?Quote:
Originally Posted by shooternz
I use a Lee Classic (am a cheap bastard :D) until I use up the sized brass. Just got an RCBS press given by a friend quitting reloading last week so have to track down some dies. Will get one of those factory crimp ones they looked good.Quote:
Originally Posted by zimmer
Thanks Pete, will load up a couple live ones tomorrow and see what happens.Quote:
Originally Posted by P38
If it is a bore rider how come the ogive has been engraved by the rifling? I would expect the ogive to be at land diameter and the driving bands at groove diameter.
Mine it is a custom made mould from SloveniaQuote:
Originally Posted by Boar Freak
The nose measures .301" the bore .300" it would not be a bore rider if it did not touch the barrel.Quote:
Originally Posted by zimmer
It dosent look like your projectiles are seated too far out. Also those marks don't look much like rifling to me, looks like marks from the guide ramp or side of the chamber entrance.
If you want to know how far the rifling really is try to work out your seating depth (One method):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmDi7v530Og
I think you will find there is still some spare space.
its a good thing, the boolit is near fully supported and engaged with the rifling
your powder choice for around 1600fps is a good place to start, which has plenty of power, especially with that boolit design, BIG flatpoints are deadly
with the usual 1-10 twist of most.30/30s going over 1800fps accuracy usually drops off for most reloaders
be interested to see what groups you get . .. do make sure all copper is out of the bore before you start
A report on accuracy and performance would be good. Ive been shooting cast in various calibres for 45 years and enjoy seeing a shooter move into cast. If that is a Mihec mould projectile it should perform well up to 1800fps. Another great load especially for goats is 10grains of AP70.
@shooternz
I have loaded up a few rounds this morning, there are 3-7 sticks of powder left in the barrel after each shot. 22 grain of 3031 put the first 2 rounds to the same POI with factory 150GR flat points. The third went low. Pulled the barrel clean after each shot, after the low shot I found the most powder. Attachment 44918
I think my powder is past its best before date, its one of those old tin containers. Am using Federal No 210 primers, never had an issue with it in my 308Win. The barrel length is 17 inch.
Is it the powder or me doing something wrong?
I have only a small amount of powder left so I don't mind buying something more suitable.I would like to have this a mild load. Liked the 20 grain of 3031, almost no recoil at all but left a fair bit of unburned stuff.
Ignore the hole on the far right of the picture, that's from the 308Win. Forgot to cross it.
Perhaps a powder with more density to fill your case and get a more consistent burn? Also could try magnum primers. Had the same issue with my 45-70.
Slow powders like 3031 should not be used for reduced loads below what is recomended due to the possability of a S.E.E. . Better to use a faster powder like unique , AP 50, AP70, Bulleye ,even 2400 .This will give you a more consistant powder burn. Check out the castboolit website ,there is literally thousands of posts re 3030 .
Looks more like damage from feeding to me.
Your powder could past it's best I have an old tin of 3031 it is not working like it should as well, if you want to keep the velocity about what you are getting try AR2205 !6.0 grains will give you about 1500 fps and more pressureQuote:
Originally Posted by Boar Freak
than 3031 and still be safe max load is 22.0 grains, 3031 is a good powder for jacketed bullets at factory type loads could be a bit slow burning for cast at medium velocity, got an email from a guy that killed a Fallow deer with this bullet at the weekend that's the third Fallow in a couple of months so they are working ok.
They look like they shoot ok! Best advice is go to a faster powder, cast bullets dont give enough resistance to develop the pressure slow powders need resulting in partly burnt grains. This affects accuracy by giving inconsistent pressure between shots. I use 10 grains of blue dot or 14 of 4227 foraround 1400 fps with a 180 gr lee bullet and no gas check.
Thanks guys, I will get some different powder.
@shooternz I don't have any issue with the bullets , am just new to cast reloading that's why am asking so many questions. Did only 2 years of reloading before, the same 308 jacketed load what I got right the first time (by accident) :D
I was due to follow up on the cast loads for a while now so here it is. Ended up with AR2207 so can use the same powder in the 7,62x39 too. Changed to Federal Match primers. After a bit of mucking around I got this with 17grs. But I think my crimping is inconsistent, stuffed up some of the necks with the die (Lee loader) so will get a proper set of dies with factory crimp d. So far the only victim to it was a sick 2yo Jersey bull from 20yds, he needed only one. Had this round with me during sika roar but had really bad luck and limited time so couldn't try it on deer yet. Its a real fun load to shoot, I have to buy some more now. Thanks for the help guys.
Attachment 49394 @shooternz @Driverman
Now start loading some FFG Black powder in a few, adds to the excitment!!:cool:
It is fun but for me after 3 shots accuracy goes south, the 1:10 twist fouls too quickly. I have tried beeswax washers with card under the bullet and paper patching with no sucess, so now I "cheat" if I want the cowboy look and add a couple of grains of 2f to the smokeless load. Watching someone not expecting it is priceless.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maca49
