Attachment 126912
Needs a bit of prep and watch out for corroded case necks.
Printable View
Attachment 126912
Needs a bit of prep and watch out for corroded case necks.
Attachment 126913
This is getting pulled.
seems to vary quite a bit, I got some a couple of months ago and they were all pretty good (the cases that is)
Ditto, but mine came from a North Island supplier. I suspect that they on sold their "best" first and now they are getting to the "Less attractive" as I heard it being damned as having been "stored under water" by a South Islander buyer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tentman
The GC Greek HXP (Hellenic Xartridge Co) was stored 40 odd years in phosphated steel stripper clips causing some galvanic corrosion to the outsides. That is, it's NOT an inside-to-outside corrosion, but rather external and (mostly) superficial.
The black grainy gunk around the cartridge rim is the black phosphating from the stripper clip that's come off when GC (somewhat greedily) separated the stripper clips for separate sale at $20 for five.
For what it's worth, I've experienced 2 duds from 100rds.
I paid $1 a round... got 700 rounds, so far so good. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan
I dont have any that look like the first photo, i fact some look like they were made yesterday, others some blemishing, but still nothing like the photo's above.
Bought 300 rounds of it @$89 per 100
Chucked some of it through the dry tumbler came out looking a bit better.
Yet to try it out. The PPU 180gr soft point shoots not bad.
Some of the rounds theyre selling also have sunken projectiles.
Havent shot any of mine yet but they arent corroded like OPs.
As for the PPU, the cheapest anywhere is $35/20. You'd expect a bit more.
I got some yonks ago for my P14 303. I'm pretty certain that they all didn't (only a dozen or so) have the same oomph. The first one was pretty light. It had been years since I fired a 30' but it only felt like my 243. some later definitely had more. Subjective I know but that's what it felt like.
Any good ideas for getting a separated neck out of a chamber after SIL tried to reload and couldn't chamber the next round? Sigh. Shitty old ammo not worth the hassle I'm thinking. Anyway the piece of neck brass is well and truly lodged. I'm thinking of driving a lead ball down from the muzzle as in barrel slugging in the hope's it will dislodge. Comments? Suggestions?
Google 'split case extractor'
Take a longer-than-barrel length of unthreaded rod-1/4" diameter and cut a 1" slot in one end. Sharpen the inside edge ends with a file. Spread the ends wider than the inside diameter of the case. Push the rod in from the chamber end and pull the rod at the muzzle end until the spreaded slot is well inside the broken case. It will compress inside the case and when you tap the rod from the muzzle end, the sharpened ends of the slot will dig in to the case walls and the case will come out of the chamber.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhon
It shoots well as was made on ex Winchester plant sold to the Greeks. It’s loaded with a powder similar to win 748. Some of it has definitely suffered from moisture issues based on the cases I’ve seen and the misfires. Generally its good stuff and the brass is excellent
Sometimes you can have success with a bronze cleaning brush but from what you have said mmmmm maybe not.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jhon
That leaves Kiwi Sapper's method or a commercial broken case extractor as suggested.
I have also seen the outcome of someone using a modified round file - don't do that.
I've never heard of the neck separating from the case at the shoulder. Is that what happened ?
I used to pull out cases where the head separated, with a small saw blade that I carried for cutting off velvet.
Perhaps try a small woodsaw like a coping saw or jigsaw blade.
Try presoaking with a penetrating oil like CRC 5.56, WD40 or Kroil.
I think the story of shops selling ammo that been underwater is an urban legend. Last one I heard was from lake Taupo.
Hopefully Jhon has received enough ideas to assist with his "neck" problem.
We all know that a broken case extractor is a worthy investment. Especially for reloaders, and even more especially so for 303 reloaders. However, I wonder if my Milsurp 303 case extractor is all I need when I move onto reloading 308?
Opinions please.
Use quality brass and you’ll never need it.
Greetings All.
Getting back to the Greek ammo. A month or so back a young chap turned up at our club with a pretty decent P14, probably a BSA Model B and some of the Greek ammo. He wasn't troubling the centre of the target much and some misfires and one pill going through the target sideways suggested it was not all him. We helped him out a bit with the rock hard recoil pad and the joys of handloading for a .303. Even the cases that misfired were pretty uniform for weight and shot well when reloaded so with a softer recoil pad he was good to go. A week or so back he was back with some better looking Greek ammo and some hand loads. Both shot well. I suspect that the grubbier ammo may have been cleaned up in some type of vibrating or tumbling cleaner. This should never be done with live ammo for a number of reasons. Still at least the brass was still good.
Regards Grandpamac.
Indeed, aside from the 2 duds mentioned, the rest did what they were supposed to do. 🙂Quote:
Originally Posted by grunzter
