What I’ve done a few times over the years is work out what my maximum effective range is by actually testing it. An old door or plastic drum works well… prop it up with a decent sized cross painted / inked along the top and shoot at the cross from various ranges, without changing your point of aim (I.e. always aim at the centre of the cross). If you have a 100 meter zero then shoot at it from 300m, 400m.
Two variables will become immediately apparent.
First you will see what your drops really are compared to how they are calculated in your ballistic solver. This information will allow you to tune your MV (or BC if you are that way inclined) so that you have a really good understanding of your elevation adjustments. At least three data sets for this - 5 shot zero, then two groups of five shots at increasing range. It gets better the more groups you have but you have to be pragmatic.
Secondly you will see what your groups’ dispersion is like. This can be anything from really tight to quite alarming, but you really need to know before you go and shoot at animals. If you are getting a much wider dispersion then you are expecting at say 400m, then you need to work out why and get it under control. I think most of us older guys have seen some pretty funky stuff happening downrange that leads to much head scratching. Like if it’s on at 100 why is it like a shotgun at 400, etc.
Most of the suggestions of your realistic range are reasonable (some are probably a bit high) but entirely unproven with your setup of course. Believe me you will feel much much more confident shooting at range if you have proven to yourself that you are both accurate & precise at that range.
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