Thread: Reloading the .338 Lapua

Hi all, i'm looking for some advice for reloading for the .338 Lapua Magnum, I've decided to sell my .300 win mag and take the next big step. I've ordered a Savage 110 .338 with the HS precision stock, but as you can imagine, I want to reload to avoid spending stupid amounts of money on ammo. I have a Lee Challenger press, and indeed to use Berger 300 grain OTM hybrid bullets, Norma brass and probably ADI 2225, but can anyone recommend a set of dies? I will be shooting long range, mainly metallic silhouette targets and want to push out to 2k eventually. I've read that neck sizing isn't enough for repeated loadings for the .338, and using a FL die to "bump" the shoulder is recommended, but can someone explain what this means? And what die/dies will I need? In the past I have just neck-sized for the .308 and .300 WM, (both bolt actions) and my knowledge of the reloading terminology is probably a little rusty. Accuracy is obviously important so I don't mind paying for decent gear, if need be. I would prefer not to buy a new press, but I will if I need to. I have read that Redding dies are supposed to be very good.
Any advice is appreciated, cheers

I think you'll find you will no matter what, you will be spending stupid money to shoot a .338Lapua enough to have success at 2Km. 90 odd grains of powder, expensive brass and projectiles.
Everytime you fire a case it will become a bit more 'snug' in your chamber until eventually it becomes very hard to open and close the bolt. A full length sizing die reduces all the dimensions of the fired case so it will fit into any factory chamber easily. It also works the brass more than neck sizing obviously so some people choose to only full length size every few cycles.
Redding dies are fine. Any .338Lapua dies that use an expander ball can be hard work with a cheap press.
Forster dies are also very good and sometimes cheaper than redding.

redding bushing dies, dont mess round with expander balls

+1 to what K95 said.

I use Lee neck collet dies, Redding body dies, Redding/Forster full size dies and Forster Ultraseater dies on a Rockchucker press.

But for .338LM, go for this

http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadin...CC_338%20Lapua

Have a read thru this will give you some interesting info, feel free to pm. . . . .

http://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co.n...-338-lm-14914/

Don't mess around with Norma 338 Lapua brass it's shit. Just use Lapua brass.

Originally Posted by L.R

Don't mess around with Norma 338 Lapua brass it's shit. Just use Lapua brass.

Wouldn't be overloading would you.

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It's pretty well known Norma brass can't handle loads Lapua does with ease. Norma can't even handle starting loads in some cases.

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Wouldn't be overloading would you.

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I know I'm not because I have my ammo tested. Not trying to start a shit fight are you? I hope not.

Is Norma brass really that bad? I've used Norma for the .300WM and Lapua for the .308 and have been very happy with results for both. There seems to be a lot of Redding gear available, how do the bushing dies work? And the expander ball ones? Sorry if those are stupid questions, thanks

Originally Posted by tommygun

Is Norma brass really that bad? I've used Norma for the .300WM and Lapua for the .308 and have been very happy with results for both. There seems to be a lot of Redding gear available, how do the bushing dies work? And the expander ball ones? Sorry if those are stupid questions, thanks

Note I said don't use 338 Lapua Norma brass, not all Norma brass. It's very good quality brass although a little on the soft side, however there 338 Lapua cases for some reason can't even handle a very mild load without a full length size. This was common among 338 Lapua shooters a few years ago and Norma may have altered the brass now, however I don't think you will find many people using it even tho it is much cheaper than the Lapua. The Lapua case if without doubt worth the extra money especially if you want to shoot high volumes at steel.

Was tongue in cheek.

Use a hornady headspace comparator and vernier caliper to measure fireformed shoulder dimension.

I bump shoulder back every single time, but this is for high accuracy long range target reloading, so consistent case dimensions is important to me. See my earlier comment about working the neck, if you can bump the shoulder without working the neck, then you have a win both ways.

Thanks guys, is there a special technique/tool for measuring the dimensions of a fireformed case (i.e. chamber size)? Do people bump the shoulder back every time or would that stress the brass too much?

Doesn't look like Lee makes a 338 collet neck die, so I guess you're stuck with the Redding Bushing Neck Die.

Use a Redding Body Die to bump the shoulder back. If you already have a FL die, you could always unscrew the decapping pin and drill out the neck portion to turn it into a body die.

I use a body die and then collet neck die (non magnum calibers), this works the neck the least out of all the options. But in 338 you are limited to what dies are available.