Thread: Sighting in a rifle on a short range

I often sight my rifles in at 25 metres, only one shot at a time, 2 or 3 to get smack on. But then I verify it at 100 with a 3 shot group. Most times I can get it all done with less than 7 shots. And most of my rifles are bang on at 25, 3" high at 100, approx 3" high at 200, and approx 3x3=9" low at 300. The old 3x3x3 rule.
And I will boresight it at 25 as well so that if I have an accident I can boresight it in camp at 25 and know that I'm pretty close to the mark, then fire just one shot at 25 to verify it again.

Originally Posted by Husky1600

I often sight my rifles in at 25 metres, only one shot at a time, 2 or 3 to get smack on. But then I verify it at 100 with a 3 shot group. Most times I can get it all done with less than 7 shots. And most of my rifles are bang on at 25, 3" high at 100, approx 3" high at 200, and approx 3x3=9" low at 300. The old 3x3x3 rule.
And I will boresight it at 25 as well so that if I have an accident I can boresight it in camp at 25 and know that I'm pretty close to the mark, then fire just one shot at 25 to verify it again.

@Husky1600
So I have a Q on this
With you rifle smack on at 25m - when you then shoot at 100m - are the shots left or right of target - or - just high or low - hopefully you will not say all 4 :-)

The problem sighting in a 25 metres is getting the windage right a few mm left or right will make a big difference at 100 and 200 metres your wind zero needs to be verified at 100 metres or better
200 if you plan on shooting that far.

Originally Posted by shooternz

The problem sighting in a 25 metres is getting the windage right a few mm left or right will make a big difference at 100 and 200 metres your wind zero needs to be verified at 100 metres or better
200 if you plan on shooting that far.

@shooternz
When you say "windage" you are not meaning a breeze or wind - but this is to do with how the projectile spins out of a specific barrel (as in all rifles have a different effect/reaction on this)
So distance is needed to ascertain this sideways movement - whereas short range will not show its exaggeration/extent of

Originally Posted by Sarvo

@shooternz
When you say "windage" you are not meaning a breeze or wind - but this is to do with how the projectile spins out of a specific barrel (as in all rifles have a different effect/reaction on this)
So distance is needed to ascertain this sideways movement - whereas short range will not show its exaggeration/extent of

No hes refering to left to right zeroing, ideally you are in the centre. Spindrift is the effect from the rifling but wint matter at the ranges you are talking about

I have found that most my rifles will print no more than .5 inch low at 25 yards and should be around the 2-3 inch high at 100 yards for a 200 yard zero. Using this you can sight in at the closer range and be reasonably certain the longer shots will be on. Still pays to check at distance to verify it as being correct.

Originally Posted by Gibo

No hes refering to left to right zeroing, ideally you are in the centre. Spindrift is the effect from the rifling but wint matter at the ranges you are talking about

Bloody hell Gibo - now I am confused again
left to right zeroing ???
Can you elaborate please

Just added up - this Sunday I would have clocked up 55 years of gun/rifle ownership and use (not that a 7 year old should have had "ownership" at 7
And I still know FA - not to mention can't hit a barn wall inside with the door shut :-(

I have had the offer of a Rifle Range not to far from here - so I think I should sightin to the best of my ability and then go there and get someone to long range shoot for me (and waste a bit of lead myself for the fun of it)

Once you have your desired zero sorted ( 100 or 200 yards) set a target up at 25 yards and shoot a group and note the point of impact so you can use the information at a later date and if you only have a short range available you can use the info and will be confident it will be OK at the longer ranges.

Originally Posted by Sarvo

I have had the offer of a Rifle Range not to far from here - so I think I should sightin to the best of my ability and then go there and get someone to long range shoot for me (and waste a bit of lead myself for the fun of it)

No. I would suggest that you need to see where YOU hit at 200 not the other person. I have found in the past that what is set up as bang on for me will have a different point of impact for someone else. (technique, consistency even where you put your eye all have a minor effect) For sighting in I use as much bracing or steadys that I can like proper rests, and so on. This takes your wobble out as much as possible and confirms where you are shooting. If you wobble enough that this is not possible then I would have to suggest that you wont be in a condition to shoot at an animal at that range either. Bear in mind that while you are aiming at a smaller target, as long as you can hit an A4 page or a dinner plate consistently, that is as accurate as you need. If you get to sa distance that you cannot keep all you shots on that page, that is your range that you are capable of a clean hit in an animal. Any further is spray and pray and ethically getting into dodgy habits. I always remind shooters that your range of accuracy is more important than the rifles accuracy. 1 MOA means 5 shades of F all if you give the rifle to a 2 VHA shooter (Very Huge Angle...)

Personally I do not see it as a waste of ammo to practise.

I can now shoot reasonably well but I used to struggle to hit a barn door from inside a barn made of doors....

Windage is easy.It is the left right version of the elevation turret on your scope. Adjusting elevation is the up/down turret, and windage is the left/right adjustment. While it is pronounced windage as in win-dige it can help to think of it as not as wind as in it is windy outside but as in to wind a clock) Whine-dige (bloody stupid english language....why did I not learn another one when I was younger? Now I am stuck with this one)

Originally Posted by Gibo

No hes refering to left to right zeroing, ideally you are in the centre. Spindrift is the effect from the rifling but wint matter at the ranges you are talking about

Right on Gibo, To make it easier to under stand if the point of impact is 1" left of point of aim at 25 yds/m at 100yds/m it is 4" left at 200 yds/m it is 8" so the wind zero needs to be verified at longer range
as well as the vertical zero,
spin drift is only a problem at extend ranges I used to put 1 and a 1/2 MOA left windage on my F class rifles at 1000 yds to counter spin drift
I think spin drift is caused by velocity loss as the velocity decreases the spin from the rifling has greater effect on the bullet causing it to veer off.

Originally Posted by timattalon

No. I would suggest that you need to see where YOU hit at 200 not the other person. I have found in the past that what is set up as bang on for me will have a different point of impact for someone else. (technique, consistency even where you put your eye all have a minor effect) For sighting in I use as much bracing or steadys that I can like proper rests, and so on. This takes your wobble out as much as possible and confirms where you are shooting. If you wobble enough that this is not possible then I would have to suggest that you wont be in a condition to shoot at an animal at that range either. Bear in mind that while you are aiming at a smaller target, as long as you can hit an A4 page or a dinner plate consistently, that is as accurate as you need. If you get to sa distance that you cannot keep all you shots on that page, that is your range that you are capable of a clean hit in an animal. Any further is spray and pray and ethically getting into dodgy habits. I always remind shooters that your range of accuracy is more important than the rifles accuracy. 1 MOA means 5 shades of F all if you give the rifle to a 2 VHA shooter (Very Huge Angle...)

Personally I do not see it as a waste of ammo to practise.

I can now shoot reasonably well but I used to struggle to hit a barn door from inside a barn made of doors....

Windage is easy.It is the left right version of the elevation turret on your scope. Adjusting elevation is the up/down turret, and windage is the left/right adjustment. While it is pronounced windage as in win-dige it can help to think of it as not as wind as in it is windy outside but as in to wind a clock) Whine-dige (bloody stupid english language....why did I not learn another one when I was younger? Now I am stuck with this one)

I hear what you are saying and others on here about shooting to "one’s own" capability
You see - on animals I have no problem
I would never shoot at a moving animal or one on the edge of bush/scrub over 100m - only one that was in open terrain and more than likely with someone as back up over 200m

So - not trying to discredit your comments above - but you say ""I use as much bracing or steadys that I can like proper rests""
That isn’t going to be the case out in the wilds shooting at animals – if you get my point.

As I said above I have shoot rifle & gun for 55 years now
I have never been good at target shooting apart from Trap (shotgun) competitions

However - I would have shot in excess of 5000 animals in my time and apart from a timeframe with a Mini14 that had the old Wichita base system that was a complete arse - I rarely a wounded animal.

What I still do not understand (call me stupid or just call me dumb) but if I can hit a 20c piece consistently at say 40m (my max comfort distance for sighting in) why should that shot be way off out at 150 - 200
If I get the formula for rise correct at 40m (say 1.5" low of bull) it should be a killable shot out to 200m ???

It’s been an interesting read on this thread and I will be trying a few options mentioned that I can do myself here in my limited terrain.

Originally Posted by timattalon

No. I would suggest that you need to see where YOU hit at 200 not the other person. I have found in the past that what is set up as bang on for me will have a different point of impact for someone else. (technique, consistency even where you put your eye all have a minor effect) For sighting in I use as much bracing or steadys that I can like proper rests, and so on. This takes your wobble out as much as possible and confirms where you are shooting. If you wobble enough that this is not possible then I would have to suggest that you wont be in a condition to shoot at an animal at that range either. Bear in mind that while you are aiming at a smaller target, as long as you can hit an A4 page or a dinner plate consistently, that is as accurate as you need. If you get to sa distance that you cannot keep all you shots on that page, that is your range that you are capable of a clean hit in an animal. Any further is spray and pray and ethically getting into dodgy habits. I always remind shooters that your range of accuracy is more important than the rifles accuracy. 1 MOA means 5 shades of F all if you give the rifle to a 2 VHA shooter (Very Huge Angle...)

Personally I do not see it as a waste of ammo to practise.

I can now shoot reasonably well but I used to struggle to hit a barn door from inside a barn made of doors....

Windage is easy.It is the left right version of the elevation turret on your scope. Adjusting elevation is the up/down turret, and windage is the left/right adjustment. While it is pronounced windage as in win-dige it can help to think of it as not as wind as in it is windy outside but as in to wind a clock) Whine-dige (bloody stupid english language....why did I not learn another one when I was younger? Now I am stuck with this one)

I hear what you are saying and others on here about shooting to "one’s own" capability
You see - on animals I have no problem
I would never shoot at a moving animal or one on the edge of bush/scrub over 100m - only one that was in open terrain and more than likely with someone as back up over 200m

So - not trying to discredit your comments above - but you say ""I use as much bracing or steadys that I can like proper rests""
That isn’t going to be the case out in the wilds shooting at animals – if you get my point.

As I said above I have shoot rifle & gun for 55 years now
I have never been good at target shooting apart from Trap (shotgun) competitions

However - I would have shot in excess of 5000 animals in my time and apart from a timeframe with a Mini14 that had the old Wichita base system that was a complete arse - I rarely had a wounded animal.

What I still do not understand (call me stupid or just call me dumb) but if I can hit a 20c piece consistently at say 40m (my max comfort distance for sighting in) why should that shot be way off out at 150 - 200
If I get the formula for rise correct at 40m (say 1.5" low of bull) it should be a killable shot out to 200m ???

It’s been an interesting read on this thread and I will be trying a few options mentioned that I can do myself here in my limited terrain.

Big thanks to all – something I do not mind admitting is – you (me for sure) never stop learning something new even as an oldie

You just need to make sure it is spot on at the closer range or if not check it further.
If its half an inch left at 25y it will be 2 inches at 100y and 4 inches left at 200y and so on.
So key is making sure your closer zero is absoulty bang on.

Sent from my SM-A320Y using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Gibo

Is that you making all the mess around the port

Nah thats the palm kernel people, salts nice and clean, and white! How was the fushing.... saw heaps go out.
That wasnt you guys in the wake board boat with the disco lights and bad boy speakers....... nice man bun