Thread: 300blk vs 6.5 grendel with short barrels

If howa made a SS 300blk with a standard weight or light weight barrel in the same twist rate as their porky blued ones id definitely have one
its just not worth turning down the barrel or dealing with a blued rifle
they just need a good stock and the floorplate that seems to be on the way

Originally Posted by Bill999

If howa made a SS 300blk with a standard weight or light weight barrel in the same twist rate as their porky blued ones id definitely have one
its just not worth turning down the barrel or dealing with a blued rifle
they just need a good stock and the floorplate that seems to be on the way

But if you are shortening it back to 10 - 12" it will be fairly light though won't it? and possibly a little more accurate if it is a heavy barrel?

Also see @300_BLK comments on the heavy barrel weighing the same as the lightweight.

RE: non stainless - if you got the barrel cerakoted which wouldn't cost too much should be sweet as long as you clean it ?

Originally Posted by 308mate

But if you are shortening it back to 10 - 12" it will be fairly light though won't it? and possibly a little more accurate if it is a heavy barrel?

Also see @300_BLK comments on the heavy barrel weighing the same as the lightweight.

RE: non stainless - if you got the barrel cerakoted which wouldn't cost too much should be sweet as long as you clean it ?

I can see the ocean from where I live/work and the wind is blows enough salt air to me that it burns the tip of the leaves on the trees at my house
not to mention the humidity being this far north, it usually rains all the time. Blued is just not an option here
ceracote option from memory was 150 more thru humping and fisting.

Originally Posted by Bill999

I can see the ocean from where I live/work and the wind is blows enough salt air to me that it burns the tip of the leaves on the trees at my house
not to mention the humidity being this far north, it usually rains all the time. Blued is just not an option here
ceracote option from memory was 150 more thru humping and fisting.

Does that include the hump and the fisting?

The Grendel only needs 14.5" of barrel to get its maximum velocity from a 123gr bullet. Use BM 8208 and it can get you 2500fps no drama.
I load mine to 2450fps and have shot it to 500m with great accuracy. It holds about the same energy as a 100gr .243 win at that range.

Personally I wouldnt go any shorter than that with the Grendel. You mention you want the suppressor to come all the way back to the stock,
most popular over barrel suppressors are 110 to 120mm rearward of the threads shoulder so 14-15" barrels achieve this in most stocks.

This is my 14.5" barrelled Grendel in a std stock and a chassis











If you intend to go as short as 11-12" you will have to use a muzzle can instead which will give you the same over all length when fitted as a 14-15" barrel fitted with an overbarrel suppressor.
for this reason alone you are better to keep with the 14-15" which will give you more velocity from any cartridge you decide on without effecting your over all suppressed length.

As an example heres my 7.62x39 15.5" barrel fitted with a compact hardy overbarrel suppressor next to a 13" long .22 Grendel barrel fitted wit a DPT can with the std 5 baffles. They are the same OAL when fitted to the rifle.

Originally Posted by Wingman

The Grendel only needs 14.5" of barrel to get its maximum velocity from a 123gr bullet. Use BM 8208 and it can get you 2500fps no drama.
I load mine to 2450fps and have shot it to 500m with great accuracy. It holds about the same energy as a 100gr .243 win at that range.

Personally I wouldnt go any shorter than that with the Grendel. You mention you want the suppressor to come all the way back to the stock,
most popular over barrel suppressors are 110 to 120mm rearward of the threads shoulder so 14-15" barrels achieve this in most stocks.

This is my 14.5" barrelled Grendel in a std stock and a chassis











If you intend to go as short as 11-12" you will have to use a muzzle can instead which will give you the same over all length when fitted as a 14-15" barrel fitted with an overbarrel suppressor.
for this reason alone you are better to keep with the 14-15" which will give you more velocity from any cartridge you decide on without effecting your over all suppressed length.

As an example heres my 7.62x39 15.5" barrel fitted with a compact hardy overbarrel suppressor next to a 13" long .22 Grendel barrel fitted wit a DPT can with the std 5 baffles. They are the same OAL when fitted to the rifle.

Attachment 136395

Attachment 136396

That CZ chassis is so rad

Originally Posted by gimp

That CZ chassis is so rad

Cheers mate... I made another one for a Remington 788 in .30BR for a mate too

Originally Posted by Wingman

Cheers mate... I made another one for a Remington 788 in .30BR for a mate too

How many hours in one of those?

Originally Posted by gimp

How many hours in one of those?

Hard to say as I just tick away at them when I get a couple of hours spare in the evenings. If I had a good crack at one Id say about 25-30 hours from billet to duracoat.
Most of the time is in the machine set up.
The .30BR took a bit longer because I rebarreled it from .22-250 Rem and had to mod the trigger to work in the chassis. I photographed the whole process but havent had time to write up a build thread. Ill see if the owner can share some more pics etc in a new thread.

Originally Posted by Wingman

Cheers mate... I made another one for a Remington 788 in .30BR for a mate too

AHHH if only I had a mill, and a lathe for that matter.

The howa 300BLK is a ‘heavy barrel’ but because of that larger bore diameter it comes in at the same weight of the 223 mini lightweight.

So if you shorten it it will be pretty compact

Yeah that's what we all want to know hey

Will start a new thread shortly rather than highjak this one.

One off builds are really not cost/time effective so if I was to sell them Id design a bunch and have them cnc cut for popular models. The Yanky chassis certainly are not going to get any cheaper or easier to import so New Zealand manufacturers need to up their game and offer something under the $500 mark

Originally Posted by Wingman

Will start a new thread shortly rather than highjak this one.

One off builds are really not cost/time effective so if I was to sell them Id design a bunch and have them cnc cut for popular models. The Yanky chassis certainly are not going to get any cheaper or easier to import so New Zealand manufacturers need to up their game and offer something under the $500 mark

This. An absolute bare bones chassis, threaded at one end for an AR barrel nut, one end for a buffer tube, and a grip mounting interface is a thing we need. Even just left in the white.

Originally Posted by Beavis

This. An absolute bare bones chassis, threaded at one end for an AR barrel nut, one end for a buffer tube, and a grip mounting interface is a thing we need. Even just left in the white.

Yeah it is just a pain to get hold of an AR barrel nut and hand guard now isn't it?