No problems. The tapered dovetail is a rock.
Here it is on the one piece "Ringmount" version:
Here is an older model. showing the two piece system. The hex screw holds the rings onto a base, which fits onto the action dovetail. This enables a variety of offset bases to be used and a variety of ring diameters to be paired to it. I have had the hex screw come loose once so its worth taking the bases off the action every few years and check its still snug.
Technique for mounting is to loosen off the cross locking screw right off so the clamping block is right out of the way,
Tap the tapered base forward into the tapered dovetail with a plastic mallet (I use a piece of plastic chopping board to allow a small neat swing clear of the action),
You will need to have something to tap it back off when you remove it unless you like to hammer the scope itself !
once its firmly held by friction (or the retaining pin on the rear mount as shown in the silver one) then tighten the cross lock screw as an extra precaution and the clamping block provides extra security and bearing surface.
Then mount the scope in the rings adjust fore/aft and level the cross hairs,
Then tighten the smaller ring screws in a zigzag X pattern bit by bit so they are all even and it doesn't twist out of level.
I then fire a few shots and tighten a little more (to target torque if I'm using that).
Recoil pushes the scope forward each time so the dovetail can only get tighter.
I imagine the friction fit NEAR rail would just stay in place, even without any cross screws - very elegant but a bit high for my liking.
My impression is, although it locks you into a "tapered dovetail ecosystem" with limited adjustment available for eye relief, in most cases it works very well and is a foolproof rugged way for non expert shooters to mount their own scope.
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