ATEC Suppressor experience, problems, and troubleshooting thread

[Stäger Sport]

Hey Tibo,

H2 to H3 change is minor, just the shape and angle of the gas ports inside the baffle modules was improved based on their constant totooing over there. So just a slight overall performance improvement with the main outcome was rather improved first round pop. Right when it came out, the iso mil std testing regime was updated which created confusion around comparing older generation products to new generation products. There is a couple of H2's on the market which are a tad cheaper as there was a mnfr price increase at that same time too (how 2020's f%#k $ake lol).

Cheers
Jbrad.

[Pommy]

Optima50 module...



(One very dirty) MegaH2 module...



Got the tools for doing up the A-Locks properly here.

[JoshB]

Hey guys, I'm looking at getting an ATEC for my model 7, 300 wsm and was after some advice on the differences between the optima 40, 45, 50, and the H3 and what option of those you would prefer

[Bagheera]

Thinking about the Optima, it looks as if it has some muzzle brake function inside but if you want muzzle jump/ twist control you need the brake end cap ?

[Pommy]

@JoshB, the difference between the 40, 45, and 50 is diameter (and therefore volume). For a 300wsm I'd suggest the Optima50 or the H3. Feel free to PM me.

@Bagheera, yes you need the brake end cap to get additional recoil mitigation. That's because no matter what trickery you do inside of a suppressor, the gas is part of a closed system and the forces will cancel out internally. E.g. if you have a brake inside a suppressor, some gas gets redirected backwards, counteracting recoil from the bullet. That gas then impinges on the back of the suppressor, increasing the recoil again... It's when the gas exits the suppressor where it becomes an open system. If it's venting forward, it's adding to recoil. If it can be redicted back/out, it can give you a net reduction in recoil.

[Masperjay]

Apologies for necro'ing the thread.

I am having issues with my ATEC Marksman , which is supposed to be their 'military' model.

twice has it cooked off red loctite , and now I'm stuck with a very expensive direct thread can which I have traditionally shared between two rifles in it's QD State which is what drew me to it.

The suppressor is seized on the Marksman brake after about 120rds of shooting 7.62 Ball, and the brake itself is not on the rifle. it's stuck in the can.

A little dissapointing , if I'm completely honest.

no amount of heat or penetrative oil is looking like it will release this , I tried to put the can in a vice and wrap the Brake threads as the locking collar has come off , but at the risk of marring the threads further than I already accidentally have , I stopped.

I really hope I'm not lumped with this as direct thread now , lest I would have just bought an ODL.

Not like it was cheap!

That being said , I Can't pin Stager for their customer service - They've been nothing but excellent to date and sent me a wrench for the collar at no charge - so this is far from a bashing post.




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[Masperjay]

Apologies for necro'ing the thread.

I am having issues with my ATEC Marksman , which is supposed to be their 'military' model.

twice has it cooked off red loctite , and now I'm stuck with a very expensive direct thread can which I have traditionally shared between two rifles in it's QD State which is what drew me to it.

The suppressor is seized on the Marksman brake after about 120rds of shooting 7.62 Ball, and the brake itself is not on the rifle. it's stuck in the can.

A little dissapointing , if I'm completely honest.

no amount of heat or penetrative oil is looking like it will release this , I tried to put the can in a vice and wrap the Brake threads as the locking collar has come off , but at the risk of marring the threads further than I already accidentally have , I stopped.

I really hope I'm not lumped with this as direct thread now , lest I would have just bought an ODL.

Not like it was cheap!

That being said , I Can't pin Stager for their customer service - They've been nothing but excellent to date and sent me a wrench for the collar at no charge - so this is far from a bashing post.


Attachment 264442Attachment 264443

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Also Re Loctite - A lot was used (no , not on the suppressor threads)

Sent from my SM-S918B using Tapatalk

[mikee]

Also Re Loctite - A lot was used (no , not on the suppressor threads)Attachment 264444

Sent from my SM-S918B using Tapatalk

Have you tried this Loctite 638 which is not red in colour but green and what A-Tec recommend.

loctite-638-retaining-compound-high-strength-50ml-3

Perhaps a thorough clean, degrease and correct "loctite primer" might be a good thing too.

[tibo]

What Mikee said, clean all red loctite first

[Ben_SK]

Have you tried this Loctite 638 which is not red in colour but green and what A-Tec recommend.

loctite-638-retaining-compound-high-strength-50ml-3

Perhaps a thorough clean, degrease and correct "loctite primer" might be a good thing too.

What he said!
I am using Loctite® 638 and never had a single issue with the A-Lock adapter for three years now.
Even after shooting the barrel quite hot in a driven game simulator with full power hunting ammo...

Cheers
Ben

[gimp]

Anyone used a H3 on a .223 with 1 module? How does the suppression compare to a DPT overbarrel with 3-4 modules?

[Roamr]

Had asked a gunsmith when the rifle was away to get my Marksman qd muzzle brake installed by them, but I guess they forgot the request whilst ruining my other rifles stock.


Just sent the following through to Joel :

Just tried to install it with a brand new pot of Loctite 638 and it was immovable within literally 15-20seconds from being applied, threaded in one turn out from bottom, and installed ready to be backed off for leveling. Wouldn't budge with the contra nut spanner and a wrench to carry out the operation as per the instructions.
So I had to quickly take the whole thing off the rifle and obliterate the contra nut end threads in a vice to get the muzzle brake off before the Loctite 638 properly set in the wrong position.
Took an almighty amount of force to crack it off, and all of this took place well within the 4minute set time expected from the Loctite 638, I almost reached out for the acetylene torch before the last attempt though.
I used 3 tiny spots which appeared to have perfectly filled the adapter side threads after removal, so I don't think I over did the application. And it's not particularly 'warm' here.


---

So I guess stay tuned for the second attempt maybe I'll buy two adapters and expect to bugger it up a second time, third times the charm right?

[Peashooter]

Thanks Joel, great info! off topic but is there much difference between H2 and H3?

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