Thread: Bore cleaning.

KG12 - is available still. I've actually got an full tub that you can buy if you like?

I've swapped over to Boretech products. They are great.

i use bore tech eliminator and a foaming bore cleaner.

I follow the instructions and then oil it.

is there a benefit to using different products when you are just going hunting?

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Hoppes for a light "clean" or this for carbon and copper removal.
Attachment 281380

Does anyone know of a good replacement for this I've been using it for years and are about to run out and don't think it's made anymore

Sent from my CPH2531 using Tapatalk

CLR and a nylon brush makes quick work for carbon and copper with about 20 strokes. Check with a bore scope to make sure.

Hoppes is still available at our local hunt and fish shop in Hamilton.

Originally Posted by 25/08 IMP

Does anyone know of a good replacement for this I've been using it for years and are about to run out and don't think it's made anymore

Sent from my CPH2531 using Tapatalk

I think it was bought out by Hoppes and it is not as good now according to the internet.

Cleaning = JB bore paste.
Rust prevention = Eezox.

After buying a borescope I found the chemical cleaners next to useless for most fouling. They are useful at turning white cleaning patched into various colours for little visible benefit inside the bore. Five minutes with JB bore paste and all clean.
I actually don't clean much at all. Maybe every couple hundred rounds or if I notice accuracy dropping off. But that is different to rust prevention.
After every use I just use a boresnake with eezox on it no matter whether it's stainless or blued barrel, nor whether I fired a shot or not.

Black powder is different of course. But that's even easier.

Originally Posted by Shearer

For a couple of decades now I have been using KG1 carbon remover and KG12 copper solvent to clean the bore of my rifles. I am struggling to find it now so what are peoples go-tos for bore cleaning?

Hamils tauranga stock KG12

Thanks for all of the suggestions.
It sounds like CLR may be the cheap solution for carbon and to be honest I don't use the KG12 (copper remover) much. I still haven't finished the 118ml bottle I bought nearly 20 years ago.

Be very careful not to spill CLR on the rest of the rifle as it can be nasty.

Originally Posted by 6x47

Be very careful not to spill CLR on the rest of the rifle as it can be nasty.

yep its great at removing bluing and ceracoat too !!

Ok. Sounds a bit dangerous in my hands.

Originally Posted by Makros

Cleaning = JB bore paste.
Rust prevention = Eezox.

After buying a borescope I found the chemical cleaners next to useless for most fouling. They are useful at turning white cleaning patched into various colours for little visible benefit inside the bore. Five minutes with JB bore paste and all clean.
I actually don't clean much at all. Maybe every couple hundred rounds or if I notice accuracy dropping off. But that is different to rust prevention.
After every use I just use a boresnake with eezox on it no matter whether it's stainless or blued barrel, nor whether I fired a shot or not.

Black powder is different of course. But that's even easier.

Interesting. Schultz and Larsen are emphatic about not using chemicals but do allow the use of the VFG felt pellets with embedded bronze and other shite

Kroil removes carbon fouling well, if things are bad a combo of kriol to lube the barrel & JBs bore paste, & good rodgering especially the thoat & first 6 inches of the barrel. Seen projectiles infused with fine cutting paste, used to sort out really rough barrels & it works but for how long, barrel 90% shot out.

I use a plethora of brews, all the usually suspects.
KG
BUTCHERS
HOPPES
JB PASTE
just stuff you pick up over the years.
Best Cu remover (apart from JB) would be a Balistol product "Robla Solo" it's got quite a high ammonia whiff.
Hoppes is a good one to leave in the bore, as it has an oil base. When you patch out the barrel after a fortnight it's still going to carry a green tinge, showing to me its still quietly working (I'm talking about the modern stuff here)


Mostly I think they are all pretty close, you need one other main ingredient called elbow grease. It's all about the strokes with a bronze brush, you can't fake it.
You also need to use a borescope to really understand what's happening, most hunters don't clean fully.