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Thread: BSA 12 15 TO .22 HORNET CONVERSION

  1. #16
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    These are the parts disassembled

    The firing pin main shaft it wide enough to take the offset firing pin
    It needs to be timed because of the sear slot

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  2. #17
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    So there's a 1215 here in pieces of anyone wants to have a crack at converting to CF

    I'm no interested because I have a huge list of restorations I'm working through already
    And I'm not a Martini fan because they don't have an external hammer
    And I have 1885 and 44 1/2 22 hornets already

  3. #18
    Member S.E.G's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaroa1 View Post
    So there's a 1215 here in pieces of anyone wants to have a crack at converting to CF

    I'm no interested because I have a huge list of restorations I'm working through already
    And I'm not a Martini fan because they don't have an external hammer
    And I have 1885 and 44 1/2 22 hornets already
    PM sent

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peteforskeet View Post
    Hi rod,
    Is another option to alter the height of the fingers on the end of the cocking lever, that lift the breechblock to height?
    The downside being that the face of the breechblock wouldnt be dead square to the centreline of the bore anymore, i think by 1 degree?
    I have only done one that way and it worked fine but I prefer the bushing method for a better result.

  5. #20
    Peter
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    Quote Originally Posted by gundoc View Post
    I have only done one that way and it worked fine but I prefer the bushing method for a better result.
    Looks like zac is going to do it for me, ill post on here how it goes, could be several weeks away,
    Cheers
    Husky1600 likes this.

  6. #21
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    I'm looking for a sacrificial Martini receiver if anyone has a bare receiver sitting around.

  7. #22
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    The two methods of conversion

    First method, lowering the breechblock: begin by making a short threaded plug to fit the barrel threads in the receiver, and chamber it for the same cartridge or case head that you'll be using. The chamber doesn't have to be anything special, just make something that's smooth enough on the inside to hold a case or case head centered, and allow you to use it for trying the strike. Take some pains with the appearance 'cause this is a very useful tool that will last several lifetimes; I also suggest stamping or etching it with the thread ID, I marked mine simply CADET. Now shorten the arms of the lever where they contact the bottom of the block. Start by removing ~0.020" or so from both sides but it won't be enough. Now try the strike on a new primer, chambered in your new thread plug that you just made, and see how it compares with the original strike (which was off by ~0.110" or so, remember?). You'll almost certainly have to shorten the arms some more but GO SLOW HERE. I've seen as much as 0.010" difference in the amount of shortening required to center two apparently identical rifles, so GO SLOW HERE! When you have cut enough to center the strike, then cut the face of the block back to the vertical to match the CL of the threads. I've done this, cut-&-try, with a grinding wheel and hand-held stones, but the elegant method would be to use a lap centered in your handy-dandy thread plug. Please be advised that most of these RF blocks are hard and a file won't normally do much cutting. Now bush the block & use your new thread plug and a decapped case to center-punch and then drill the bushed face for the new, smaller, striker tip. Reduce the striker tip to match the hole, shape & polish it, and you're done.

    Second method, moving the striker tip: again, make a handy-dandy threaded plug as described above. Now bush the block and mark the new striker tip location on the block face through the plug. I actually use a smaller sub-bushing as a drill guide and go ahead and drill the new striker hole straight through the freshly-bushed block face and farther on into the face of the striker, after grinding the original striker tip back flush with the striker face of course. Now silver-solder or braze or epoxy or Black Max a new striker tip into the new (now offset) striker hole and shape the tip. This method requires that the striker always be inserted right-side-up rather than the somewhat willy-nilly original any-old-way, but I consider that a small price to pay for the convenience.
    rupert and akaroa1 like this.

  8. #23
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    the old smith up my way used to specialize in these not just 22hornets ether ive seen them come out of his workshop in everything upto and includeing 7mm waters (7mm-30/30)
    mostly 222's and 223's and some other 22 cal wild cats

    i brought a victors 22 target rifle that had been re done to 22h
    he looked at it and said its safe but the barrel wont last as they just rechambered the 22 barrel he said 22 rimfire barrel steel was softer and wouldn't handle the 22hornet for more than 500-1000 rounds he was right it shot out really quick

    he always re-barreled his

    ofcorse this was like 10 years ago so cant remember all the details

  9. #24
    Peter
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    Quote Originally Posted by rambo-6mmrem View Post
    the old smith up my way used to specialize in these not just 22hornets ether ive seen them come out of his workshop in everything upto and includeing 7mm waters (7mm-30/30)
    mostly 222's and 223's and some other 22 cal wild cats

    i brought a victors 22 target rifle that had been re done to 22h
    he looked at it and said its safe but the barrel wont last as they just rechambered the 22 barrel he said 22 rimfire barrel steel was softer and wouldn't handle the 22hornet for more than 500-1000 rounds he was right it shot out really quick

    he always re-barreled his

    ofcorse this was like 10 years ago so cant remember all the details
    Im only going to shoot lead at rimfire velocity so cant see any problems there

  10. #25
    Peter
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    Also i have a very new looking westley richards barrel in 310 cadet,
    im thinking this would be an ok conversion as well?

  11. #26
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    Pete: it would be a sad thing to do, to modify a 310 original barrel in good condition. That barrel belongs on a Martini Cadet. Get another barrel for the build.

  12. #27
    Peter
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    Quote Originally Posted by rupert View Post
    Pete: it would be a sad thing to do, to modify a 310 original barrel in good condition. That barrel belongs on a Martini Cadet. Get another barrel for the build.
    Ill have a hunt thru the pile of barrels at gun city see what i can find

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peteforskeet View Post
    Ill have a hunt thru the pile of barrels at gun city see what i can find
    @Peteforskeet don't waste your time. There isn't a single small caliber barrel in that pile that's got any life at all left in it

    they have been gone though by myself and a renowned benchrest shooter and gunsmith will a borescope and they are all absolutely crap

    Realistic value is current scrap rates
    Hunter_Nick likes this.

 

 

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