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Thread: Cleaning old barrels

  1. #16
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    plug muzzle end with likes of tissue paper and spray crc in from action end till you cant get any more in...muzzle down over night then try scrubbing it out again....be carefull to keep rope to centre of bore and dont rub on edge as this stuffs crown/accuracy real quick.
    you can use rod to clean just slip bare rod in and thread brush in at action then pull it back out....bore snakes are just too easy .

  2. #17
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    Or Mitch Maxberry has a heap of ex target 30 cal barrels ranging from good to excellent he can re chamber. Did my Savage 99 in 300 Savage for bugger all.

  3. #18
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    You could try electrolysis which would leave a clean bore without any copper or powder residue or lead or rust in the pits, so it would copper-up within a few shots anyway. Best idea is nor-west's, an ex-target barrel, slimmed down and trimmed-up; it would possibly be a more accurate rifle than when it was new.
    shooternz and Cordite like this.

  4. #19
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    Will give this Mitch maxbury guy a call tomorrow and see what he says about a rebarrel job,sounds like the best solution.

  5. #20
    Member Maca49's Avatar
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    Try some Phosphoric acid for rust removal, Guggle it!
    Boom, cough,cough,cough

  6. #21
    Member Marty Henry's Avatar
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    Phosphoric might work but the inside of the barrel will be parkerised and that isnt shiny.
    Sell it to a pig hunter, the accuracies way better than what they usually require so it could be marketed as a target pig gun.

  7. #22
    Member Maca49's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Henry View Post
    Phosphoric might work but the inside of the barrel will be parkerised and that isnt shiny.
    Sell it to a pig hunter, the accuracies way better than what they usually require so it could be marketed as a target pig gun.
    Yep but you can repolish it with FMJ projectiles and brasso
    Boom, cough,cough,cough

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maca49 View Post
    You can treat with acid to remove rust etc, I have some at home but cannot remember the name of it. Brings them up a treat! I find the name
    Dont use abrasives like Autosol or brasso as mentioned in earlier posts. For rust you could try something like this...SCA RUST CONVERTER - 500mL - Supercheap Auto

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by timattalon View Post
    Dont use abrasives like Autosol or brasso as mentioned in earlier posts. For rust you could try something like this...SCA RUST CONVERTER - 500mL - Supercheap Auto
    UM its called rust Converter because it converts ... not removes . Leaves a black residue that is just fine for car panels but is probly harder to remove than the rust and it sure wont help accuracy either . Beats me , I have a mk3 303 that has the worst barrel ( I put a box of tracer thru it and then left it in a damp cupboard for 10 years .... young and stupid ) and it shot as you describe with 150gn ammo , but with either 180 gn ammo or x army stuff it was back to 4-5" @100yards ....
    Vegetarians Bah !! . If god didn't want us to eat animals he wouldn't have made them out of meat ! .

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by timattalon View Post
    Dont use abrasives like Autosol or brasso as mentioned in earlier posts. For rust you could try something like this...SCA RUST CONVERTER - 500mL - Supercheap Auto
    UM its called rust Converter because it converts ... not removes . Leaves a black residue that is just fine for car panels but is probly harder to remove than the rust and it sure wont help accuracy either . Beats me , I have a mk3 303 that has the worst barrel ( I put a box of tracer thru it and then left it in a damp cupboard for 10 years .... young and stupid ) and it shot as you describe with 150gn ammo , but with either 180 gn ammo or x army stuff it was back to 4-5" @100yards ....
    Vegetarians Bah !! . If god didn't want us to eat animals he wouldn't have made them out of meat ! .

  11. #26
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    What projectiles are you using. I've battled with hornday's fouling my chrome moloy barrels for the last few years until I tried other brands and problem went away. Thought it was a bad barrel until I got a second rifle and same problem. Gun slick foam has been great and takes the carbon out to. I still use hornadys but the gun slick takes care of the fouling although if I've fired a few more rounds than usual I need to do it a couple of times and give it plenty of time to work, 30-40mins each time

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by timattalon View Post
    Dont use abrasives like Autosol or brasso as mentioned in earlier posts. For rust you could try something like this...SCA RUST CONVERTER - 500mL - Supercheap Auto
    You need abrasives to get a decent change. It's pitted shooting a 4 inch group at 40 meters. it's fucked anyway, it won't get worse from a little scrubbing. And if it does you loose a 4 inch group at 40m. Just re-barrel.
    veitnamcam likes this.

  13. #28
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    Tried fiocchi factory ,Winchester factory and hornady interlock round nose in my reloads,all 150g.might try some heavier pills one day..over the lack of accuracy for mow so back in the safe it goes.might flick it on and just use the ruger 77/44 for the wet weather hunts,it has open sights and my reloads shoot just over 1in at 50m.

  14. #29
    Member Cordite's Avatar
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    @The bomb,

    Interesting problem. Electrolysis will dissolve everything usual out, and the rust. How did the bore slugging go?
    Guns don't kill people - drivers do.

    The Hedgehog Preservation Society

  15. #30
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    Been using a chemical called Metal Rescue for some work stuff, certainly dissolves rust, you can get it in Bunnings for about $50,
    If it's as bad as you say I'd be tempted to give it a try,

 

 

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