Thread: CRC or WD40 for maintenance?

Originally Posted by samusugiru

Hi guys,
I'm new to cleaning guns. Is it OK to use CRC or WD40 for lube when cleaning a gun?

Here you go samusugiru
The Practical Guide To Bolt Action Rifle Accurizing and Maintenance

For storing any of my gun parts, Lanox is my go-to product. Inox and lanolin oil mixed together in essence. The lanolin oil lasts for a long time on the surface of metal products.

CRC 5.56 to avoid at all cost on blued guns. There are rust removing ingredients inside and you will deteriorate the bluing of nice guns.
Use CRC long life, inox or wd-40 or any good gun oil on blued guns.
I use the CRC 5.56 to remove the rust of the stainless guns ( yes stainless rust , particularly inside the hidden part of the stock when the gun has never been maintained.)
For long term storage there is a CRC dry film can, or CRC gel, or lanacote from CRC which is a lanolin/ fish oil based grease.

As mentionné above, read the excellent book from Nathan foster.

Despite having lots of the very best bore cleaners sitting around home, I am always amazed at the propellant fouling that Inox brings out of the bore. Just when you think you have it super clean with your wonder bore solvent, Inox seems to find more!

I am currently running CRC marine. I have 4 odd litres of CLP but the CRC is in a spray can and I am lazy prick. I have noticed when I push a patch through the bore before shooting, they come out dark blue. I am not sure if that means it is breaking down the copper, or whether it just turns that colour when it settles and mixes with the carbon.

just give it a bit of kroil down the tube after every outing and only give it a big clean out if accuracy deteriorates, no need to be obsessive about it

Originally Posted by Sideshow

Here you go samusugiru
The Practical Guide To Bolt Action Rifle Accurizing and Maintenance

Disappointed - thought this was a link to a useful article, but instead to a US$40 e-book.

Lanox is the stuff.

It does all, lube and rust protection.

This stuff is the business, dont ask me where to get it, I bought a small outboard from a boat shop and he gave me a can free to try and told me to give the outboard a quick spray with it after cleaning. I have been using it for all sorts and its good stuff

I wouldn't recommend Rem oil, seems to evaporate to nothing. My semis won't cycle unless I drench them regularly with it, have gone to thin synthetic motor oil

CRC, WD40 and RemOil are all way too light to be used as a lubricant. They offer little to no load protection and oxidize quickly, leaving a sticky residue that will seize up your action.

Originally Posted by Krameranzac

Despite having lots of the very best bore cleaners sitting around home, I am always amazed at the propellant fouling that Inox brings out of the bore. Just when you think you have it super clean with your wonder bore solvent, Inox seems to find more!

For propellant fouling (carbon) which sounds like you are having problems with try Mercury Marine Quicksilver Engine Cleaner or Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner. General Motors also make an upper engine cleaner which is also effective. Failing that give it a good dung out with Autosol.

Also remember that if people are not keeping on top of fouling it will build up in layers and need to be attached with dedicated carbon and Cu cleaners to remove all deposits and just when you think you have got there, there is more to remove....

Depending on the barrel some will need more cleaning to remove carbon and particularly copper fouling than others. Some barrels always shoot their best after cleaning and some barrels like a few shots through to shoot their best. You have to determine what your barrel prefers.

You'll find that most competitive benchrest shooters are meticulous about cleaning their barrels; some after every card shot.

Regardless, all barrels should be patched with a decent preservative oil if left for more than a couple of days.

I have been using Hoppes #9 for 50+ years, followed by a light spray of CRC 556 or WD40 (just whichever one is handy) and wiped off with a oily cloth. I have never had a problem with the blueing with CRC (and I treat my good collector's items the same way). Some people do over-clean their firearms. Just look after the bores without over-thinking it, just enough oil to prevent rust on external surafces, a touch of lube on sliding surfaces, and remove crud from the nooks and crannies as soon as you notice it. There are heaps of products on the market, all touting themselves as the 'best'. The reality is that they are all much the same. I have tried lots of them and keep going back to Hoppes #9 for its superior fouling removal.

Originally Posted by gundoc

I have been using Hoppes #9 for 50+ years, followed by a light spray of CRC 556 or WD40 (just whichever one is handy) and wiped off with a oily cloth. I have never had a problem with the blueing with CRC (and I treat my good collector's items the same way). Some people do over-clean their firearms. Just look after the bores without over-thinking it, just enough oil to prevent rust on external surafces, a touch of lube on sliding surfaces, and remove crud from the nooks and crannies as soon as you notice it. There are heaps of products on the market, all touting themselves as the 'best'. The reality is that they are all much the same. I have tried lots of them and keep going back to Hoppes #9 for its superior fouling removal.

Ah, love potion number 9. That is what I use and seems to work fine. Every so often I'll use some special copper remover.

I did suggest that if TR put a dab of Hoppes #9 behind her ears she'd be likely to attract the right type of guy.