dose anyone run a patch of say meths through the barrel after cleaning to get rif of any solvent traces left over?
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dose anyone run a patch of say meths through the barrel after cleaning to get rif of any solvent traces left over?
yep meths is good for clearing out sweets etc.
greg
Are u talking about during the cleaning process or b4 firing?
Depends upon which solvent - despite what the manufacturers may say about their products being safe I don't like leaving any trace of them behind the exception being good old Hoppes 9.
I use meths or Brakleen during cleaning to neutralise and remove any trace of solvent and the same 2 again to remove oil before firing.
Just a couple of tight dry patches then a wet with clp or hoppes and into the safe
Cleaning? ??
Nope, I just use the cleaning product on patches, followed by dry patches.
Then it just gets some sort of gun-oil. Liking G96 at the moment - stuff smells incredible and can be used for cleaning, lubrication and protection (CLP). I just keep smelling my shotgun...god damn I want to eat it.
I dry with a couple dry patches, then I put a couple with a light spray of innox through the bore before storage. I don't wipe it out before shooting...or if I do wipe the bore because it's a bit dusty, its with more innox...and I'll shoot it with innox left in barrel (emphasis on the light spray used).
In general I don't get to much distance between clean and dirty bore shots using this method. I don't totally clean my barrels (of copper) until at least 60 shots or more. Just basic clean, then innox.
Kj
generaly my cheaning prosess is 2 passes with a bore snake and oil before shooting i run the bore snake through again..... for oiling the barrel i use car oil its what the oldtimer gunsmith up here uses and works mint dont use it for lubeing parts though lol once every 50-100rnds depending on the gun i give it a spring clean with brushes, solvents etc for these cleans it tend to use something like sweets 7.62 (very nasty shit if left in which is the reason for meths) for my barrels that tend to copper alot and boretch elemater for my match barrels that dont tend to copper up as much half the time i dont even use brushes on them bore tech and patches takes it out fine
I have been using sweets for years, only ever patched out and oiled,never had a problem or any pitting in any barrels blued or stainless.
If you are really worried about sweets(and there is absolutely no need to unless you are leaving it in there for months) then use a wet patch yes just wet with water, ammonia is attracted to/dissolves in water. Meths is a pretty shit cleaner for all but the lightest of oils,it does however absorb moisture so if your OCD isn't satisfied yet you could....
Clean with sweets or any other ammonia based solvent,clean that out with water,clean the water out with meths, then put some shitty engine oil in there :thumbsup:
If I wasn't such a retard I would find and link that link that has been posted a few times of a pretty comprehensive test of lube/rust preventers.
You mean this one?
http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667
And that's why I recently changed to Frog Lube as a protectant. Boretech (various brew of theirs with the exception of their Moly Magic which is useless), KG, Mercury Outboard Top Engine or Subaru Top Engine for cleaning. JBs or Autosol if really really desperate. Brakleen to remove all of above. Brakleen also has some mild carbon removing properties
Cheers for that, it was worth a read. Problem is that the more you read the more confused you get, such as this article where the top shooters in the world and some barrel makers themselves all do it differently
http://www.6mmbr.com/borebrushing.html
What I've learnt is the group size matters most, so if your shooting well...keep doing what you're doing:thumbsup:
Cheers for that, it was worth a read. Problem is that the more you read the more confused you get, such as this article where the top shooters in the world and some barrel makers themselves all do it differently
http://www.6mmbr.com/borebrushing.html
What I've learnt is the group size matters most, so if your shooting well...keep doing what you're doing:thumbsup:
I can't click that link at the moment - blocked at work. Is it the one with the like 50 different products put on round metal plates? Then they are left outside in the rain and got a daily spray with salt water? I've seen a bunch of similar tests that only go for a few days but this one ran for a couple of weeks from memory.
Because that's the most comprehensive test i've seen and Froglube performed terribly in it. I think it packed it in after a couple of days. There was a bit of an outcry from its supporters.
Only about 3 or 4 of the products were still going strong after a week. It was a pretty insane test though.
That's the one Matty, but frog lube was one of the products that did the best. But Lys of other well known and used brands did real bad.
Keep in mind that this is only a corrosion test, not a how well does it clean test. Some of those products may be more suited to cleaning, than protecting.
Must be a different test then. I'll post the other later when I get on a normal PC.
Here it is:
Corrosion Testing (New Pics - 5-08-12) [Archive] - M4Carbine.net Forums
Seems there's a bunch of people who've run these sorts of tests, and most of them have wildly differing results. Go figure, hah.
You're right, then there is this one http://www.6mmbr.com/corrosiontest.html
They just go on for ever plus you wonder with some of the results whether the tester maybe has a hidden agenda,
Like anything "believe nothing of what you read and only 1/2 of what you see" and you should be okie dokie.
But seriously, like anything, read reports, evaluate (aka sift thru the bullshit), make a decision, and try for yourself.