Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Create Account now to join.
  • Login:

Welcome to the NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums.

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed.

ZeroPak DPT


User Tag List

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 30
Like Tree13Likes

Thread: Help! Stuck action screw

  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Tauranga
    Posts
    2,967

    Help! Stuck action screw

    Hey all. Have a siezed/stuck and action screw on a rifle that needs removing. Was a torx head that has been completely rounded out. Is recessed so can't cut a slot with the dremel without ruining the stock

    Any ideas on how to best go about this(tack a Allen key to it maybe) or anyone who is that way inclined want to earn a box of beers before I send it off to a gunsmith or similar?

  2. #2
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Stewart island / canterbury
    Posts
    9,186
    Use a bigger hammer... Tried a slightly larger torx and smacked it in?

  3. #3
    northdude
    Guest
    Drill the head off it
    veitnamcam and mimms2 like this.

  4. #4
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    CNI
    Posts
    5,791
    I would be inclined to take to gunsmith. However, alternatively you could sharpen a piece of hs steel to a miniature cold chisel profile and carfully with chisel and light hammer, cut a straight or pk slot for driver.
    Summer grass
    Of stalwart warriors splendid dreams
    the aftermath.

    Matsuo Basho.

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Tauranga
    Posts
    2,967
    Quote Originally Posted by northdude View Post
    Drill the head off it
    Yeah w
    This would be how I would usually go about it but may be a mission as this screw has a fat shank that runs about 15 mil down before the thread starts. Can see myself ballsing somthing up. Might give the drill and studd remover a go. Be a useful top to have anyway

  6. #6
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Nelson
    Posts
    24,804
    Id be for drilling the head off it as above, then you have the stock off and out of the way to weld a nut on or use heat.
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  7. #7
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Far North
    Posts
    4,828
    iv watched my mechanic use a sharp punch and tap a headless screw out of one of my pieces of machines

    its better to give these jobs to people who arnt all thumbs as i tend to only fuck things up worse
    Steve123 and WillB like this.

  8. #8
    northdude
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Nick-D View Post
    Yeah w
    This would be how I would usually go about it but may be a mission as this screw has a fat shank that runs about 15 mil down before the thread starts. Can see myself ballsing somthing up. Might give the drill and studd remover a go. Be a useful top to have anyway
    Just use a drill that's slightly larger than the diameter of the shank not the diameter of the screw head go steady and it will just ping the head off if you were close I'd do it we get it all the time with home handicaps trying to fix their cars

  9. #9
    Member rugerman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Horowhenua
    Posts
    3,001
    I've used a flat blade screwdriver before. get one that almost fits and bash the snot out of it so work it to the bottom of the hole then a pair of vice grips on the screwdriver and try to unwind. Drilling it out would be the best but you do risk sliding off and getting the stock.

  10. #10
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Tauranga
    Posts
    2,967
    Sweet cheers for the help guys. Screw is out and replaced with a fresh one properly torqued to factory spec. Managed to get the sucker off with a screw/studd remover driven well in and a couple of big wrenches.

    Fucking thing was in there so tight, not sure how it held in as much as it did. Whoever did it up must have really disliked action screws ever coming loose.

    Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Tauranga
    Posts
    2,967
    Quote Originally Posted by northdude View Post
    Just use a drill that's slightly larger than the diameter of the shank not the diameter of the screw head go steady and it will just ping the head off if you were close I'd do it we get it all the time with home handicaps trying to fix their cars
    Yeah the shank on these screws is the same diameter as the screw head and runs down to where it tucks in to make contact with the pillar. Doable for sure but would have taken some drilling!

    Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    Member gadgetman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Christchurch
    Posts
    17,866
    Another option is to find an Allen key that is about the right size, slightly bigger. Use a ball grindstone to hollow out the centre of the end leaving the tips slightly extended. This can then be driven into the head to re-cut as an Allen head. I've done this a few times in the workshops.
    Mauser308 and timattalon like this.
    There are only three types of people in this world. Those that can count, and those that can't!

  13. #13
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Far North
    Posts
    4,828
    Yea if the screw is toast anyway just drill the diameter of the other screw shank till the head pops off then deal to the shank when it slides out of the stock with vicegrips carefully

  14. #14
    Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    537
    I have used a impac driver with success in the past (multiple CRC applications over night beforehand), the job needs to be held firmly with a solid backstop. Also drilling out slowly the centre with a smaller diameter than the actual screw shank, bites in and can undo the screw without even using an easy out bit, also do the crc pre soaking beforehand.

  15. #15
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Far North
    Posts
    4,828
    Drying the screwhead and putting a thin piece of rubber between screw and driver and lots of downward pressure is often enough too

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. what! Im stuck.
    By cas in forum Introductions
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 10-03-2019, 07:59 PM
  2. Sako 85 action screw torque?
    By LJP in forum Firearms, Optics and Accessories
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-10-2018, 10:31 PM
  3. Getting stuck in!
    By silentscope in forum The Magazine
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-03-2018, 07:27 PM

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Welcome to NZ Hunting and Shooting Forums! We see you're new here, or arn't logged in. Create an account, and Login for full access including our FREE BUY and SELL section Register NOW!!