Thread: Holdover Reticles

Originally Posted by tikka

Depending on rifle/scope combination I dial elevation in any strong wind so I'm only holding for wind.
If I'm in a rush and under 300m will use hold over.
Really like FFP the reticle holds true in at any magnification. In the last year just started using a Mil FFP scope and been using Accuracy First Speed Drop system ( there's a few videos on the net ) and the Mil reticle matchs the
distance from a set minimum and maximum distance with a .2 Mil accuracy threshold. On my 223 and scope I'm good for 200m to 500m using this system.

eg.
2 Mil = 200m
3 Mil = 300m
5 Mil = 500m
2.5 Mil =250m
3.1 Mil =310m

And have shot a lot of goats and a couple of deer with this system.

What scope are you using?

One issue not mentioned with hold over reticles, is they fall apart when shooting at angles. With the rifleman's rule lets say you're shooting at 300m 30°. Your drop hold will be at the 260m point, and your windage hold will be on the 300m point.

Not if you range it with a tbr range finder. That would allow for angle and give you the corrected distance. Then use what ever mark is close on the reticle . Having one that's close is the biggest problem as distance increases. A bit out at close range , is a lot out at distance.

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Originally Posted by Beetroot

What scope are you using?

Nightforce NX8 2.5-20x50 F1 mil-c reticle on 223rem
ATACR 4-16X42 F1 moar reticle on 338edge
NXS 2.5-10x42 SFP moar reticles on a 308win and a 300BLK

Originally Posted by Magnetite

One issue not mentioned with hold over reticles, is they fall apart when shooting at angles. With the rifleman's rule lets say you're shooting at 300m 30°. Your drop hold will be at the 260m point, and your windage hold will be on the 300m point.

That's no different to any other sight/system (iron sights, dialup etc).

Once upon a time if man was thumb height he was X far away.half a thumb Y far..thumb width high Z far away.... We have come a long way since then.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

Once upon a time if man was thumb height he was X far away.half a thumb Y far..thumb width high Z far away.... We have come a long way since then.

To be fair we aren't shooting at people these days - we are supposed to be enlightened now. But I get your point, we have moved on haha.

Originally Posted by r87mm

Not if you range it with a tbr range finder. That would allow for angle and give you the corrected distance. Then use what ever mark is close on the reticle . Having one that's close is the biggest problem as distance increases. A bit out at close range , is a lot out at distance.

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That's why a straight Mil reticle is better than BDC in many cases IMO.
At closer distances 100-300m the BDC lines are close enough, but it also so happens that .5mil and 1mil usually line up with 200m and 300m respectively.

If you are going to have BDC lines that don't actually line up at the distances they are "calibrated" for then you have as well have a straight Mil reticle and just work out what distances the Mil lines line up.
Or if you want to go full hog you can do the speed drop thing like Tikka mentioned.

I have a Burris veracity 2.5x10 ffp which works ok ish for hold over.
The other one is a pride Fowler. Initially designed for the 22 lr drop, it is ffp and I m using it on my 300 bo. I have all the distances up to 220yrds marked on the reticle and it works whatever the magnification.
The Burris reticle is really one of the better design .it is still being very visible at lower magnification.

Originally Posted by vulcannz

That's no different to any other sight/system (iron sights, dialup etc).

I think what Magnetite is getting at is that if you are using a ballistic reticle that isn’t a Christmas tree or a grid that looks like a street map of Palmy Nth, when you have windage and distance you end up holding out of the reticle. Say two marks to the left and three down, this puts you out in space. With a windplex and dial you can at least dial to distance and hold off with markings for wind.

Iv got both dials are easier it can be overwhelming going down the hold over hash’s especially in the wind but they are very reliable I have a brh reticle swarovoski and a MOAR night force both 10 powers so the sfp doesn’t matter as only going to be holding over on full zoom anyhow