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Thread: How to get 20 moa on a sako?

  1. #16
    Member kokako's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogmatix View Post
    Didn't Tussock or Gimp put a 20 MOA rail on theirs?
    Roedale I think?

  2. #17
    Caretaker Wildman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kokako View Post
    Roedale I think?
    Waitaki eng. I think...

  3. #18
    Member andyanimal31's Avatar
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    This is the factory sako I found on euro optic
    Looks the gears.
    I hope they are a straight bolt on with no drilling and tapping ect
    My favorite sentences i like to hear are - I suppose so. and Send It!

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyanimal31 View Post
    This is the factory sako I found on euro optic
    Looks the gears.
    I hope they are a straight bolt on with no drilling and tapping ect
    Ummm, it looks like a Roedale rail. Three piece, the mounts fit by sliding onto the dovetails, and the rail screws down onto them. The front end of it slotted, so as to be able to fit S, M and L actions.
    I've used the canted mounts from Richard Near in Canada, Near Manufacturing - Rifle Scope Bases , a really super nice guy to deal with, OR, I used the base and mount Optilock set up, not the one piece Ringmounts, and milled 0.028" off the top of the front base, thereby canting the scope for more elevation adjustment.
    Gillie may be able to help.

    B
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  5. #20
    Member kokako's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shift14 View Post
    Ummm, it looks like a Roedale rail. Three piece, the mounts fit by sliding onto the dovetails, and the rail screws down onto them. The front end of it slotted, so as to be able to fit S, M and L actions.
    I've used the canted mounts from Richard Near in Canada, Near Manufacturing - Rifle Scope Bases , a really super nice guy to deal with, OR, I used the base and mount Optilock set up, not the one piece Ringmounts, and milled 0.028" off the top of the front base, thereby canting the scope for more elevation adjustment.
    Gillie may be able to help.

    B
    Pete Lincoln (owner of Roedale Precision) had a bit of trouble with Euro Optics manufacturing copies of item they purchased from him.
    That rail sure looks like a copy of one of Pete's rails.

  6. #21
    Member andyanimal31's Avatar
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    Looking like going down rhe optilocks with burris angled inserts.
    Any body done this to their sako?
    My favorite sentences i like to hear are - I suppose so. and Send It!

  7. #22
    Member dogmatix's Avatar
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    They might be a different size, you might have to trim them. Not 100% sure.
    I would check mine, but I can't be bothered re-zeroing after!
    Welcome to Sako club.

  8. #23
    Caretaker - Gone But Not Forgotten jakewire's Avatar
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    Waitaki Engineering did mine.
    Excellent job.
    Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?

  9. #24
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    Yep, i use the base and ring optilocks and places a shim in between the rear mount base and ring to give me the cant i required. Simple and works great.
    kokako likes this.

  10. #25
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    Do you really need a rail or have you run out of dial up? I was looking at doing this on my 75 and was advised by my gunsmith that with the scope I am using I should have plenty of elevation to get to 1000. Plus a rail plus rings etc just creates another point of potential weakness.

  11. #26
    Member chainsaw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogmatix View Post
    Try putting in the Burris Z Sig offset inserts into the optilocks?
    I have a set of the 5/10/20 MOA inserts, had to use them for a sideways facing AK rail.
    Have been wondering about how do get some more come up range on my 6.5 06AI which is built on a Sako 75 with 3.5 - 18x44 Swaro, cos I am limited to ~13 MOA dialup with this set up. Current set up gets me out to 700 - 850 yrds depending on pill, load and altitude.
    Where can I get hold of the Burris MOA inserts?

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by chainsaw View Post
    Have been wondering about how do get some more come up range on my 6.5 06AI which is built on a Sako 75 with 3.5 - 18x44 Swaro, cos I am limited to ~13 MOA dialup with this set up. Current set up gets me out to 700 - 850 yrds depending on pill, load and altitude.
    Where can I get hold of the Burris MOA inserts?
    Shameless plug for mine FS on TM at the moment, PM me if you wish.

    B

  13. #28
    Member wsm junkie's Avatar
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    Hey Andy, I've got some Burris inserts I'm not using you can have.

    Gives a txt if you want them.

    Ray

  14. #29
    Member andyanimal31's Avatar
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    Cheers ray.
    Will do
    My favorite sentences i like to hear are - I suppose so. and Send It!

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by andyanimal31 View Post
    Looking like going down the optilocks with burris angled inserts.
    Any body done this to their sako?
    We talked about this before. If the inserts don't work, can you mill off a bit from the bottom of the front ringmount ?

    Optiloks or Leupold have two advantages over rails:
    you still have plenty of room to top load the magazine. Thats one of the good features of the sako 75/85
    Lowest system. Any rail raises by about 10mm. before long you need a messy raised cheek rest and can't get your cleaning rod down.
    detachable rails all have dodgy screw down or tap in fixation. The sako is designed to bed the mount onto the flat action top under pressure from side screws acting on the undercut. This gives maximum side to side bearing surface. A detachable onesie would be good but it doesn't look as if MAK for instance has a 20MOA. I'm told the sako receiver is case hardened but softer inside so drill and tap would be a last resort. Would you machine off the knurling or not ....

    Gillie's shim works extremely well in his hands field shooting with the .260, but in theory could be less stable than a ring insert for a knockabout hunting weapon or heavy kicker.

    I never did get any slope on mine, just flat, and I would have to use a few mil dots beyond 900m. But its only intended for 500m, so not a problem.

 

 

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