Thread: Hunting Rifle

Originally Posted by Dicko

Don’t buy an old Mauser, old Sako etc that needs work until you have the bug bad. Get a modern reliable rifle and use it. Range and field. Modern, proven, not bubba’d up ie later model tikka, Sako, Remington, Vergara, Winchester etc


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This ^ and it applies even if a Mauser or Husky doesn't need work. I've got a bunch of genuine Mauser 98 sporters of various flavors collected over 25 years or so. There's no way I'd direct a new shooter in the "old classic" direction, a Tikka, Bergara or Howa is a better bet in every way.

As for people who suggest things like BSA "Hunters", Winny pre 64s and the like, that just shows how little they have thought for themselves as they along with things like Ruger M77s and Kimber 84 are not true copies of the famous Mauser extractor, they are very poor derivatives.

I intend to leave it since we are going around in circles let the man decide himself he has enough information he may decide on a german single shot who knows

Posts #3, 13 & 14 answered the question well.

Hello @Farmer_John, welcome to the world of shooters and hunters.
I would like to apologise to you for how this thread has gone.
You certainly have enough good advice in amongst the chaff.
Please do speak to a gunsmith.
Also please do let the Forum know what you wind up buying, we will all be curious!

I'm going to sign off from this thread now, but a parting shot at the, "Resident 6.5 aficionados." You fellas do realise you are shooting/hunting with a 6.5mm diameter projectile which was first invented in 1894! That's 130 years ago and so last century! Why don't you fellas get yourselves a modern projectile!?

Dinosaurs RULE 2024!

What to think about when checking out a rifle’s trigger.

Obviously, pull weight.
This should be between 500g and 2000g which is easiest to measure using a triiger pull guage.

Single or two stage ?
A two stage trigger has a light stage where the trigger moves back then a second stage thats firmer and discharges the gun.
The single stage stays in one place till the pressure is enough to fire it.
Either is OK but most people have a preference.

Creep
This is movement of the trigger before it fires. It makes it very difficult to shoot well.

Backlash
Movement after the gun fires.

If there is no creep or backlash thats really good. Sometimes people say “it breaks like an icicle”.

Trigger shape
Wide narrow textured like a piece if No 8 wire ?
Again most shooters have a preference.

Location
Can you reach it from the natural place your hand rests on the grip ?
Some like Carl Gustav are a long way out designed for Viking hands. Others have a palm swell that locates your hand exactly for each shot and need to be just right. Some have a long hand grip that you can put your hand where you want but of course it can vary from shot to shot if you’re not careful. Your trigger finger needs to be far enough forward that the tip is at right angles across the trigger pressing straight back and the finger is clear of the stock all along.

Expensive rifles and aftermarket triggers are usually adjustable for most of these but average ones often need expensive gunsmith work to get them just right for you.

To check the trigger you will need to dry fire it a few times. Ask the owner before you do this.
The answer should be Yes for a centrefire( possibly using a snap cap if you have one) and likely No for a rimfire as the firing pin whacks down on the edge of the chamber. There are 22 snap caps but they only last half a dozen clicks.

Always point the rifle in a safe direction when dry firing.

an empty case works in a pinch..

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

an empty case works in a pinch..

HELL NO !!!

Piss poor advice !!!

Buy Snap caps that are NOT brass coloured OR dry fire.

Originally Posted by STC

HELL NO !!!

Piss poor advice !!!

Buy Snap caps that are NOT brass coloured OR dry fire.

What why?

Originally Posted by Kelton

What why?

Because somebody will confuse a once fired case with a live round and kill his neighbour.

Dry fire practice is only ever done with snap caps, that are of non-brass colour (most often red), or nothing at all, depending on the rifle model (most centrefire rifles are perfectly fine to dry fire)

Originally Posted by STC

Because somebody will confuse a once fired case with a live round and kill his neighbour.

Dry fire practice is only ever done with snap caps, that are of non-brass colour (most often red), or nothing at all, depending on the rifle model (most centrefire rifles are perfectly fine to dry fire)

If someone confuses a fired case with a live round then the dumbfuck shouldn’t be around firearms. There used to be plenty of snap caps around that simply had a piece off nylon or some plastic pressed into primer pocket of empty case.

Originally Posted by STC

Because somebody will confuse a once fired case with a live round and kill his neighbour.

Dry fire practice is only ever done with snap caps, that are of non-brass colour (most often red), or nothing at all, depending on the rifle model (most centrefire rifles are perfectly fine to dry fire)

What about the lack of pointy thing sticking out of the case mouth? Iv trained all my dogs with shot gun round cut in half and all the good stuff tipped out so they just get the primer ignition crack and even so always pointed at the ground safe practice starts well before you chamber a round mate and we’ll after for that matter

If Farmer John is ever going to come back from tailing the lambs he has got some reading to do.

In theory a real primer will soon get dented in and not cushion the firing pin. Supposedly, commercial snap caps have rubber or spring loaded “primers”.

Snap caps are also useful for practising feed, bolt running, reloading the mag etc which I do in the dark, by feel.

I make it a rule to never have both live ammo and the red snap caps out at the same time.

Originally Posted by Bagheera

In theory a real primer will soon get dented in and not cushion the firing pin. Supposedly, commercial snap caps have rubber or spring loaded “primers”.

Snap caps are also useful for practising feed, bolt running, reloading the mag etc which I do in the dark, by feel.

I make it a rule to never have both live ammo and the red snap caps out at the same time.

if a spent primer is good for say 3 other pings..a box of 20 will let you ping 60 times..... if you cant tell difference between a spent case and a loaded one...you shouldnt be near a firearm.....
no different to 5 sandfilled shotgun cases to practice shucking the pump quickly.....