Thread: Marlin 795 trigger help

The main issue with the 795 is that the sear-hammer interface is designed by lawyers. IE: the angle on the sear is such that the sear has to actually slightly over-cock the hammer as you pull the trigger for the sear to release the hammer. This is not a mechanically efficient thing to do, so it makes the trigger quite heavy. If you look closely at the trigger assembly when it's out of the gun you can see it happen. They also weren't known for great finish quality so you usually get a bit of a gravelly trigger pull as a bonus.
From very limited experience, this seems to be common across the 795 family that shares the trigger group.

Swapping a recoil spring can sort of solve this issue by putting less load on the sear-hammer interface, but you then also risk light primer strikes. I also suspect that a lighter hammer spring may result in the bolt slamming back harder at the back end of its travel more than it should because the bolt recoil spring is pretty light as it is, and Marlin incorporated a recoil buffer, so it has always been at least a bit of an issue. The hammer-spring assembly definitely robs the bolt of some momentum on recoil, just not sure how much.

The best solution I've found is very, very, very careful adjustment of the sear geometry using stones. Fixing the sear geometry massively reduced the trigger pull weight without making it dangerous. What you end up with is still very much a cheap trigger and is nowhere near that of a high quality gun, but you can get it to where it's a crisp consistent break.
Get it wrong and you end up with a permanently unusable gun, so for whoever is reading this on the internet if don't already know how to do this yourself, don't. Take it to a gunsmith, it'll be cheap for them to do it.

After doing this you could move on to lighter springs, but there would be diminishing returns at that point... you may be able to get the trigger pull weight down, but you'll probably start to run into issues with light primer strikes.