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Thread: Modifying a suppressor

  1. #1
    Member Tommy's Avatar
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    Modifying a suppressor

    Have a Waitaki 223 stainless can in 1/2x28 surplus to requirements, which got me thinking that it's just the right thread to go on my 9mm AR if only it had a bigger hole down the middle. Would it be possible to just stick it in the lathe and jam a 10mm bit down it, or is it a bit more complex than that? It's a one piece setup and I don't know how the baffles are affixed. Or should I just sell it and chuck the cash towards a proper one?
    Identify your target beyond all doubt

  2. #2
    Member Walker's Avatar
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    If you don't mind the real possibility of stuffing it! The baffles are held in by the roll crimp on the front so will spin instead of drill.

  3. #3
    Member 40mm's Avatar
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    billy t james would have just shot a 9mm through it.
    Beaker, Friwi, 300CALMAN and 1 others like this.
    Use enough gun

  4. #4
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    Using a lathe, put a nice tapered point on a piece of 10mm steel rod (longer than the can), put the base of the can over a hole in a piece of 4x2, oil the rod and drive it through the can from muzzle to base with a hammer. This method is self-centering, will open out the baffles and put a rearward facing lip that will help trap the gas.
    Tommy, 300CALMAN and csmiffy like this.

  5. #5
    Member Savage1's Avatar
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    I'm thinking about doing this with my ASE utra, just want to put a 1mm bigger diameter drill bit down it. Any one done it before?

    My projectiles brush the last baffle slightly causing vertical stringing and I don't really want to chop and re-thread.

  6. #6
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    Well funny to have to report that when I had a Waitaki suppressor fitted at Mark's (Waitaki Engineering) shop, he just grabbed a .22 one off the shelf and ran a tool (don't know if it was a drill or reamer) through it and pronounced it 6.5
    mikee likes this.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Savage1 View Post
    I'm thinking about doing this with my ASE utra, just want to put a 1mm bigger diameter drill bit down it. Any one done it before?

    My projectiles brush the last baffle slightly causing vertical stringing and I don't really want to chop and re-thread.
    I am pretty sure they are all welded construction so a 1mm larger drill in a lathe should do the trick.

  8. #8
    Member Tommy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gundoc View Post
    Using a lathe, put a nice tapered point on a piece of 10mm steel rod (longer than the can), put the base of the can over a hole in a piece of 4x2, oil the rod and drive it through the can from muzzle to base with a hammer. This method is self-centering, will open out the baffles and put a rearward facing lip that will help trap the gas.
    Excellent, sounds simple enough. Good from a 6mm hole to a 10mm hole though?
    Identify your target beyond all doubt

  9. #9
    Member 300CALMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gundoc View Post
    Using a lathe, put a nice tapered point on a piece of 10mm steel rod (longer than the can), put the base of the can over a hole in a piece of 4x2, oil the rod and drive it through the can from muzzle to base with a hammer. This method is self-centering, will open out the baffles and put a rearward facing lip that will help trap the gas.
    bloody good idea

  10. #10
    Member seano's Avatar
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    Aren't most 9mm barrels "1/2 36"

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    Member Tommy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seano View Post
    Aren't most 9mm barrels "1/2 36"

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    A lot are, this one isn't
    Identify your target beyond all doubt

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tommy View Post
    Excellent, sounds simple enough. Good from a 6mm hole to a 10mm hole though?
    You will probably find the existing hole closer to 7mm (6mm is a tad tight for a .22 suppressor). A nice long taper (about 40-50mm) well polished and plenty of oil will work fine.
    Tommy likes this.

  13. #13
    Member mikee's Avatar
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    mine went from 223 to 6.5 in the blink of a terminators eye. Works just like it did before too
    Kiwi Greg likes this.

  14. #14
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    Don't try that trick on an Mae, their first blast baffle is a solid piece of steel.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gundoc View Post
    A nice long taper (about 40-50mm) well polished and plenty of oil will work fine.
    You are talking about modifying a silencer right?
    Just in case you've posted on the wrong forum
    Just asking.

 

 

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