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I’m trying to track down a decent scope that has a forgiving eyebox at 10-20x magnification. Ideally a 40mm objective Leupy because I have Alumina caps and really rate them but definitely will appreciate any recommendations at this point.
Currently using a VX3 3.5-10 but even at 10x I’m not loving it, the glass isn’t overly clear and the eye box is pretty poor.
Budget in near future is 1-2k, less the better obviously but will splash for the right thing.
Thanks in advance.
Nearly every scope at full mag will be not that clear. It really depends on the condition. Such as my nx8 4-32 is good as a 4-28x. And my 2.5-25 MARCH is more like a 2.5-22. Literally if you want to use 10 as your furthered, I'd be looking for somthing more like a 18 such as a vx3hd 4.5-18@40. Also somthing with a 30mm tube woiod allow more light through than a 1 inch, and the bigger objective the better also. So maybe a vx5hd ?
Most scopes around $2000 are pretty good these days, the main thing to avoid is the really big magnification ranges, stick to a 4x, 5x, 6x etc and you shouldnt have an issue.
The Leupold VX3 series suffers a bit because it's such an old optical design, while it's been tweaked over the years they are a very old scope design.
Hard to beat the VX5hd for a hunting rifle in that price range.
They have a very forgiving eyebox and don't loose optical quality at higher magnification.
Couple pointers just to clarify....Quote:
Originally Posted by Larskramer
The vx3 HD is 4.5-14 not 18
And a 30mm tube does not allow more light in it allows for more adjustment, a bigger objective let's more light in :thumbsup:
Agree if you want to use 10x as your top then get something like a vx5 3-15 or a swaro 2.5-12 better glass will give better image quality.
Some of the Meopta scopes retain full clarity at Max power, my Optika6 3-18x50 is superior in this respect to a Delta Titanium 4-20×50, Sightron S111 and a Leupold VX5 3-15 I used to have. A Swaro 3-18 also got sold on from here cause it was a poor performer at higher magnification, and while I've never owned a Nightforce I've peered through enough of them to be pretty sure they mostly share the same issue - it's very common a probably to do as much with the final set-up and testing of the individual scope as much as glass quality.
Eyebox "design" is a different thing again but you can usually beat it by developing a consistent rifle mounting habit, and that has the dual benefit of considerably improving your shooting!
You get it though, I'm more a nightforce /march man. Although I always thought a bigger tube would help allow more light through in some way ?Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyb
as soon as you get above the vx3 the leupold eye boxes get tons better
even the VXR range has the vx5/6 type eye box
Its important when setting it up to check that you are still in the optical envelope at full magnification as it goes from probably 6-7 inches at low power to 2-3 at full power
I think that generally this is an issue that can be fixed by simply spending more money. I did have this issue, for example, with a Sightron STAC 4-20x50, it was great at lower power but lost a little clarity at high power. Of the scopes that I currently own that have perfect clarity at Max magnification are. 3-18 V6 Zeiss, 4-16 V4 Zeiss, 4-24 Delta titanium and Vortex Viper Gen 2 5-25. Out of all of these probably one of the best value for money buys would have to be the Delta scopes.
Do you rate the Vortex Viper Gen 2 5-25? at least compared to similar priced scopes. Looking at purchasing one, I like all the features and plenty of reviews online just dont have access to a demo model to compare optical clarity.Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropak
@BRADS is the Vortex expert on here.
Only had this one for a short while but the first thing that struck me was how clear it was at 25x mag its on Par with the Zeiss V6, at least in normal light conditions, the Zeiss might beat it in lower light, I'd be disappointed if it didn't. The crosshair is good its just the right thickness for fine work but has a really good illumination which covers not just the centre of the reticle but extends about 1/2 way out, there is no flare off the illumination its very good. The zero stop take a bit of working out but once you have that sorted then I think its a good system. Clicks are positive and tracking seems fine. One good thing about the zero stop setup in these scopes is once you have it set to so called "zeroing mode" you have no clicks so you can work with really fine adjustment using just the friction of the elevation dial. Also comes with a screw on sunshade which is a nice touch.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavieyJones
Do you run yours with a rail? I'm looking at mounting to a remington 700 and prefer the look of mounting with Talley rings. Would I still get at least 30 MOA adjustment on 0 MOA rings?Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropak
There are two aspects to this:
Exit pupil is just objective dia / mag so can be solved by carrying more glass or installing a custom cheek piece.
Change in eye relief with mag power. Not sure about this but could depend on optical design and $$ spent. Try looking at manufacturers specs which sometimes give arrange of values if they are very honest. Its outside the $2000 range of course, bulky and heavy but my PMII 3-12x50 seems pretty good for this.
Also check out mounting leeway considering tube length and constraints on ring location if two piece mounts across a very short or long action or if your length of pull is outside the usual range (12-14”). Top range scopes publish every dimension online to help this.
Mine is on a Bergarra HMR, so a Remington clone. I use a 20moa rail with Leupold medium height rings, I need to go higher with the mounts, the magnification dial is too close to the rail. Yeah the Talleys are nice but I intend to use use for longer ranges so went for the 20moa rail just in case. Having said that, the Vortex has a huge range up elevation adjustment, around 70moa.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavieyJones
Have you tested to see the total elevation adjustment you have?Quote:
Originally Posted by zeropak
no not yetQuote:
Originally Posted by DavieyJones
Nope purley more up little swaros suck light just as well as the big tubesQuote:
Originally Posted by Larskramer
As has already ben discussed here, setting up your scope height and comb height on your stock, so you have a consistent view through your scope is vital. This will remove the constant searching for the scopes sweet spot.
Physics dictate how small that sweet spot is, regardless of the scope manufacturer, cost, or design.
As you will already have figured out, the sweet spot (projected image) gets smaller with increasing magnification. The math is pretty easy.... Objective lens diameter in mm divided by the magnification, is the size in mm that you will see through the ocular lens. So on a scope with a 40mm objective lens at 4x mag, the projected image is 10mm, which is easy to find. The same scope at 20x mag will only be projecting a 2mm image. If you have not set up your stock and scope for a consistent cheek weld, you will perceive the 2mm projected image as fussy, and hard to find. Not a scope issue, but rather a less than optimal setup of your rifle.
So, to get a easier to find image at the ocular lens at given magnification, the only thing that can be adjusted is the size of the objective lens. Hence why you tend to see 56mm lenses on very high magnification scopes.
The clarity at full magnification is another story, and that is generally speaking where the higher price comes into play. Better optics (clear, bright, no chromatic aberration, no barrel distortion) generally equate to a higher price.
Cheers all for taking the time to answer. Appreciate it.