any tricks to getting off a stuck dpt overbarrel on a browning bar
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any tricks to getting off a stuck dpt overbarrel on a browning bar
May not be helpful but did you grease the threads before you fitted it?
May be helpful, heat the supressor from the outside to around 50_60C this will expand it and make it easier to shift. It worked on a muzzle forward one for me, since then coppercote grease wvery time.
Or try storing it with the suppressor down and give it a generous squirt of WD40 or CRC5.51 where the suppressor meets the barrel
Leave it to soak for a couple of days the try to loosen it.
Be patient it will come off.
Cheers
Pete
Stilsons!!
A hose clamp on the suppressor should help with some extra purchase with which to torque it.
I would say some gentle heat would help, it's not like they don't get hot when used.
strap wrench or oil filter wrench, wont take much
And don't store with the suppressor attached.
You have to if they're seized on GMQuote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
And then you have to start asking awkward questions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maca49
If the normal penetrants are not loosening it then try Kroil or Mouses Milk. Both are excellent products.
+1 mouse milk penetrating oil.
To build on what Marty Henry and P38 said - pull the action, pump as much penetrating oil as you can manage in there - from the back where it contacts the barrel, from the front and try to get it to drop down past the baffles to the muzzle. Try to go for a dedicated penetrating oil, it gives that little bit extra over things like WD40 and the like. Then hit it with a heat gun until it's just uncomfortable to touch (~60-80*C). You don't need or want to go nuts and burn the paint/finish off your suppressor or have any heat colouring whatsoever anywhere.... just at or past the point you can't hold onto the suppressor with bare hands. Focus on the base of the suppressor, but also down from the front end of the suppressor towards the crown. What you're aiming for is the suppressor to heat and expand just enough to suck the penetrating oil in and break whatever corrosion or mechanical lock that has formed. The barrel will heat a bit but that's not your goal. Ideally you'd like the barrel to stay cool/contracted and the suppressor to expand away from it, but the world isn't ideal so don't worry too much, that's just the concept behind it.
If it doesn't work the first time, take a break, let it cool and try again. If that still doesn't work, flood the whole thing with penetrating oil (or immerse the whole suppressor past the section threaded to the barrel in oil) and leave it for a day in a warm place. Drain the excess oil from the suppressor, wipe it down with solvent so you can get a good grip, and repeat process daily until it works. It's pretty rare it doesn't work the first time or two though.
Also make sure you're turning the suppressor in the right direction ;)
Put 5 rapid shots down it and should come free
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Some helpful tips here so grease thread first & no storing them attached anything else ?
Im suprised no one has suggested cutting it off yet. Oops I just did!Quote:
Originally Posted by Boaraxa
Why are people advising to remove and clean before storing? Gunsmiths and barrel makers have to earn a living too. Barrel-rot from failing to remove the suppressor and clean the barrel after every use, means a stuffed barrel quicker than waiting for a hunter to shoot a barrel out.
I was going to but ya bet me to it, so just use Brute Force:ORLY:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty Henry
Iv never used one before , so do u pull the suppressor to bits & clean that as well after use ? presuming once the barrel has had a patch through it suppressor can go back on even in storage ? Are the A-Tec suppressors any good ?Quote:
Originally Posted by JWB
Vice grips!
Leave the suppressor off in storage even after cleaning the rifle. Not many suppressors are made for pulling apart to clean.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boaraxa
Powder residue is hygroscopic.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boaraxa
From the DPT instructions:
During shooting condensation is created inside the suppressor, containing amongst others ammonia (mixture of burnt powder and water). Failure to remove the suppressor within a reasonable period of time after shooting will cause rust to form in the gun barrel. It is therefore practical to unscrew the suppressor after shooting on a range before packing the firearm for transport. When hunting the suppressor must be removed after the end of the hunt. Store the suppressor so that air can flow freely through it and dry it out, if suppressor is put away wet a white powdery build-up may occur on the baffles, in this case just wipe it off and wipe thin oil over the baffles. When the suppressor is dry it is advantageous to spray a little oil (aerosol) into the suppressor. In short, treat the suppressor as you would treat your rifle.
If you want a really good penetrating oil, use a product called Pentron, about $30 bucks a can, but haven't found anything that beats it!!
Wise words from DPT, pretty much our instructions as well for after use steps.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moutere
Suppressors themselves do not usually need much maintenance, if we are talking about typical hunting use round count yearly.
Best Regards!
Tuukka Jokinen
Ase Utra sound suppressors
@BoaraxaQuote:
Originally Posted by Boaraxa
I've run an A-Tec suppressor for a number of years now,
in my opinion it is very good.
I just got my hands on one yesterday cant believe how quite it is (first ) iv used on a centre fire ,no ear muffs required :) really impressed it weighs 12 oz so adds a bit of weight but I like it.
@BoaraxaQuote:
Originally Posted by Boaraxa
I run this one on a Sako FinnLight in 6.5,as I said I think it's very good
Modular silencers
The CMM4
I've been caught before and seized the first to modules so am carful now to take it off and loosen the modules after a range session while thy are still warm.
Going to try a DPT on my 30 06 just not sure which one.
So did the suppressor come off?
weetbix
?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst
Shoot it!!! Lots and lots... get it hot and then have another go..
More energy for the nut behind the butt to unscrew it.Quote:
Originally Posted by 300CALMAN
wrapped in inner tube with hose clamp on and easy turned off with big pliers
If the problem is still there a year later it's a real tight one.Quote:
Originally Posted by crewe2
hammer a large screwdriver through it, then use the screwdriver for leverage.
Failing that, found some left handed ammo and a couple shots will un thread it.
Don't be silly. He's from Gore, not Ponsonby.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40mm
well the six fingers on his left hand and the extra webbing between them should provide enough grip and leverage to get it undone then :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
The webbing is only for coasters.Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyb
What, you rest your beer on them?Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
Good grief no. The pubs never used to shut over there anyway. The webbing would grow between their digits on account of the weather, ... but you must never mention the weather, they're a bit sensitive about it. Oh, and if you hear the banjos it's too late to turn back.Quote:
Originally Posted by tanqueray
Has anyone tried this stuff? https://www.napieroflondon.co.nz/pro...-125ml-aerosol