How important is it to choose a scope with zero stop? Does it have the potential to mess things up when you return to your sighting zero if you dont have the zero stop?
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How important is it to choose a scope with zero stop? Does it have the potential to mess things up when you return to your sighting zero if you dont have the zero stop?
hey yogi as long as you know where zero is ie notes or click count writen down it shouldnt be a problem but it is nice to be able to just turn it back to zero;)
I would rate it as 'desirable' rather than 'necessity'.
-You could muck it up, but usually you are returning to zero under less pressure than when you were 'dialling-up', so you can be a bit careful.
-many scopes have turrets that can be reset to zero, so you only have to turn back to zero each time. (as opposed to true "zero stop" which is a mechanical stop at the same position).
Hope that helps.
So if the scope doesnt have a zero stop, then does it have a larger dial up range? The leupold mark 4 doesnt have a zero stop but has a larger dial range compared to the swarovski z5 which it does have the zero stop. Or is this due to the 30mm tube vs 25mm?
It's because swarovski have tacked an afterthought turret onto a hunting scope whereas the Mk4 is made for it
Comparing apples with apples- No.Quote:
Originally Posted by yogi
The zero stop will just stop you from accessing the bottom of the elevation range below your zero. (it will stop you form 'dialling down').
Apart from situations with a longer range zero (say 300yds) I would think it would be rare for people to dial below their zero.
Iv never found it to be any real advantage. Competition shooting may be different
Thanks for the replies guys. I am slowly narrowing a scope choice down for the 7mm rem mag sendero. Possibly go for a mark 4 4.5-14x50 but not sure about the 50mm front lens being to big and heavy for hunting. maybe a vx3 4-4.5x40?
I reckon you won't really notice the weight difference.Nothing wrong with either options, the price difference is significant between the Mk4 & VX3! I'd go the 50mm.
The mark 4 would be built stronger and have better dials wouln't it or not?
Hi Yogi, I have a Leupold VX6 3-18x50. I consider it to be the best scope I have owned to "look through". I put a CDS turret ( simply a MOA one not linked to any load so I could determine the drop adjustment for myself, and its simply brilliant on my 6.5x55 out to about 600 yards. Its accurate but 600 is probably morally too far to shoot a deer; 400 better max for the 6.5x55 IMO ) BUT it hasn't got a turret that moves "up and Down" externally to show you a verner with lines on it for each turn so I got a zero stop addition from Leupold. What a heap of afterthought crap! Have to glue the little ring inside the CDS dial with two sided tape ....lasted about two days so I glued it in place with epoxy....have to be very neat and don't use too much. It now works fine if the CDS turret does not come loose!. There are 3 little grub screws that hold it on to a "post" which does the adjustment. The post is barely 9mm in diameter and isn't large enough to fully support the CDS in the field...it comes loose ! Quite frankly it is a very cheap afterthought and not up to the standard of other scopes of the same price. A mate has a VXR , the turrets are higher but at least it doesn't need a zero stop as it has the one turn height lines so you can tell which turn your on....I like that better in the absence of a proper zero stop.
Your mate Vxr, is it the patrol 3-9x40?
Leupold 3-9x40 VX-R Patrol 30mm Riflescope
Hello!
It is only my 50 cents. IMO zero stop turrets are important for those who shot "tactical" mutiple targets in different long range scenarios and need a "quick and easy" return to zero. Fair enough if you "kind of lazy" or too busy to work out your tactical turrets zero. Another option in scope are the Vortex Viper HS and PST, the HS has the "basic" model with covered turrets but fully marked and designed to be dialed if you wish, all of those scopes line have a system where you adjust the "almost" zero stop with "chins"( I am sorry but not sure if it is how spell), the little things are placed inside of the turret system in a way where you can not go past a full revolutions bellow your zero if you set properly. So, this means, every time you coming back down to you zero you may go past it but, never a full rotation so you can just go up few clicks and you "sorted". Many people think the turrets are to high but as you "learn" how to work and carry your rifle and scope you will just love it. IMO the glass is great and the eye relieve is too thought.
Check Vortex website or YouTube about Vortex Viper HS and variations and Viper PST.
Hope it give another perspective and option.
Please, no offence to those like me who has a "kind of" zero stop or full zero stop turrets ether those who are looking for these options.
You could also look at the vortex hst that has recently been released. Decent optics at a decent price.
*The "chins" that were referred to in the above post are useful little "shims" that stop you from going back past or below zero.
its very important in my opinion, its worth every cent
even more so if your scope has multiple turns
most on here will of forgot to wind back and missed by a metre or so and if they say they havent they are lying
Hahahaha.... I haven't ...... bahahahahahaaaa
wheres the tui billboard when you need it
Mate to be honest I don't need to blame zero stop when I miss .... no need to dial at 200 with a 22-250 ... I'm just a crap shot.
its more for when you been shooting 600+ the trip before then cant hit the target at 100 the next:sick:
You'd need a few turns for a long range 308:)Quote:
Originally Posted by longrange308
Personally think it's a little over rated it your scope is set up properly there shouldn't be a turn under zero, this makes shooting any range easy and saves a few $:)
I like the zero stop personally just eliminates the possibility of human error when you have been shooting a lot of different distance
Or maybe I'm just lazy ;)
Am using both, I have to say I much prefer a zero stop.
Your right had a big rail which helps til I got showin the light and got a better cal:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by BRADS
Been "off line" last 4 weeks or so with trip away with better half, and then farm sitting for mate last week. Guess what part was best !
Returning the turret to a fixed zero stop on the VX6 is IMO very important ( as longrange308 above states) when the turret has no horizontal vernier marks on it because the externals of the turret do not move up and down, therefore you cant tell "what turn" your on should the turret turn "accidently" while the rifle is being carried. (The vx6 has very light sometimes hard to determine clicks and can be moved easily if the rifle should rub on your pack etc.) Last trip I did was a goat cull, with various ranges from Zero (100yds) to around 525 (Ranged with Leica Binos.) therefore I was continually adjusting and returning to zero but I started to shoot very high. Cause was one of the grub screws coming loose ( not unscrewing per say but friction loose on the middle capstan) and the CDS dial adjusted "up" only adjusted"down" intermittently meaning I was gaining in elevation all the time until I was about 40cm too high at 100M ! Leupold say not to over tighten the grub screws, hence the issue. I now tighten them up really tight. I emailed Leupold re this issue and they replied but had no real opinion on it.
Zero stop all the way. Without....it will be a question of when you forget how rotations you are at & miss an animal because your a complete revolution out. I know because I've been there & had that issue. Now use a March tactical which comes with zero stop.
Hi Yogi, meant to say the "zero stop" on the VX6 only allows just less that 1 turn up ( not that thats an issue for me as it equates to over 600 M. ) In other words it stops where you set the zero to, but wont turn up past it either, where as a true zero stop allows the turret to turn "up" past the stop but not down past it....
I've got that scope with a varminting reticle on my 223. Its an awesome piece of kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by yogi
the zero stop is a necessity - I dial the scope for a number of different reasons - different loads have different zeros (measured off the zero stops). In addition to that it's handy to be able to dial for distance and then return the scope to your initial zero without having to remember how many clicks you came up or down ...
the vaminting reticle is awesome - I seldom have to dial because of the ladder
Attachment 30623
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I think some of you guys are confusing the issue here. Zero stop without changing the angle of the scope in relation to the bore is just a quick way of reducing your dial range :P
There are 3 variables at play : internal adjustment range, scope angle and zero stop mechanism.
HillHunter, I suspect what is happening with your setup is that the scope is mounted fairly flat/parallel to the bore. That model scope has 75MOA vertical internal adjustment range, so if you were to mount it on a slanted rail, you would get back some extra turns.
Two ways of getting a "zero stop" without it being a specific feature on a scope is:
1) using Burris Signature Zee rings, with the correct size inserts to get the front of the scope down far enough so that your last turn down is in the zero range.
2) effectively the same setup by getting a custom rail made up to get the front end of your scope down to the required point (paid less than $200 for my last one)
It is always a good idea to leave a bit of dial below zero, the mechanisms of some of the less expensive scopes are a bit suspect at the outer limits of the dial range.
Just zero it and count how much elevation you have left.
If you should get lost its a simple matter of wind all the way up and back down two turns or whatever it is to zero.
If even that is too taxing just look down the bore and scope at something, most scopes have 15-20 moa per turn and that is pretty obviously out with a quick bore sight..
Sent from my GT-S5360T using Tapatalk 2
Had another email from Leupold Support today . They say that they may offer target style turrets for the VX6 "in the future". No indications when in the future. I wouldn't mind betting, given the banter about the afterthought (IMO) zero stop, that they don't more simply offer an "upgrade" and call it something like VX6-MK11 !!! Have had a look at the Vortex PST FFP 4-16x50. Looks quite good for about $1200.
HI EBF, I agree in general with your post, I don't have any issue with the amount of up or down dial movement, but my issue is simply the CDS dial quite easily comes loose at the grub screws that hold it on to the centre "capstan" in the turret. The zero stop once glued in place works well. I may have to use "thread loc" on the grub screws.
Hi Friwi, my mistake...its a Mk4 -
