Thread: Bike Porn - Regardless of the motor, Show off your "two wheeled" beasties

Originally Posted by Mad_Fisho

Day 1 of lockdown purchased a Triumph Daytona 675. Crashed and deregistered but pretty minimal damage!
Has been about 10 years since I've had a road bike so really looking forward to getting back out there!
Top photo was when I picked it up, 2nd photo was stripped right down, bottom photo is it coming back together. Basically ready now, just awaiting the fairings to be repaired then they can be painted and get rid of the horrid flames.
Then re-vin time and back on the road

Attachment 180866

Attachment 180867

Attachment 180868

Go easy if its been 10 ? years..Those 675's are way faster than most would think, they give the liter-bikes a run for their money. I just went the other way and bought a bike I had as a teen; TX650 yamaha..slow, loud, poor-handling and very'Agricultural'

Originally Posted by rewa

Go easy if its been 10 ? years..Those 675's are way faster than most would think, they give the liter-bikes a run for their money. I just went the other way and bought a bike I had as a teen; TX650 yamaha..slow, loud, poor-handling and very'Agricultural'

Yeah I've taken it for a few small rides now that it's almost fully back together and it goes well... Luckily I've been a bit nervous on it, unlike I used to be when I was younger and went everywhere like an idiot!
Good on ya mate - good to be out there aye!

Originally Posted by Mad_Fisho

Day 1 of lockdown purchased a Triumph Daytona 675. Crashed and deregistered but pretty minimal damage!
Has been about 10 years since I've had a road bike so really looking forward to getting back out there!
Top photo was when I picked it up, 2nd photo was stripped right down, bottom photo is it coming back together. Basically ready now, just awaiting the fairings to be repaired then they can be painted and get rid of the horrid flames.
Then re-vin time and back on the road

Attachment 180866

Attachment 180867

Attachment 180868

I've got traction control and engine tuning for one of these, left over from my racing days, if you really want to ask it the question.... while it's in bits, there is some stuff you need to do to solve/mitigate some of the problems they have, especially if you have track days in mind.

Originally Posted by 257weatherby

I've got traction control and engine tuning for one of these, left over from my racing days, if you really want to ask it the question.... while it's in bits, there is some stuff you need to do to solve/mitigate some of the problems they have, especially if you have track days in mind.

She's all back together now - had a bit of a win, turns out they forgot to deregister it so I didn't have to go through the re-vin process
What are the issues you mention mate? The engine tuning I could be interested in, probably not so much the traction control.

Originally Posted by Mad_Fisho

She's all back together now - had a bit of a win, turns out they forgot to deregister it so I didn't have to go through the re-vin process
What are the issues you mention mate? The engine tuning I could be interested in, probably not so much the traction control.

That's really good news. Enjoy and give it a kick in the goolies.

Originally Posted by Mad_Fisho

She's all back together now - had a bit of a win, turns out they forgot to deregister it so I didn't have to go through the re-vin process
What are the issues you mention mate? The engine tuning I could be interested in, probably not so much the traction control.

The 675 Daytona is really short on top end, so it has to be ridden to it's strengths: torque that gets it out of the slow corners, GP level steering and stonking brakes that make it possible to pass the only place it can against the R6. But..... it has problems that get exposed when you become genuinely fast on one.

You need to:
1 - fit a Triumph Rocket 3 oil pressure relief valve.
2 - fit a race sump gasket.
3 - dump the stock rear spring and fit an Ohlins, a 10 if you are between 75 and 85 kg.
4 - raise the triple clamps until flush with the top of the forks.
5 - remove the bumpstops at the bottom of the forks.
6 - change the front and rear sprockets for 15/45 you will be 16/47 at the mo, 520 is best, means the chain as well.
7 - fit tank grips for your knees to carry your body weight allowing your hands and arms to steer not brace on the bars.
The trail numbers on your model 675 are extreme and dangerous in the hands of the inexperienced at genuine fast corner entry. Raising the triple clamps and changing the rear sprockets alters the trail and lengthens the wheelbase, this massively improves mid corner stability and exit ( at the cost of just a little turn in) , removal of the bumpstops allows for much improved trail braking ( the front end valving and springs are good enough until you start running at the front, but the bumpstops are stealing 17mm of useful travel. The sprocket and chain change also allows you to spin the engine up faster and get out using the torque to drive. The re springing of the rear shock gets you compliance from the rear you will not currently have, wheel spin and instability are what the stock spring give you ( unless you weigh a 100kg )

Under hard braking ( not what a road rider thinks is hard braking though) the sump design has all the oil bugger off to the front and it can't be picked up meaning the engine can be scavenging frequently under hard use of the brakes.

I could go on for a bit, but I'll stop there for now.

I'll leave you with a pic of a multiple title winning Daytona.

For those of you on trail bikes, I cannot recommend the Tubliss system highly enough. Especially on the back end.
For competitive riders, Mousses are most probably better, but for heading bush on a two wheeler you cannot beat the added traction the Tubliss setup offers.

The photos below are of my Michelin S12 with 90 hours on it...mostly ridden at 5psi Occasionally zero psi, and sometimes at 10psi if on an organised trail ride with gravel road sections.

Once you get the hang of fitting (and maintaining!!!) the setup they are pretty bulletproof. And a puncture takes mere minutes to sort and you are off again. Not like getting a puncture in a tube



While there was still some rubber left, a nice new nobbly with sharp edges gets up up the steep stuff with a whole lot less drama



An added bonus of having a tyre last so long, is when you eventually swap it for a new one, you have mastered the bike with poor traction for so long you look like a pro when the new tyre 'gives you wings'

Originally Posted by XR500

For those of you on trail bikes, I cannot recommend the Tubliss system highly enough. Especially on the back end.
For competitive riders, Mousses are most probably better, but for heading bush on a two wheeler you cannot beat the added traction the Tubliss setup offers.

The photos below are of my Michelin S12 with 90 hours on it...mostly ridden at 5psi Occasionally zero psi, and sometimes at 10psi if on an organised trail ride with gravel road sections.

Once you get the hang of fitting (and maintaining!!!) the setup they are pretty bulletproof. And a puncture takes mere minutes to sort and you are off again. Not like getting a puncture in a tube

Attachment 182618

While there was still some rubber left, a nice new nobbly with sharp edges gets up up the steep stuff with a whole lot less drama

Attachment 182619

An added bonus of having a tyre last so long, is when you eventually swap it for a new one, you have mastered the bike with poor traction for so long you look like a pro when the new tyre 'gives you wings'

I put off doing the rear tyre on my 250 for way to long. Was like a whole new bike!! Hmm might need to look into the tubliss

2012 KTM xcf 250 wicked bike coming from a crf230 for years

No pics but Mrs Finnwolf and I went for a ride on our Royal Enfields, with the weather being the way it was it would have been mad not to eh?

Only thing better would have been hunting…

Rode the Haast several times on the old XR500 before it was sealed. Boy what a blast! Big sweeping corners on the eastern side. Tapped out pretty much as fast as she would go. Lovely hard packed gravel with bugger all potholes. heaven

Originally Posted by XR500

Rode the Haast several times on the old XR500 before it was sealed. Boy what a blast! Big sweeping corners on the eastern side. Tapped out pretty much as fast as she would go. Lovely hard packed gravel with bugger all potholes. heaven

Fun in the day, I'm sure. Makes the hair on my 65 year old neck stand on end now though.

Originally Posted by XR500

Rode the Haast several times on the old XR500 before it was sealed. Boy what a blast! Big sweeping corners on the eastern side. Tapped out pretty much as fast as she would go. Lovely hard packed gravel with bugger all potholes. heaven

Got to just over 160kph in my car on that piece of road, a rooster trail of dust and stones like you wouldn’t believe!

And I found turning the steering wheel in either direction didn’t amount to much change in direction…

Originally Posted by Finnwolf

Got to just over 160kph in my car on that piece of road, a rooster trail of dust and stones like you wouldn’t believe!

And I found turning the steering wheel in either direction didn’t amount to much change in direction…

Yep, steering by accelerator