Hopefully picking up a 2014 model this week. Anyone here done an EGR delete? Also is it worth taking it in for a tune.
Cheers.
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Hopefully picking up a 2014 model this week. Anyone here done an EGR delete? Also is it worth taking it in for a tune.
Cheers.
Which model are you looking at - the 3.2L? Get a good fuel system service and check if so, and find someone with a decent datalogger that can hook up and see what the fuel system is doing. If you get one that has had crap through it or an injector is kaput it's likely the thick end of 9K. The issue mine has is the fuel pressure modulation valve isn't closing fast enough - it's leading to a pesky limp mode issue which requires the engine to be powered down and restarted to clear. This valve is commonly called the suction control valve, but not what it does. It controls pressure to the injectors, and in my case the ecu is saying ramp pressure down and the valve isn't closing so the pressure is staying sky high and taking it out of specification leading to the error.
Point there is most mechanical outfits when presented with an issue like that on these common rail engines, will not invest time in diagnosis - they will just replace the injection pump complete and the entire injector and fuel rack setup. Which may or may not fix the issue - so in this case prevention is better. Get em fully checked and serviced so you know what you're getting.
Sweet. Yes it’s the 3.2l
i would remove the air intake hose and see how much grud is in the intake manifold too. our triton was literally 1/3 full of goopy tar.
i found that 2 bottles of "royal egr cleaner" took most of it out. i then fiendishly told the engine management system that it was always below 0 celcius outside and that turned off the egr
You reckon that EGR cleaner works ok then? I have my reservations given how sticky that carbon shit is...but its a 7-9 hour job to pull the intake manifold out of a V8 cruiser motor...Quote:
Originally Posted by gonetropo
Next one is definitely getting a catch can plumbed in.
Yep catch can it a good mod for a new or newish vehicle. Good to fit if you have a dung out first on a higher km engine.
I bought a catch can & EGR delete kit out of Aussie for my Hilux & fitted it at 45000kms.
Sent from my SM-S906E using Tapatalk
i tried several. "royal" worked the best. do it outside on a windy day though!Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshC
took 2 bottles @$25 each, wasnt like a mirror clean etc but took 90% of the crud out
That is definitely one time prevention is better than cure... Shame of it is I was not allowed to do that with the extended warranty I got with mine, probably wouldn't do that again.
The other thing is change the damn fuel filter out every bloody service! It is cheap insurance and the tech gets to physically look at the state of it and solve any bug problems before they start. And if you ask your mechanic to do this, don't do it verbally and believe them. Bastards didn't for me and claimed to have no record of the conversation and still tried to bill me for $9k to change the fuel system out when they found bug. They've had the tank out 4 times on that vehicle now, and still they blame me for not getting the servicing done to spec. They won't see the vehicle back, I'm happy to work with anyone but stating one thing and doing the opposite just pisses me off...
with the mitsi i turned it off electronically, it could be returned to "standard" in 2 minutes.
we now have a 22 d-max. might look at what the same mod would entail on that one
I've put 200k on my 2012 3.2l Bt 50. It's been a good run. Couple of little electrical niggles. BCM decided it didn't like the trailer wiring loom a couple of times - lost all brake lights. Supercheap Auto charge $25 to put a scan tool on it and clear the error code. Mazda dealers in Chch charged over $100 and wouldn't/couldn't tell me what the problem was. Independent auto sparky sorted me out with that bit of advice.
Rubber intercooler pipe split twice. Replaced it both sides with an aftermarket hard pipe kit that was cheaper than one OEM replacement rubber pipe. Had Diesel Tune NZ do a remap for me over 100k ago. Excellent performance upgrade for the $1200 it cost. Then I fitted an electronic throttle controller and that was the best $300 spent. What you think is turbo lag is engineered slow throttle response to help fuel efficiency. With the next ute I'd do the throttle controller first and possibly not worry about the ecu remap.
Also suspension, bar work, snorkel etc etc... none of which helped how much fuel it drinks.
Hey @BMcB what throttle controller did you get?Quote:
Originally Posted by BMcB
It's a Hike It X9.
There's a few different ones on the market. I think they all work the same. Only takes a few minutes to fit and less to remove if you need to.
Came with a throttle controller and all these bits. Attachment 217929Quote:
Originally Posted by BMcB
I dunno, that intercooler pipe issue is something I've never heard happen on a manual box one - no idea why that would be though. Yes on the throttle lag, but again it is much worse on the auto's. the throttle controller does less than the remap on the manuals, but you're rolling the dice on the dual mass flywheel with the manual!Quote:
Originally Posted by BMcB
I have a bluetooth dongle, can read/clear fault codes and also live-report with gauges on most things the ECU does. One thing I've noticed though is that the dongle seems to turn the limp mode and error coding off which is weird. You can see the issue that is causing the coding and associated limp mode on the gauges clear as, but while you can see it the ECU doesn't drop the limp mode or codes. Must be something in the software when the OBDII port is active.
Flatmate just pulled up from the Ford dealer, his manual ranger had split intercooler pipe so went limp mode. Early model no reverse camera etc. Over 200ks on the clock.Quote:
Originally Posted by No.3
Ha there ya go - I've heard of 10 or 11 on the autos and one now for the manual.Quote:
Originally Posted by c-dog
Well being a Triton owner as they are notorious for blocking the EGR intake etc Ive fitted a Provent catch can . These are the best .Apparently some brands are shit and dont have a form of pressure release valve. Ive had the intake cleaned at 100k .Its a different truck now, smoother, quieter,more power .Then fitted an EVC throttle controller which I run on setting 3 , anything more and it’s dangerous . Next purchase will be a Mungi EGR delete kit from Aussie and some silicone intake hosesMungi stops off the crap apparently. The blocking intake creeps up slowly like a hidden cancer, its a prick. I must say that I took tge truck to a Mitsi dealer for the full cleanand I thought there service was excellent.I did this because theyve probably done hundreds. They even have exchange clean intakes ready. Cheers.
Exchange clean intakes ready? That tells you something I guess.
Whats weird, is one owner of a Triton (or a couple in a small company fleet type deal) had his mechanic doing monthly checks on the things, oil capacity not going down on one of them and everything looked good but they did a oil analysis at 50,000k's and the oil was diluted with diesel. Looked a bit deeper into it and the manifold was crudded up, EGR valve crudded up too and not doing it's job properly. Diesel was dribbling in through the injectors and washing down if I recall - lucky catch. Once sorted it was fine, problem never returned.
Yep the invoice says “ fitted exchange intake “ No3. They are apparently a prick to clean so probably get them sonically cleaned in some sort of bath somewhere.. Mines an MN model . 2014. Late model diesels can fill the sump if they dont do a DPF burn properly. Mine hasnt got a DPF apparently.
I've got the model after yours, fitted the munji egr electronic delete from new.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chunk
Seems all good so far @55k tho I think this engine is much less prone to build up than the 2.5.
They all do it(modern diesels) but the 2.5 mitsi was bad for it.
