Thread: Hilux 2006 egr valve

Originally Posted by Mathias

And that's with a catch can fitted....right?

Yes. All that soot just came off with a toothbrush. No solvent required.

Originally Posted by No.3

Could be a good time to just blank the bloody thing off... All it does is spew puke and crud into your intake manifold - not like it actually helps anything apart from a bit of feel good and warming the engine up quicker from cold.

All that an EGR does is directing warm exhaust gas back into the intake, increasing fuel consumption significantly and the complete opposite of what something like an intercooler might do.

the crud from diesel isnt as bad now as from the diesel from marsden point.

Originally Posted by Warthog

All that an EGR does is directing warm exhaust gas back into the intake, increasing fuel consumption significantly and the complete opposite of what something like an intercooler might do.

Not the case.

We’ve been through all of this before on here. There’s a lot of misconceptions about the function of the EGR, how it works, what it does and when. And why guys that want to delete theirs should really understand the science before they do. S

Originally Posted by Flyblown

Not the case.

We’ve been through all of this before on here. There’s a lot of misconceptions about the function of the EGR, how it works, what it does and when. And why guys that want to delete theirs should really understand the science before they do. S

So is deleting it a good thing or not
I know of a couple of guys that had the valve fail and overheated their engine and it was poked.
I've had mine replaced at about 150,000 but was thinking the bypass might be a good idea

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Originally Posted by 25/08 IMP

So is deleting it a good thing or not
I know of a couple of guys that had the valve fail and overheated their engine and it was poked.
I've had mine replaced at about 150,000 but was thinking the bypass might be a good idea

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I wouldn't. No need. Catch can fixes the soot / oil problem.

Post #17 explains EGR function.

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....-000km-104087/

I have egr deleted all my landcruisers
I believe that you can get a tuner to program it to stay closed. Might as well get a re map done at the same time. Usually around $1800
Worth a catch can install or just vent crank case out below engine to keep intake clean.
Talk to a deisel specialist.
Trundles or Tauranga deisel

Originally Posted by Flyblown

I wouldn't. No need. Catch can fixes the soot / oil problem.

Post #17 explains EGR function.

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....-000km-104087/

The main reason I deleted the one on the Ranger is to get rid of the EGR cooler. The cooler is a requirement of the EGR system - to reduce the temp of the exhaust gases getting introduced into the inlet manifold. The EGR cooler is the real weak link in most EGR designs - the cooler failing has taken out more engines than crappy servicing.

Certain engines seem to create more crud from the EGR than others, the EGR delete does do a lot for those. The catch can on the crank case vent again is something that on a low mileage engine with good service history and minimal blowby is not necessary - but on an engine with high blowby is absolutely essential. I've seen a lot of high-hour marine engines that puked all sorts of nasty, and others that you were hesitant to approach with a spanner in case you pissed them off. It's really a case of testing the engine and seeing what it needs for it's condition. But I feel happier with mine knowing the EGR cooler can't fail and fu*k the engine, and the same with the stupid vane pump replaced.

Originally Posted by Flyblown

I wouldn't. No need. Catch can fixes the soot / oil problem.

Post #17 explains EGR function.

https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....-000km-104087/

Not exactly
A catch can will only help stop the oil mist/fumes creates by engine breathing, mixing with the carbon/soot from the exhaust gasses that is getting back into the intake via the EGR system.
A catch can alone won't stop the carbon build up in the intake and on the valves etc.

Deleting the EGR has been proven to help improve engine performance and longevity.
But its not as simple as plugging a vacuum hose or flicking a switch. It needs to be done via an ECU remap.
On the Toyota the EGR is also used to bleed off the excess turbo boost. This can cause an overboost issue and put the engine into limp mode. This also needs to be addressed when remapping. Seen some terrible jobs that have just created problems. There's remapping and then there's remapping. You get what you pay for imo. There's are some dodgy feckers doing remapping that have less than zero of an idea what they're playing with and are creating grenades with pins pulled.

Yes exactly.....

There's still a tiny bit of oil getting through the catch can filter, so whilst the soot remains friable its still a wee big oily, just enough to get it to deposit.

However, very slightly oily soot is easy to clean. I cleaned my EGR again recently after a 3 month flogging around the S Island - takes 2 mins to remove the intercooler and use a gentle bottle brush whilst pushing open the flap. Then stick a powerful vacuum cleaner nozzle and hoover up the crud.

The "proven" part I would like to see. Proven how? Side by side engine comparisons after extended periods in the same operating conditions, one with, one without?

Well maintained Toyota engines left in factory spec generally last very well in my experience. Very few EGRs get the maintenance they need to operate optimally, that's their Achilles heel.

I have my mate who actually does remapping for a job and done hundreds of them.
He is absolutely confident its the right thing to do so jumping in!

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Originally Posted by Flyblown

Yes exactly.....

There's still a tiny bit of oil getting through the catch can filter, so whilst the soot remains friable its still a wee big oily, just enough to get it to deposit.

However, very slightly oily soot is easy to clean. I cleaned my EGR again recently after a 3 month flogging around the S Island - takes 2 mins to remove the intercooler and use a gentle bottle brush whilst pushing open the flap. Then stick a powerful vacuum cleaner nozzle and hoover up the crud.

The "proven" part I would like to see. Proven how? Side by side engine comparisons after extended periods in the same operating conditions, one with, one without?

Well maintained Toyota engines left in factory spec generally last very well in my experience. Very few EGRs get the maintenance they need to operate optimally, that's their Achilles heel.

Geez - some engines pushing the flap is a confirmed DTC/limp mode... Rangers are one like this, the throttle body flap is not really a flap at all - it's a motor driven control device and pushing the flap can break the motor.

Originally Posted by gonetropo

do it outside, preferably on a windy day.
i speak from experience, and the "royal" brand is the one i found worked best

Where does someone purchase the royal EGR cleaner from? I cannot find it?

Went to all the usual places to find something and none sell any EGR cleaners

Originally Posted by SpeightsDrinker

Where does someone purchase the royal EGR cleaner from? I cannot find it?

Went to all the usual places to find something and none sell any EGR cleaners

better to remove it and clean it outside of the car spray cleaners only do so much plus anything that it does remove goes down the line and into turbos, exhausts and dpfs

just did the delete yesterday on my 2011 mitsi challenger took 3 hours and runs alot better without it removed the cooler joined the water hoses and put a resistor in the maf intake temp sensor wire so no egr function and no error lights

Had 3 Rangers at work with 3.2 engines that had EGR cooler issue recalls. So I guess Ford recognised an issue?