Thread: homemade ATV Trailer advice

consider running a heavier beam right up the guts..between your A frame....and if really really clever put slightly smaller box section inside it wit hyour tow hitch attached with a couple of different hole depths to drop bin and lynch pin in..that way you can make it long for easy turning /backing int o shed etc.. the longer the slower it turns... by chucking it right up the guts you strengthen deck too..best of both worlds with your Aframe still there. different wheel base actually has an advantage...it will help flatten out your farm tracks instead of just making ruts deeper..one thing the old trikes were awesome at fixing.... a long drawbar is also easier to lift..having pinged my back on atv trailer its a sore point with me.

Savage1, I'll probably use an A-frame because it will be only 2mm steel so the extra strength might be needed. The design should be a pretty narrow a-frame so hopefully it won't interfere with my turning circle.

The measurements I've worked out have 1m of drawbar in front of the deck. And the deck length is 1600. So 1800 overall from hitch to axle. Should be plenty long enough I reckon, and allows a pretty narrow a-frame which runs right to the back corners of the deck, as shown in my drawing.
Apparently the trx300 only has a 30kg tongue weight limit for trailers. That's pretty light and any trailer would have to be well balanced to not exceed that! The hen house I tow must weigh nearly 80kg at the tongue I reckon. I think I'll put the wheels pretty close to the centre so it's not too front heavy, but I would've thought how I distribute loads in day-to-day use would matter more than anything.