you guys are talking about a ute right? not a truck aye?
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you guys are talking about a ute right? not a truck aye?
Oh you're one of those guys.... yes a hilux is a ute not a truck.. the shame.[emoji15]Quote:
Originally Posted by 40mm
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If its out of warranty get the EGR deleted. Not an easy job to do. There's a few places around that specialize in it though. (look up Kaiapoi Repowers or Extreme Tuning)
If its under any warranty though, leave it alone. Any mods from factory could be used an out of any claim by the warranty company.
My 25 year old hiace (1993) has just clocked 360,000km and still going strong (i mean slow, but un stoppable)
Has hilux running gear so will go most places, and has more room than a poxy ute could ever dream of having.
Also has a nice tailgate/umbrella for hiding from the rain under.
Only drawback I can see is in case of a frontal collision..... but I guess im just living in the danger zone.
Yeah the guys at repowers are good but I'm like 8 hours drive south lol.
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Thanks, the rattle has only just started a thousand or so k's ago and is quite noticeableQuote:
Originally Posted by cambo
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Haha yup.... Ute if you're an aussie, Pickup Truck if you're a yank, and a Remuera tractor if your a JaffaQuote:
Originally Posted by 40mm
Could be a timing chain. We've done a few now. There is a field fix on them. Huge job. Get it looked at when you get the next service done, or before if you're worried.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brakelie
I’ll disagree with Cambo here slightly and say just fit a catch can. I fitted a Provent on mine when new and I assume the EGR is clean as. We did this to about 50 Hilux 1KD-FTVs in WA at the mine after they a bunch developed symptoms of bunged up EGR. Man the restriction was amazing, the gunk was just the worst.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cartman
After the Provents were fitted the 3 vehicles with the highest hours since fitment were selected for inspection. (They spend most of the day idling and tootling about, low kms but constantly running.) Clean as a whistle. Really very good system.
I have heard of a few EGR blanking problems but thats only hearsay, nothing first hand.
However, if your vehicle hasn’t had a can before and no record of the EGR being stripped, I’d get it cleaned out then fit the can, or strip it and blank it. Up to you.
If you go the catch can route, know that I’ve never changed the filter (silly expensive). I wrap them in bog paper to pull most of the oil out, then clean them in petrol, air dry them, go again. Still fine after 100,000km.
Interesting
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EGR is a totally different system to a catch can there @Flyblown.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyblown
A catch can helps stop oily residue getting into the intake system. Is a good idea though to put 1 on a turbo diesel.
EGR is a emission control system where exhaust gas is recirculated into the intake.
To remove the EGR on a common rail engine it requires a specialist to do as the ECU needs to be altered. Its not a diy thing where you can simply block something off. If its not done properly it will fuck shit up.
EGR blanking on an older diesel like a 1KZ Surf or Prado is easy and recommended to help reduce the risk of cracking the heads
Eh? I thought the whole point of an oil catch can was to remove the oil from the recirculated crankcase vent, which would otherwise mix with the hot EGR gases and bake the oil into hard crusty deposits around the EGR port and the intake manifolds?
Basically the oil residue from the breather system gets into the intake via the breather hose from the rocker cover to the intake hose, which is normally pre turbo. It does cause oily carbon deposits in the intake as well.
EGR is emission control for the EURO5/6 rules. PITA and fucks the intake up with horrible crap as you can imagine. Its a separate system to the engine breather. All ends up in the intake though.
Was impossible to remove on CR diesels until recently with some smart cookie coming up with ways to do it.
I spose we can give the aussies credit for the term ute. Them Remuera tractors are a laugh though, I see so many flash harries driving around in most likely ticked up gin palace utes with all the 'serious' 4wd accessories attached. clean as the day they drove off the lot, and fancy alloy wheels.... Makes me laugh, I cant wait for the day when I get to tow some clown out with my van (then pretend im not stuck when it happens to me)Quote:
Originally Posted by cambo
Noticed a black Ranger Raptor in front of me in town today, looked a bit overly pimped out I thought. Sadly I wonder what % will actually be used off road to anywhere near their potential. Am picking most will just be impressing milfs on the school runQuote:
Originally Posted by 40mm
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theQuote:
Originally Posted by Brakelie
that's all those new rangers are good for take em off road give em shit youll end up blowing an engine, the D maxs blow half shafts and rear diffs a lot. better off buying of tech 4wd with out the bells and whistles, just get a v8 land cruiser. that said I own a 08 ranger at 240k with egr removed and inlet cleaned it goes great
Yeah real good at blowing shit upQuote:
Originally Posted by Cartman
WaitQuote:
Originally Posted by Paddy79
Anyone know the go to diesel guys in invercargill?
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touch wood. haha :wtfsmilie:Quote:
Originally Posted by mikee
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cartman
160 will already have a big carbon build up, there is sprays that help to remove it
Catch can to stop vapour mixing with egr or as been said delete it
There is for and against for the deletes but do so research and decide for your self
Have one that I see has 440kQuote:
Originally Posted by mikee
Also if you gave me a v8 cruiser I would trailer it back to youQuote:
Originally Posted by Paddy79
So it wouldn’t shit out on me
A delete will likely fuck my warranty. I'll talk to the Toyota guys. Pretty sure a catch can shouldn't mess with it though. I'll get it done asapQuote:
Originally Posted by longrange308
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It won’t fix what’s already there but will stop anymoreQuote:
Originally Posted by Cartman
Lol not what you want to read after having work done by them, got some details? Pm if preferredQuote:
Originally Posted by longrange308
one of these manufacturers needs to make a 4wd with minimal electronics and tried and proven running gear. and put a new van body on it.
I brought my van (1993) because the newer 4wd hiaces are full time and dont have the hi/lo box.
A wee bit more maintenance due to the age, but the only other option is a mitsi and I cant afford an on call mechanic.
Also a pain due to not wanting to take it onto beaches because of the difficulty in finding a replacement body once it rusts out.
I do miss the low range at times with the AWD Hiace, but if I need it I'm more likely to be in Bighorn with better clearance.Quote:
Originally Posted by 40mm
The old 2.4 YH 4x4 was brilliant. Older brother wasn't too happy when I hauled his trailer out of a field, then hauled his Hilux out after that. Skinny tyres have their uses.
Hoffman diesel mechanics are who I have used in the pastQuote:
Originally Posted by Cartman
One more question about the Hilux, the battery is frequently getting to a point where it is only just turning over the motor, so far it hasn't left me stranded but it is a sinking feeling every time it happens and I am just waiting for the inevitable. Toyota tested the battery and said it was fine and the issue was that the battery is only being charged to 60% to improve the fuel economy. All very noble until you don't open the door to turn off the auto headlights for a few minutes or leave an interior light on. Apparently Prados have a temp sensor which will increase the charge rate in cold weather but not the hilux's. I have a workmate with a newer Hilux who has had to be jump started several times. Is there a solution to this?
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The Hilux has a idle up switch just like the Prado. Has HEAT and a wiggly doofa on it. Only operates until the engine is up to operating temp.
The batteries need 14.1V to keep the battery charged. Hilux's have had an issue with the alternators failing and shorting out the main fuse. Replacement alt needed to fix.
If the battery is not fully charges running it will never charge it properly. It only gives it a surface charge. Testing a battery with a surface charge will give a false reading also.
It will need to be charged then tested.
If the Hilux is sluggish to start it will just create wear on the starter contacts and then they will fail.
@Braklelie
Hilux idle up switch/button
Will either look like this......in the centre consol in front of the gear lever
Attachment 92924
or this....on the RH side panel about knee height
Attachment 92925
@Cartman
This is what I drained out of my Provent catch can this morning. About 2500km worth of condensed oil that would have gone through the intercooler, met with the hot EGR gases and baked onto the inner surfaces of the intake system.
https://vgy.me/eONrY9.jpg
These things are essential. They just are. God knows why the manufacturers didn’t deal with this as OEM.
I'm going to fit a catch can next service.
Fitted some ironman fully adjustables in the front and a sports bar on the backhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0c55507b87.jpg
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@Cartman I assume that your truck has a record of the timing belt being changed at 150,000km? Tappets should have been done too. I was thinking that about now would be a good time to clean that intake system before you fit the catch can, wondering what else you can do while you're there.
Yep cam belt changed at 150. Will get a thorough sort out next service.
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Hoffmans rebuilt my 1KD when it blew up, and had a couple others in there at the same time. So they'll know what they're doing with it ;):DQuote:
Originally Posted by Cartman
In Gore, the guys at AG Diesel are very good.
I learnt a lot about that model Hilux when it came out and I bought one and it crapped out :D
Oh dear. @JoshC, wait was it that failed? Dreaded injector problem?
It was a few moons ago now, just before they released the information about replacing seals and seat in the injectors. I presumably had leaking injectors, which cracked number one, and holed 2 and 3 pistons. Engine just suddenly locked up towing a trailer at highway speed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyblown
Was in the middle of now where, with no cell coverage, so managed to start it and drive it home - albeit very loud and rattly. Got me home though!
It was only like 5000 kms out of warranty and had just been serviced by the dealership in September. A couple or three weeks later they released the bulletin on replacing seats and seals.
Long story short, dealership didn't want to know me, unless I spent $14-18k (not quote, just estimated) on them rebuilding the engine.
So I towed it home, ripped the motor out, stripped it, dropped it in town and picked it up rebuilt with new injectors a couple weeks later and put it back in. Cost me less than $6000.
Ran the new engine in, then sold it to a mate and bought a landcruiser. He treated that hilux like sh*t and put a couple hundred thousand kms on it with no issues, then wrote the truck off when someone t-boned him at an intersection.
Double oh dear. That whole episode was not Toyota's finest hour. Strictly speaking it was Denso who was at fault. Their common rail injection systems are found in about half the cars and trucks manufactured, not just Toyota, and they had similar problems across a wide range of vehicles, especially in Europe.
Dealerships lost a huge amount of credibility. I despise most dealerships, bunch of crooks. We were in Aus while most of this was going down, the problem was double as bad there in the north of the country, because on top of the leaky seals problem there was widespread fuel contamination due to bulldust, rust particulates and water ingress into old bowser tanks in monsoon areas. The factory filter couldn't deal with it, when the first ones came out on the 1KD it was supposed to be "inspected" every 12 months which they didn't do, and never changed which is insane. Then they altered the service interval to replacement every 40,000km. Which is still insane. In NZ I see the interval is now 30,000km or when the light comes on cos its detected water by which time it could be too late. I changed by pre-filter every 20,000 and the factory filter every 10,000km.
The holed pistons problem is usually caused by an irregular injector spray pattern and dripping, which in turn is caused by damage to the injector nozzle from water or other contaminents. Cockies and forestry guys that refuel a lot from jerry cans and old tanks on the farm are particularly at risk. I always advise additional fuel filtration on these vehicles. Mine looks like this:
Attachment 93417
