Would it be safe to say that your tap for the hose on the side or your house is generally mains pressure, and not reduced as could be the cause with internal plumbing?
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Would it be safe to say that your tap for the hose on the side or your house is generally mains pressure, and not reduced as could be the cause with internal plumbing?
Outside tap will typically be the same pressure as the rest of the cold water system. This unless you have a low pressure HWC and the outside tap is connected to that feed line for some strange reason.
So outside at mains pressure as per the CW system, or is the internal CW reduced?
Trying to chase down low pressure, on the whole in and out system, but starting to wonder now if the mains is just shite
Some newer installs require a pressure regulator on the house incoming supply. I had to put on on the last place I was in when I installed all new tap ware with ceramic seats. Mains supply can really spike up at times.
We've had 2 days rain in 3 months here!
We're on top of the hill and the tank isn't much higher in elevation.
Must watch neighbours hose next time they are using it and see if theirs is shit too.
Fit a booster pump?
How old is the house? If it is a typical old Wellingtonian dwelling probably has a galv supply and is rusted up. Your not on a shared supply?
My bet supply
Built in 1970
There is a ring main in the street it appears from council drawings and each house comes off that.
Thinking the lack of head pressure from the tank is main reason?
As the others have said, it could easily be the lack of mains pressure because the lack of drop from the local reservoir tank or small pipe diameter connecting to the mains, leak in the pipe in the garden somewhere (although that would show up pretty clearly at the mo).
If the pressure varies during the day then basically its the mains pressure that's the prob.
When the house i'm in was built a 25mm connection was standard for it. If you built it today it needs a 32mm connection because the pressure has dropped (council turned the pressure down as it was easier than finding all the leaks in the public system.
Councils have been known to drop the pressure. Wankers at Twizel did that, used to be about the best there was. Then they needed to pull it in with all the subdivisions they approved, now it's a low ok.
Want a pump Spanner? That will fix your low pressure, of course you'll need a swimming pool to pump from
Checked the pressure through the arvo and tonight - no change
Checked the toby was fully open - it was, noticed there was a new one fitted (been 2 yrs since we lived here - so done in that time - cant remember what it was like - maybe we have been spolit since?)
POSSIBILITY the council has put a restrictor in there when they fitted the new one, but I'd have thought it would reduce volume/flow, and with everything shut the pressure will equalise across and thus be there when first cracking the tap
I need to make up a fitting when I go back to work and test the deadhead pressure.
Talked to someone tonight - we worked out there 'should' be 3 bar-ish based on 100ft head pressure from the reservoir.
Need to check the actual difference in altitude.
We're currently on gas hw, and will be pulling it and putting an infinity in, all walls will be out so if anything needs to be done,trying to plan ahead now
Want decent pressure :omg:
All copper pipe? Put a 20 mm supply to /your infinity for volume aye. Just doing the same op at my batch sick of electricity bills.
Got the pipes ready to go in the shed.
I connected my house outlets to mains pressure and used fusiotherm piping - best stuff available , as I was sick of shit pressure now its AWESOME.
Same here at work. Cant even wash your car with the hose. Got room for a 2000 or even 1000 litre tank to put someplace where it wont be an eyesore ?
Put mains in the top on a ballcock. Fit a powerfull water pump on the botton side (so flooded suction) small air pressure tank and electronic controller
then replace your tap washers and stand back !! Sometimes its the only fix and costs a little but once done its done. Unless on a slope no power may
mean no water so doesnt hurt to have a garden tap before the pump so you can get some simply by gravity. Then in the big quake you ll also have a three or four day water supply
dependant on tank size ??
Smallest tank you can get to turn the water over quickly without letting the pump run dry although the good un Chink pumps have run dry protection.
Tank in the shade to keep temp down a bit.
hey even 500 litres may do it dependant on water usage per day. Watch your neighbours faces when you hose them down from your front lawn ... 25 or 32mm from pump to house seeing you re pulling it too bits..
Thats one solution. Sure there may be others ... :thumbsup:
Neighbours got the same problem? Looks likely to be council supply
Attachment 7716
This is tank height. As you can see not a lot of drop
If you re running on that height gravity feed a pneu tank by itself I reckon wont help it ll just fill to the pressure available IE that height of gravity and
things will remain the same. Only way to increase pressure if thats all you have is to put in a pump. Only reason to have a reserve tank is if you re boosting their supply
you dont want to come home to find damaged pump cos they turned everyones water off for 1/2 hr whilst dicking around with the supply cos they usually dont tell you.
Pnuepress with a pump yes
We run small units on the ship to boost pressure to areas too far away from the main CW system
Wouldnt be very big due to where it would be fitted and the damn things are worth a fortune
Might just tell the mrs to stop whinging about it LOL
My garden hose takes ,must be 4 or 5 min to fill the dog bucket .
It sucks
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lol.
There is absolutely no such thing as suction....only the absence of pressure.
Big gum on shared driveway im pretty sure has strangled my alkathen supply pipe, pressure but no flow. Would mean digging up drive to fix and that aint happening.
Ok - so did some poking around today
The gas HW cylinder (old) is fed by a NEFA PR v/v, (been fitted where the header used to be)
Can this be cranked up a little?
I cant find where the mains water enters the house.
The closest outside tap to the rd, is attached to the block of the garage - on the backside there is no pipework - its inside the block
hmmm
You can get a pressure relief vv that fits on the roof overflow but watch the pressure as a low pressure tank may go bang.
The little in line pumps work well have put a couple into some old ladies houses hooked to the shower. Problem is the quality of the chink pumps
[QUOTE=Maca49;90638]You can get a pressure relief vv that fits on the roof overflow but watch the pressure as a low pressure tank may go bang.
The little in line pumps work well have put a couple into some old ladies houses hooked to the shower. Problem is the quality of the chink pumps[/QUOTE
That water supply is probably on telecom wireless?
For my house yes the outside tap next to where the incomer is is mains while the house inside was all low pressure, its now all high pressure.
:thumbsup:
My house is 1968 so its possible yours is the same layout. NB It also acts as a handy drain point if you need to work on the plumbing so I'd suspect its common. Any other taps outside could be either but mains would make the most sense, but having seen the abortions under ppls houses anything is possible.
:sick:
Yes put a dead head gauge on it, must depend on where in Wellington, my pressure is 90~100psi. (6bar plus) if you have 3bar (45psi) incoming that is a problem.
I cant see the council would put a restrictor in (never heard of it), more likely they damaged the incoming pipe putting in the new valve. Its probably 3/4 inch (20mm) but 1/2inch (15mm) is possible. You shouldnt see a big variation between no flow and full flow a few psi (like 5) at most if you do say the gauge drops 50% there is a damaged pipe somewhere. If its 45psi doubt the council will do much.
If you are putting in a gas unit that needs mains you should be able to find a cut in point before the tank. If possible though convert the house all to mains but that probably means a new hot water cylinder about $1k ish for a stainless steel unit...I see brand new peter cox 10 year stainless steel waranteed units on Trademe quite often. if you think you might do solar heating then put a 300litre one in and not a 180litre thats about $1600.
Oh and the NR valve, I'd expect it to have a filter, might be blocked but unlikely.