What paint and primer

Hi all,

I am currently repairing a trailer that has suffered a fair bit of rust, and a horrific previous paint job.
Am currently replacing some sections of the steel and grinding/sanding off the old rust bubbling paint job.

I am after some recommendations on what primer and paint to use? Sytle and brand.
Was thinking some sort of etch primer (not sure what brand), as I am using some new steel.

But not sure what top coat, have heard that the Hammerite is a good hardwearing paint,
but short of just walking into Bunnings or Mitre 10, not sure where to start with what and where to get decent paint.

Cheers

Altex paints in Tauranga put out some good systems for this work

por15 is fine as is hammertite .... the choice is all up to you ... both hammertite and por15 are self leveling ,si paint brush is fine .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by stumpy

por15 is fine as is hammertite .... the choice is all up to you ... both hammertite and por15 are self leveling ,si paint brush is fine .

---

Is POR15 a primer topcoat all in one deal?
Looks like there are a few options from them, like a direct to rust and etch primer options.

You can buy a rust converter to kill the rust before you pair it?

Wattyl Super Etch is a good rust preventive after you have cleaned up. But like Maca said, maybe deal to it with a rust converter first to make sure you have killed it all or else it could pop up again. Good industrial primer & topcoat is whats needed.

CRC rust converter-Wattyl etch primer-2 pack top coat. Resene do a good series of two pack enamel products with are tough as @Rushys snags :P
I cant recall which one is suited to that type of job so best pop in to your local agent, or better still, an auto panel shop. They will sort you

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pengy

CRC rust converter-Wattyl etch primer-2 pack top coat. Resene do a good series of two pack enamel products with are tough as @Rushys snags :P
I cant recall which one is suited to that type of job so best pop in to your local agent, or better still, an auto panel shop. They will sort you

---

You'll keep!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Beetroot

Is POR15 a primer topcoat all in one deal?
Looks like there are a few options from them, like a direct to rust and etch primer options.

---

No you must top coat POR15 where as Hammerite is ok without a top coat. both are good but don't get POR on your skin it stains.

I am mechanically moving the majority of the rust and have got rust converter I'll use where I can't reach.

I'll start looking at some local paint places and see what they've got.

Seriously consider whether it's worth the effort or better just to sell or make a new one, you'll never get all of the rust, especially what's on the inside of the tubes.

I haven't seen so can't really judge.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Savage1

Seriously consider whether it's worth the effort or better just to sell or make a new one, you'll never get all of the rust, especially what's on the inside of the tubes.

I haven't seen so can't really judge.

---

I had wanted to make a new one, but due to lack of facilities deemed it easier to buy one and modify/fix to meet requirements. Its 5mx2.4m and building one from scratch wasn't likely to happen as much as i had wanted too.

Rust isn't too bad, looks like someone in the past has just tried to paint over old rust, so the paint in now bubbly and horrible. But starting to look better now. But agree that the inside of the tubes are likely to not be pretty.

As Pengy said, Resene used to do a 2-pack mix called Aquapoxy or some such
The clear version is used as an anti-graffiti paint and is really good and hard as a schoolboy in a brothel - last time I used it on a vehicle chassis it went straight over the galv primer as I wasn't fussy about colour - had some left over so coated my picks, shovels etc and it damn well lasts

Wear breathing gear when applying

Couple of recommendations:
1. Rust converter dosen't go well on new or freshly ground steel, therefore, loosen up as much of the old flaky rust as possible using a chipping hammer [wear eye protection], then apply the converter, and then, if there are areas you want to grind, do so after doing the rust conversion, therefore any pitting you don't grind off will already be rust converted and wont bubble your paint.
2. If you have open RHS runners which have rust inside, weld end caps on all but 1 end, put 1 [or more] litres of oil into the runners and then weld on the last end cap. The oil will slosh around in the sealed environment and prevent further corrosion. Best to pour the oil in via a funnel and a piece of garden hose with the trailer on a lean so that the steel around the last weld cap is clean and oil free for weld quality and fire risk management.
3. As above, ring Altex and get their recommendation on the paint system to use.

What is epoxy enamel paint?
I thought epoxy was always a 2 part paint/adhesive, but I'm seeing "epoxy enamel" paints that are all in one.

Is it just a marketing name to try and make an enamel paint sound as tough as a 2 part epoxy?

Altex supply products for most power station penstocks internal and external.
Expected life 15 years or so.