Thread: Bahco Knives

Originally Posted by Friwi

I have bought a Swedish one last weekend at placemaker in Hamilton. Quite a few left.

Town or terapa peacemakers?

Silly question. How do you quickly tell the difference between the Swedish and chinese ones? Are they marked as such?

Originally Posted by csmiffy

Silly question. How do you quickly tell the difference between the Swedish and chinese ones? Are they marked as such?

@csmiffy yes they are marked with place of manufacture. It would be amusing if after all this hassle we were to find out the chinese ones are better!

@csmiffy The Chinese ones are individually plastic shrink wrapped

@The bomb, it was placemaker in town

I got 2 of the swedish ones today in town they only had 2 left but had heaps of Chinese ones

Yeah, I find the same - Victory knives are good but aren't tough. The Bahco is a bit more of a piss off to sharpen, but once it is sharp it's good for a lot longer without touch ups. I have learned not to go near a Bahco with any form of steel - diamond hones only.

That's interesting...try changing your steeling angle. My work mate has been getting me to sharpen his knives and it had me buggered how they got so blunt. Once I chucked out his draw through tool much better but they keep coming back with huge rounded shoulders...then I saw him use steel. It's my firmly held belief that your knife should just about lay down against the steel when stroking it. (The back edge of blade closer to steel) You are after all just trying to restraighten the tiny bent bits on very edge of blade. If your knife is at closer to right angles to steel you are rubbing the sharp bit off. The only way I can discribe that is with hand flat curl tips of fingers over....that's a worked full blade.by steeling you are unrolling fingertips back straight again.

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

That's interesting...try changing your steeling angle. My work mate has been getting me to sharpen his knives and it had me buggered how they got so blunt. Once I chucked out his draw through tool much better but they keep coming back with huge rounded shoulders...then I saw him use steel. It's my firmly held belief that your knife should just about lay down against the steel when stroking it. (The back edge of blade closer to steel) You are after all just trying to restraighten the tiny bent bits on very edge of blade. If your knife is at closer to right angles to steel you are rubbing the sharp bit off. The only way I can discribe that is with hand flat curl tips of fingers over....that's a worked full blade.by steeling you are unrolling fingertips back straight again.

Pretty much what I've been doing - I got a good old skool Cambrian steel (one of the fine cut ones). Even that didn't do it, just left it like a kids toy knife... Using a diamond hone works if it's handled with care but you have to be careful with it. The Scary Sharp deals with the bulk sharpening, and a few licks with the fine diamond hone and it's shaving sharp. Stays that way for a considerable time too, but not with a steel anywhere near it that's for sure.

Any decent sheaths u can use with these knives? Do those small victory ones fit the bahco?

Originally Posted by No.3

Pretty much what I've been doing - I got a good old skool Cambrian steel (one of the fine cut ones). Even that didn't do it, just left it like a kids toy knife... Using a diamond hone works if it's handled with care but you have to be careful with it. The Scary Sharp deals with the bulk sharpening, and a few licks with the fine diamond hone and it's shaving sharp. Stays that way for a considerable time too, but not with a steel anywhere near it that's for sure.

The bahcos are pretty high in chromium, which makes them a bit more wear resistant. They run a bit harder than victory too.

The old steel straightens the edge thing is a bit of a wives tale at this point, a steel can straighten the edge, but rolled edges arent actually that common, and usually they are just broken off rather than pushed back to center anyway.

A steel sharpens like any other hone, by removing a small amount of steel to reset the apex. Steels are just the least aggressive, especially the smooth ones. For maximum effectiveness A hone should be used at a slightly higher angle than the normal edge to create a micro bevel and reset edge geometry. This will take the least amount of time and work to bring the knife back to sharp again

Originally Posted by Nick-D

The bahcos are pretty high in chromium, which makes them a bit more wear resistant. They run a bit harder than victory too.

The old steel straightens the edge thing is a bit of a wives tale at this point, a steel can straighten the edge, but rolled edges arent actually that common, and usually they are just broken off rather than pushed back to center anyway.

A steel sharpens like any other hone, by removing a small amount of steel to reset the apex. Steels are just the least aggressive, especially the smooth ones. For maximum effectiveness A hone should be used at a slightly higher angle than the normal edge to create a micro bevel and reset edge geometry. This will take the least amount of time and work to bring the knife back to sharp again

The harder the knife steel the finer the sharpening steel should be. Otherwise it just chatters along the edge.
As shepherds we used to hone our new sharpening steels down on a brick.

Originally Posted by Tahr

The harder the knife steel the finer the sharpening steel should be. Otherwise it just chatters along the edge.
As shepherds we used to hone our new sharpening steels down on a brick.

Did you ever farm with Jethro Tull. LOL.

Originally Posted by Nick-D

The bahcos are pretty high in chromium, which makes them a bit more wear resistant. They run a bit harder than victory too.

The old steel straightens the edge thing is a bit of a wives tale at this point, a steel can straighten the edge, but rolled edges arent actually that common, and usually they are just broken off rather than pushed back to center anyway.

A steel sharpens like any other hone, by removing a small amount of steel to reset the apex. Steels are just the least aggressive, especially the smooth ones. For maximum effectiveness A hone should be used at a slightly higher angle than the normal edge to create a micro bevel and reset edge geometry. This will take the least amount of time and work to bring the knife back to sharp again

Interesting vid about honing steels
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y4ReQ83CZOQ

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

That's interesting...try changing your steeling angle. My work mate has been getting me to sharpen his knives and it had me buggered how they got so blunt. Once I chucked out his draw through tool much better but they keep coming back with huge rounded shoulders...then I saw him use steel. It's my firmly held belief that your knife should just about lay down against the steel when stroking it. (The back edge of blade closer to steel) You are after all just trying to restraighten the tiny bent bits on very edge of blade. If your knife is at closer to right angles to steel you are rubbing the sharp bit off. The only way I can discribe that is with hand flat curl tips of fingers over....that's a worked full blade.by steeling you are unrolling fingertips back straight again.

Small gains or what you should have been doing ages ago. It does make a difference. Some things stare you in the face and you never recognise it. The benefit of the Forum. Some one always has a bit of knowledge to add to the knowledge pile.