Did you use a T6 screwdriver and undo the flange that the battery tube screws into?Quote:
Originally Posted by GMH72
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Did you use a T6 screwdriver and undo the flange that the battery tube screws into?Quote:
Originally Posted by GMH72
I would like to say I used that screwdriver but I don't think I did looking at one of the screws, bit of an amateur :oh noes: But yes I did undo it...Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
Mate did his earlier and broke the screws. There seems to be a few issues that are adding up to cause the problem. We've made a few notes and been in contact with that factory and should have a solution very shortly.Quote:
Originally Posted by GMH72
+1 gadget's comment above.
The first batch of M24s was superb - high performance and pretty much zero problems - sold out very quickly. Police love them also. However after hearing of some issues affecting Blakelie/GMH72 the kiwi boys have pulled some sample lights down and found a small production glitch with second production run which could possible cause intermittent running.
We've sent them notes and they're doing the wee change. My guess is they outsource the actual manufacture of torch components eg tubes, and for the second production run the supplier made the tubes 1.5mm too long, and the tiny screws are also 2mm too long - both inhibiting proper contact and causing intermittent fault. Very hard to pick the fault was there. Fortunately they listen, they've responded immediately and nailed it quick.
On our recommendation they've withdrawn the M24 from sale till its 100%. Lights be available again in few days.
Now try and get that kind of service from a local supplier :D
See I did this while trying to change out my batteries and it fixed it so I continued using it, but it was a bit intermittent.
Using Trustfire Batteries, and not checking them with voltmeter but will from now
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
The extra long threading on the battery tube pushes the circuit board away from the flange (that is where the negative/earth contact for the board is) and the screws being 2mm too long gives enough space for it to move.Quote:
Originally Posted by specweapon
@Josh
Huge thank you for lending me your torch as that helped us find the problem and solutions very quickly. Yours is now sorted and de-domed and on its way back to you.
Nice work :thumbsup:
Anyone else with trouble feel free to send them to me as they are very quick and easy to fix. Will de-dome in the process if wanted.
If you have a T6 screwdriver and a file the fix is easy. Unscrew the battery tube then unscrew the flange that it screws into with the T6. File the screws down from 6mm to about 4mm, I cleaned them up afterwards by running through an M2x0.4 die. Then file about 1mm off the end of the battery tube that screws into the flange, this stops the battery tube being wound in too far and pushing the circuit board away from the flange that provides the negative contact.
There are a bunch of new screws coming and the T6 screwdrivers are $4 at Mitre10. Not sure if the new screws are 1.5mm Hex or T6; will keep you posted.
http://i844.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps042f90f5.jpg
Do I dismantle in the same way if I want to dedome??
No. Undo the bezel on the front and remove the lens and reflector. Pry up the white board in the bottom (undo screws on the models where used) and unsolder the wires to remove the board. De-dome by whatever method you desire and put it all back together. Remove the white nylon round the LED if you are going to apply heat for de-doming and carefully replace it once de-domed.Quote:
Originally Posted by SiB
I had trouble with mine last time i used it and pulled it down thinking it was something like this but it seemed ok once i refitted everything. I might have another look. Mine was screwed together with 1.5mm hex.
That sounds like one of the originals that were fine. How long you had it?
I hereby nominate Brian (gadget) for a good bugger award for the numerous dedomes, people's f-up repairs, and odd maxtoch production errors he fixes. Well done!
Woah, back this shit right up. I sent my torch to you, you fixed it and dedomed it for free, and I'M getting thanked?! :wtfsmilie:Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
You're a legend mate, thanks so much for getting my torch back up and running (and dedoming!)
ordered mine in may.
Should be all good then. Make sure you keep the threads clean and everything is done up.Quote:
Originally Posted by blair993
@gadgetman.
I'm being careful and trying to avoid a fubar.
Lens n bezel off. White disc exposed no screws n two short wires soldered on.
Do I desolder in situ or is there some play in those wires n I pull out a little first?
I then soak the removed led disc in petrol right??
Just wanting to get it right and figuring there'll be one or two others wondering if they shld or shldnt attempt!
Tx. Si
Yes there is play on those wires and you do want to lift it as you de-solder otherwise the huge heat sinking of the head will overwhelm your attempts. I only soak in petrol if the dome is too hard or there is a little bit of the dome material left on the LED surface. If left in petrol too long it will dissolve the phosphorous surface.
Ok....
So what's the best way to dedome pls? Mine looks to be on solid.
I'd assumed the gas soak for 2-3 mins max?
Seeing as it's "20 questions for Gadgetman" time, what voltage should they be when fully charged? I know they're rated at 3.7v, but think I read somewhere that charged should be around 4.2v?Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
Have been having issues with decreased runtime with the M24, but not sure if it's the torch, the batteries, or the new charger (i4) I got at the same time. :O_O:
Usually takes a few hours. I prefer to add heat from under the board until you feel the dome soften then gently lift the dome off from the side opposite the wires inside. 95% of the time it comes off extremely cleanly. I have plenty of spare LED's if it goes pear shaped.Quote:
Originally Posted by SiB
Rotate the board a little then pry it up. It will be forming a vacuum under it with the heat sink compound.
Yes fully charged they should be 4.2V or very close to it. If the runtime is reducing it is normally the batteries.Quote:
Originally Posted by StrikerNZ
Cheers Gadget, will have a poke around and see how it's looking. :)
I've got a stack of basic chargers and batteries and they seem to work very well.
I'm going to owe you a beer @gadgetman.
Dedomed using heat. Re soldered. Went for a second then no go. I'm getting 4.5v at the wires. Is it possible I've cooked the led or a dry joint? Don't want to re solder if harmful etc
And I'm trying to attach pic whilst on my iPhone 5 n I've reached my technological limit!
May have broken those fine gold wires. 4.5V would indicate it has gone open circuit.
Ok. I think the led is no go. I'm getting 7v on the +ve and -ve symbols on the led board. Bugger. It looked so easy.... @gadgetman can I post u the front end pls? Pm me your address if you happy to help. I'm so grateful. .... and embarrassed I stuffed it up!
Open circuit........ I hate that phrase...... I know it's a polite way of saying there was a f... Up
PM inbound.
More common when someone hasn't flicked on a switch.Quote:
Originally Posted by SiB
Which model is this an issue with?Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
M24 from 1st Aug onwards. With the screws being slightly too long that extra bit just pushed the circuit board away from the electrical contact. With shorter screws would likely be OK but I'm filing the tube slightly shorter too.Quote:
Originally Posted by thejavelin
cheers - good to know.Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgetman
In last three years we've developed 4-5 designs with Maxtoch. Developments on the original SN6X-2, a model 2S which was excellent, a bigger model 2X which is also great - troublefree, and the M24 scope and/or handheld spottie light. First batch of M24s came out maybe four months ago and were high performance and super reliable - they sold stacks into NZ but were also picked up by police forces so production run sold out v quick. Maxtoch then did second production run of M24 from 1 August this year and the first 4-5 weeks of this M24 run had the glitch. All fixed now over there but a few arrived in NZ. If your lights were ordered pre 1 August you're likely fine.
People mention odd light issues with us from time to time but reality is almost all are due to the following:
* low quality, low mAh, or defective batteries causing poor runtimes. Sometimes one of a pair is defective - hard to track down.
* failing charger. Crap batts or charger = poor runtime.
* dirty or greased/oiled contacts causing loss of conductivity. Don't oil threads except with touch of CRC.
* or perhaps tail switch working loose over time.
Being electronic systems its good to do a careful thread/contact clean from time as routine maintenance. A little wet and dry on tube end contacts from time to time. Also check switches firmly in tailcap, and make sure you don't use cheap crap batts - will not do well in maxtochs with XML leds. Also occasionally clean AR (antireflective) lens with fine optical cloth. A wee bit of maintenance and thought keeps them running v well for years.
Since we're on the topic of Maxtoch - do they have any decent small general use AAA or AA torches? The sort that would fit in the palm of your hand, or a little bit bigger.
No point, 18650's have a much greater energy density. Something like an x2000 or 501b I find are much more useful.Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh