22lr Cleaning Regime?? + my cleaning results

I've heard a lot of different stories of having to clean after XXX rounds and between ammo changes for target orientated rifles but I have never been bothered. I was wondering if anyone has any 1st hand experience/results (preferably with photos) to show results of increased accuracy before and after cleaning? How many rounds in between cleans? And are there any recommended products to clean with to get rid of any residual lube?

I've never really been into cleaning me 22's but recently did a full clean with patches etc and though I'd share the results.
Attachment 134514
Attachment 134515
It seemed to take around 2x 5shot groups before it settled down and I didn't seem to see any noticeable change in accuracy. I've probably put close to 1000x rounds down the tube and 15-20 different flavours through it without cleaning. This kind of leads me to believe it may not be worth cleaning at all?

most .22lr ammo is wax coated so the bore doesnt need cleaning...the rest of rifle does....had an old single shot remington (should never have sold it) that wouldnt group at all after barrel was cleaned untill about 20 rounds had been through it....thar same rifle used to get a build up of unburnt powder if it wasnt oiled and every now and then would give me a black face and hell of a fright....shot thousands of animals with it over the years.

looks like yours likes to be shot dirty. I shoot rimfires dirty, I clean when accuracy falls off.

Rust is what kills most 22s due to the commonly held belief that "you dont need to clean a 22"

Doesnt really apply to target shooters more the hunters 22 that gets put away and might be a few years till its next dusted off.

I recently brought a externally great condition 1971 Model 54 heavy barreled action for the action at a very nice price

Got it to work, stuck the bore scope in it & was very impressed how clean it was

I was very unimpressed with the extensive amount of deep rust pitting in the complete length of the bore, you can just see the lands in some areas

The barrel appeared to be completed shagged & not even worth firing

As I had nothing to lose I chucked it in a stock I had from a 1970 Model 54 that I had re-barreled & stocked, mounted a competition Nightforce on it & shot it

Unbelievably it shoots incredibly well, at this stage it isn't worth sticking a new barrel on it as it is extremely unlikely to shoot any better,

Can't help thinking how good it would have shot new

Just finishing building a bench rest stock for it at the moment, modified an old blank I had lying around from my 416 Barrett years ago

https://i1004.photobucket.com/albums...pstabchdoz.jpg

Nearly ready for oiling

https://i1004.photobucket.com/albums...psanf43a2u.jpg

Currently plenty of time to do it

@Kiwi Greg Do you think that was from cleaning, not oiling properly and then not using it for years? I would have though the lube on the projectile would be enough to stop any rust forming?

I felt what was happening with mine after cleaning was the wax was filling back in the gaps /grooves etc....

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Originally Posted by suthy

@Kiwi Greg Do you think that was from cleaning, not oiling properly and then not using it for years? I would have though the lube on the projectile would be enough to stop any rust forming?

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I have no idea its nearly 40 years old, it has a huge amount of rust pitting in it

Its actually in very good condition for its age everywhere else except inside the bore, the most important bit.....

I had both my 22s start throwing fliers a year or so ago, they both went from .5" groups or less at 40m to barely being able to hold an inch.
After giving them both a good clean the accuracy came back to normal.

Your average 22 that gets used for shooting a few rabbits and possums a night could go years without accuracy dropping off.
Me shooting around 500 shoots a month meant cleaning was required a every 3 or 4 months.

I've found a dirt suppressor can have a big impact of accuracy, cleaning every 500-1000 rounds is a must for my DPT.

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Originally Posted by Kiwi Greg

I have no idea its nearly 40 years old, ..

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That was 10 years ago.

"I recently brought a externally great condition 1971 Model 54 "

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Originally Posted by Ultimitsu

That was 10 years ago.

"I recently brought a externally great condition 1971 Model 54 "

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:thumbsup: you are so right, my maths can be quite average from time to time...

Just had a look down a light weight barreled 70 Model 54, very little rust at all, barrel ,looks in good nick, shoots Eley Black & Tenex very well

Blueing is a little brown rather than black

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Originally Posted by muzza

semis need cleaning a lot more than bolt guns . Each gun is different , and some ammo is far dirtier than others

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remington and aguila 22 ammo is filthy burning. ok in bolts/levers etc but in a semi, never again

Attachment 151883Just brought a old school BRNO 581, whats the best way to clean the barrels ( given limited access from chamber) thanks in advance.

Looks worn-out from photo's, give you $50 for it... and a dozen beers

rule 1 of semi auto 22 is no remington ammo, its filthy stuff

Attachment 152056

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Originally Posted by gonetropo

remington and aguila 22 ammo is filthy burning. ok in bolts/levers etc but in a semi, never again

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yea i brought these and barrel really grubby

There are a few old anschutz 1407 and similar in club safes with fine rust all over now.
How long does the wood stay good ? Few had bedding compound in the day.

I would have thought the wax would be burnt out by the powder flame . Surely that must be an myth ? Sure wax builds up around the bolt and action but in the bore it must be just carbon fouling.

Very interesting to see your groups suthy specially the first shot cold clean.
You should re post them on gimp’s accuracy challenge thread.

Three runs with a bore snake, third run with a bit of oil on the end of the snake, that"s it.

I spoke with a rabbit shooter that was in looking for a barrel for his 1022 that he had shot out.
about cleaning he said he used 2stroke mixed petrol and that cleaned the build up and left a oily residue when the petrol evaporated off
probably not fancy enough for target shooting but for a good ol working pooger 1022 sounded like a good idea to me

I had to clean the wax out of my marlin bolt recently, CCI subs have so much wax some of the bullets come stuck together :D bad batch? Anyway she didn't like a fast extraction of unfired round, cleaned the wax out of the lands area and all go Geronimo!

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Originally Posted by Three O'Three

Three runs with a bore snake, third run with a bit of oil on the end of the snake, that"s it.

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This, with some BoreTech Rimfire Blend on the bronze brush part o the snake.

The only time I’ve ever cleaned a 22 was when I got my father in laws Norinco. Broke it apart to tidy it up and it never shot the same again. Don’t think I ever saw Dad clean his 22s when I was growing up either lol.

I started with a Gevarm semi auto and used it heaps – hard to clean it so I didn’t bother – once it went auto and cleaned out the mag - so I sold it and got a bolt action Bruno – that didn’t last long and I tossed up between a Bruno semi and a Unique semi – chose the Unique. It often doesn’t recycle sub-sonic – so maybe a lack of cleaning.

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Originally Posted by Arthur McBride

I don't clean a .22 unless it has got wet or something. My old man told me a hundred years ago that the wax on a .22 bullet protects the bore enough, and he seems to have been right. I have seen a lot of really old .22's still with good bores. (Seen some bad ones too, but they may have been rained on...or cleaned.)

Someone told me that when you change ammo brands, that you have to coat the bore with the new wax lube, so I shoot five rounds of a new brand of ammo into the bank before I shoot a group or sight it in. I don't know if this is true or not, but it seems to be true so I continue to do it.

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' My old man told me a hundred years ago'... the lead up to the Great Depression in 1929 must have been hell. Was ammo difficult to come by?

Never understood why rimfires are treated differently from a centrefire. The bore may not come under the same stress or exposure to contaminants, but they are made from the same materials, not fairy dust and magic. Too much cleaning or bad cleaning practices will damage them just like a centrefire, but rust doesn't discriminate. If I give my rimfire a good clean, it does throw the zero off for a few shots. Same with my centrefires.

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Originally Posted by mimms2

Hard copper jacketed projos at 2500+ vs soft lead, copper and wax coated at 1200...

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Rain and mud.

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Originally Posted by MB

Never understood why rimfires are treated differently from a centrefire. The bore may not come under the same stress or exposure to contaminants, but they are made from the same materials, not fairy dust and magic. Too much cleaning or bad cleaning practices will damage them just like a centrefire, but rust doesn't discriminate. If I give my rimfire a good clean, it does throw the zero off for a few shots. Same with my centrefires.

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People tend to shoot further distances than what the 22 round was intended for. This stresses the metal and causes it to hair line crack at the muzzle. A fine coating of talcum powder at the muzzle will soon reveal the cracks.

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Originally Posted by outlander

People tend to shoot further distances than what the 22 round was intended for. This stresses the metal and causes it to hair line crack at the muzzle. A fine coating of talcum powder at the muzzle will soon reveal the cracks.

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Wut.

What? You just aim it up higher to go further?

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Originally Posted by Gibo

What? You just aim it up higher to go further?

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that's exactly what causes the cracking...:o