I have a Browning Gold hunter with a stuck choke, real stuck. Any one with ideas on how to remove. Yes it's been to a gunsmith and nah still stuck.
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I have a Browning Gold hunter with a stuck choke, real stuck. Any one with ideas on how to remove. Yes it's been to a gunsmith and nah still stuck.
Which gunsmith?? I had some stock work done by Dollimore a few years ago. He removed a stuck choke at the same time which another gunsmith couldn’t budge. He’s local to you so may be worth a nudge.
Was Rob. Great gun smith but this one a bit to stuck for even him. So don't fancy my chances of a removal unless there some miracle.
Leave the choke end of the barrel in a container of oil / penetrating oil for a day or two and try again. Warm up the barrel with a few shots and try while hot. A few rapid heating / cooing cycles to break the grip on the threads.
Whys it stuck? leave it outside?
Dose it in Kroil and leave it standing a while. Kroil is a wicking oil that creeps into microscopic tolerances.
Maybe do a rapid fire of 15 shots then try and unscrew it
If it is soo stuck, does it need to come out ? Would sooner leave it than mangle it.
Penetrating oil, then heat the outside of the barrel and try again preferably with a sharp impact. If not sucessful try tightening it then back the normal, way that often loosens a siezed thread. Next time dont confuse the locktite with lithium grease (-:
Apply whatever product you use whilst the barrel end is warm
going to try PB Blaster as my penetrating oil, have heated up the end with a blow torch :thumbsup: Tomorrow I will try and move it with a easy out.
do not use an easy out , on a thin wall choke it will expand it outwards and do more damage. you can buy an aerosol can from engineering supplies that can freeze metal with its spray, i would heat the outside gently then spray inside the choke to shrink it after soaking in penetrating oil, then try undoing it.
GA you are missing the obvious! Vice, hacksaw, sorted. Ha ha ha ha
@muzza my suggestion is similar to your last idea. worst case scenario is the last option I have to do when a bolt is broken in something and I have to heat, bash etc. it out. Get a dremel with a set of stones/carbides and slowly and gently cut a groove down the length of the choke until you can just barely see the top of the threads. Do his on both sides if you have too. As an added bonus you could then leave it soak for a little bit longer but I'd give it a crack at first trying to turn it and then with something pointy try to collapse the choke in on it self.
It can relieve the pressure on the threads which at a guess are probably rusted in
GA try to get a product called Pentron, goes under some other gay name now, about $30 an aerosol can, you won’t get a better penetrating oil. Bay Eng sell it, I could courier a can to you.
if all else fails price a rethreading .....I mean back when steel came here many shotguns had fixed choke reamed out,others got lopped off and threaded for new screw in chokes...someone must still carry the dies to thread barrels you might loose what 1" overall length. Ive seen threads just like this on every forum ever visited,most guys get it sorted with good soaking....my big bro used can of diesel for a week.
If all else fails do a tig run the length of the choke,cools down comes out finger tight.
A gentle ‘shock’ pull with the choke tool (as opposed to a steady pull) might help too
will biff the easy out idea.
nah fuked it, oh well out with the hacksaw.
Its ok to feck the choke. Did you feck the barrel as well?
feked the barrel.
Briley thin-walled choke will be your friend.....Brian Thomson is the NZ agent and will sort you out.
yeah nah...personally I would go extended external jobbie.......the risk of a repeat is lessoned and you gain back a wee tad of length.....
Yeah nah yeah.....Briley thinwalled extended or flush. Either way, Briley thinwalled have the lowest minimum barrel wall thickness requirement in the market when it comes to retrofits. The 10 thou (or more) difference between them and a Carlson or TruChoke is significant.
OK so it’s the end of the day. Your home from hunting. First thing you do is clean your gun?
Take those chokes out guys. Unless you want the above. Give them a small wipe of oil out even better crc soft seal to the threads.
If you leave them in then it’s only a matter of time before the above.
@csmiffy post is how I’ve seen my gun maker take them out.
Sorry your in the line for new tubes @Gapped axe hind sight suxs ah:(
nah not really, I'm just back where I began, after Dolie has finished the gun will be just 20mm shorter. The improved cylinder choke can stay, I was going to put one of those Pattern Masters on it. When I brought the gun I brought the problem. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
yup and Doli did it for free
Back in the day years ago before I went to Oz and actually went shooting in the rain etc, I heard horror stories about stuck chokes, rusted in etc.
Being the good fitter I thought I was I came up with the cunning plan to use a light smear of copper coat on the choke.
Works a treat, its slightly greasy, transfers onto the next choke a bit and I'm not worried about the choke coming undone as there is always a little grab on the thread.
its been in there for 20 years now in some horrid weather and many hundreds of shots through it so I will keep doing so.
dare I say it mine has vaso on it.....seems to work ok in tight spaces.....
Copper coat is good stuff. Lasts forever.
Copper coat is good stuff. Lasts forever. Caso only lasts 5min max.: thumbsup:
I live in fear of the "stuck choke" disease so my Trap Gun is stored minus chokes. The choke in my 870 however is un-removable so there it shall stay
Not wanting to thread hijack, but who actually bothers changing chokes. I think I’ve moved mine twice on two different guns. Duck gun has imp cyl in it, and only comes out to be cleaned, never run anything different. Then again, I’m a pretty rubbish duck shooter...